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-   -   Okay, now what? (sperry's motor tear-down thread) (https://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6121)

knucklesplitter 2008-02-28 04:24 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry (Post 115158)
Speaking of lung conditions, how's that welding going on that MAF bung?

Speaking of MAF bungs (and thread tangents), I got the 08+ MAF *Flanges* in the other day. They sho' are purty.

sperry 2008-02-28 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklesplitter (Post 115167)
Speaking of MAF bungs (and thread tangents), I got the 08+ MAF *Flanges* in the other day. They sho' are purty.

Oooh... shiny machined parts.

MPREZIV 2008-02-28 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 100_Percent_Juice (Post 115162)
^See Scott. It only takes 76 pounds of down force.

Put a "1" in front of that, then multiply by the amount of leverage given with a 3.5' pry bar.

OH, and just 'cause you're fat doesn't mean I'm too skinny... :P

100_Percent_Juice 2008-02-28 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry (Post 115166)
I think you misunderstand the way a lever works. ;)

I misunderstand how a lever works? This is coming from the guy who can't bust the ball joint loose from the LCA.:rolleyes:

SteveM 2008-02-29 08:29 AM

I just remembered my ball joint puller is not buried in storage like I thought. If you need it I'll be in Reno all weekend and can bring it with me.

Double Phister 2008-02-29 02:22 PM

Pastafarians unite!

OK, Scott I have two sizes of pickle forks if you still need to use it. Or just go borrow the tools from Autozone or equal.

AtomicLabMonkey 2008-03-02 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sybir (Post 115133)
Pickle forks work. What works better (no shit) is whacking the side of the control arm with a mallet while prying it a bit. I was skeptical too, until I did it. The impact pops the ball joint right out.

This is the way we did it on the Mustangs to remove ball joints or tie rod ends, but we didn't even bother prying. Go get the biggest goddamned sledgehammer you can find, guzzle an energy drink & a protein bar, and hit the BJ receiver/steering arm on the spindle like you're trying to break it. The impacts knock the joint loose within a few hits.

wrxkidid 2008-03-02 06:17 PM

I was just gonna say you could bring it over her so you could put it on the lift to get a better angle at it.

Then I realized why that wouldn't work :lol:

sperry 2008-03-02 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxkidid (Post 115257)
I was just gonna say you could bring it over her so you could put it on the lift to get a better angle at it.

Then I realized why that wouldn't work :lol:

Actually, at this rate, it'll be faster to get a big battery for the winch on the trailer than it will be to get the car running.

I didn't get anything done this weekend on the car... I was too busy acid etching and epoxy sealing the new garage floor. :cool:

wrxkidid 2008-03-02 11:52 PM

Isn't that a blast.

i love the smell of acid etching in the morning.

:lol:

sperry 2008-03-03 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrxkidid (Post 115264)
Isn't that a blast.

i love the smell of acid etching in the morning.

:lol:

I will *never* epoxy another garage floor.

Yesterday, after washing it (aka scrubbing 700sqft with a broom 3 times over), then etching it (aka scrubbing 700sqft with a broom 3 times over, again), then realizing that there's still a fuckton of acid still coming up when I hose the garage off (aka scrubbing 700sqft with a broom 3 times over, a third time)... and still seeing the acid again (aka scrubbing 700sqft with a broom 3 times over, for the fourth time), I finally gave up and figured, either the stuff will stick or it won't and I went to bed.

Today I painted that stuff and sprinkled my sprinkles (never mind the midday trip to 3 Home Depots to find the last garage floor epoxy kit in Reno after realizing part-way through I was going to run a gallon short). It took a long time, but wasn't nearly as tiring as the scrubbing was.

All I know is, I'm into this floor for like $500 in materials (epoxy kits are $99 each, I needed three of them, plus the concrete cleaner, the acid, the buckets, rollers, brushes, tape, and one SRIC hoodie that may need to be relegated to garage use only now). Compared to $3000 for the cost of having the pros do it with the high grade industrial stuff. I'm paying the extra $2500 next time. Especially since if the floor starts coming up when I park sticky race tires on it, they'll warranty it.

wrxkidid 2008-03-03 01:51 AM

It sounds like you did a good job of it. It took that many scrubs to get the acid out? damn we did it once and had no acid. What kind of brook were you using? I used a real corse one designed for etching type stuff and it made it a lot easier. I gave my friend who helped me the regular shop broom and he constantly complained about it.

