No instructions of any kind were provided with these.

Ok, I need to find a way to dial out a bit of the bounce in these. They handle bumps ok, but they're oscillating down Carson st. It's a lot harsher than I expected, and gets a bit disorienting on the ride to and from work. My wife complains that she feels a bit motion-sick after a 20 minute ride. What can I do? Stronger damping? Softer? Will ride-height affect it at all with the springs pre-loaded as they are? Or should I drop the $400 that it will cost to have the steering rack bushings on my Eagle replaced? :P

I'm also gonna need to adjust the ride height some. The pre-set height on these gave me about 13.75 from wheel center to fender lip on the front, and only 13 on the rear! It's pretty low. :huh:

If it's actually oscillating, like continuing to rise and fall for more than 1 cycle after a bump input, then add more damping.

Yeah, more dampening.

I'll give it a shot. This seems to be the same thing that Scott was complaining about with his JIC coilovers - they just oscillate on the uneven roads here. I can actually see the front end bouncing slightly.

So I guess performance is supposed to feel like a ride on Star Tours? :D

Don't forget that having the car too low seems to make the bounce worse. At least that's what I noticed with the JIC's. If the front Lower Control Arms are lowered past horizontal, things seem extra bumpy.

Cory just came by and got a nice sturdy bolt stuck in there, so they're safe and solid for the time being.

We're gonna fiddle with the height and camber and get it aligned tomorrow before the meet. Hopefully fixing the height will take care of some of the bounce and the dampers will do the rest. Then everyone can have a look-see at Bully's, and Nick can have his ride :)

I think I just have bad luck with threaded items - bolts, screws, etc. I had a problem with the threads on my shift knob before getting it replaced, then this with the coilovers, and this morning we got our Xbox 360 demo unit in today, but one of the cheap little screws that holds the plastic shell in place stripped and now I can't get the system running until the MS rep comes by to replace it. :lol:

Sweet, I can't wait for my ride. I've gotta try to get away from the packing for a moment or two. Actually J, you could stop by my house on your way home from the meet, have some pizza, give me a ride, and maybe even help me throw a box into the uhaul. :lol:
What do you say?

I'll talk to you later.

Dude, I need to save my strength for my own move at the end of the month :P

Actually, I'd love to help if I didn't have to get up at 6AM to drive my wife to work.

Here's a question for the experienced coilover owners: since the height is adjustable independent of spring preload, what kind of adjustments to both might help smooth out the ride a bit?

You just need to keep the car off of the bump stops. Any ride height and spring strength that accomplishes that for the average road imperfection is enough. After that, it's damping that takes out the occilation. Handling is more complicated, but ride comfort is usually not with regard to ride height.

I had some serious over damping when I put the TEINs in. The ride was like I just took out the springs altogether, and installed blocks of wood! Now I have them set at, out of 22 possible adjustments, 11 rear and 14 front. Feels MUCH better! I think you can play around with the adjustments and be able to find a happy place.

We can reset the ride height tonight where you need it, and get it driving straight down the road again once we align it!

Frankly, I'm just glad we got that topmount put back together. *WHEW*

Motion sickness
 

My girlfriend gets sick and this was the solution.

Everything seems cool now. We got ride height at a decent level and things seem better. It still bounces a bit on the freeway at low damping levels, but it's smoother overall. I'll just have to play with damping to find an acceptable compromise.

Now all I need to do is pick up a set of camber bolts to finish off the rear alignment! :P

What alignment specs are you shooting for?

-1.0 rear, -1.5 front, no toe.

We started running out of time earlier tonight, so if I remember correctly, right now I'm running about -