Not to go off topic or anything. :lol:

SteveM 2008-03-03 07:59 AM

Ha! I spent the weekend doing the exact same thing in our new house. Didn't have that bad of a time with the acid either. Was it the citric acid that came with the kit? How could you tell the acid was still there? Mine seemed to rinse out with about two passes with hose and broom.

sybir 2008-03-03 09:38 AM

I just put down tiles, lol.
Evening of work, and done :D

sperry 2008-03-03 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sybir (Post 115271)
I just put down tiles, lol.
Evening of work, and done :D

Tiles cost twice as much as epoxy, and don't protect the floor from oil and water... it just leaks through the tiles.

sperry 2008-03-03 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveM (Post 115267)
Ha! I spent the weekend doing the exact same thing in our new house. Didn't have that bad of a time with the acid either. Was it the citric acid that came with the kit? How could you tell the acid was still there? Mine seemed to rinse out with about two passes with hose and broom.

I use the Rustoleum Professional garage floor epoxy kit (the acetone based stuff, not the water based one). It didn't come with any cleaner or acid, just the two part epoxy mixture.

I used Behr concrete cleaner/degreaser on my first washing, then Behr concrete etcher and rust remover on the second pass. The etcher is phosphoric acid. I wanted muriatic acid, but you can't even buy that stuff in NV anymore I guess. Stupid EPA.

sybir 2008-03-03 01:06 PM

I'm an asshole, I got tiles for free. Egan was tearing down a datacenter so I have a garage floor made of black non-skid antistatic 2x2 grids. Works well, cleans up well, and the seams are tight enough that there's not much of a liquid problem. I'll probably raise up a strip every few months and let it breathe just in case, though. I like 'em becuase I don't have to worry about tires pulling them up. Mops up nicely.

http://www.hooptywagon.com/img/garage/IMG_3513.JPG




I'm just glad to hear you have your garage going :D

SteveM 2008-03-03 01:31 PM

Ahh! I used the water based stuff. Now waiting for it to harden.

OK I'll stop clogging your thread with OT stuff now.

The Ball Joint remover offer still stands if you need it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry (Post 115280)
I use the Rustoleum Professional garage floor epoxy kit (the acetone based stuff, not the water based one). It didn't come with any cleaner or acid, just the two part epoxy mixture.

I used Behr concrete cleaner/degreaser on my first washing, then Behr concrete etcher and rust remover on the second pass. The etcher is phosphoric acid. I wanted muriatic acid, but you can't even buy that stuff in NV anymore I guess. Stupid EPA.


sperry 2008-03-03 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveM (Post 115283)
Ahh! I used the water based stuff. Now waiting for it to harden.

OK I'll stop clogging your thread with OT stuff now.

The Ball Joint remover offer still stands if you need it.

How's your garage looking? Mine looks lumpy and kinda flaky. I'm worried that it's been too cold to properly cure... I hope it doesn't take like 15 days to harden! I need to move my shit in there!

As far as the ball joint extractor, I think I could use it. When are you free? Can I come by and pick it up sometime?

SteveM 2008-03-03 03:47 PM

Scott, sent you a PM with contact info.

vic 2008-03-03 09:14 PM

when you get the ball joint tool try putting the castle nut partialy on then jack it up a bit with a bottle jack before hitting the bjt with a bfh. if that does'nt work try some heat on the lca and repeat.

sperry 2008-03-05 02:02 AM

Well, after 4 hours of dry humping, I finally got that g-damn input shaft to slam home in the clutch. It's not exactly bolted in all the way yet, but there's a fucking motor in my car as of 1:45 am today.

Also, I think I broke my previous record of using the F-word while working on my car tonight. At least I have all my fingers still.

Hey Van, do you want that engine lift back any time soon? Or if you'd rather not deal with it, I'll buy it off you for whatever you paid for it. Not that I plan to use it again anytime soon, but I figure you loaned it to me for so long, you might not have a space for it in your garage any longer. If you want it back, let me know what you want for letting me borrow it for 9 months! (Dear god, this motor took as long as a baby!?)

100_Percent_Juice 2008-03-05 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry (Post 115364)
(Dear god, this motor took as long as a baby!?)

You will probably break you record of using the F-word when you try to install an actual baby... But in a good way.:lol:

AtomicLabMonkey 2008-03-05 10:54 AM

Troof.

ScottyS 2008-03-10 11:18 AM

a motir doesnt make u type 1 handed.


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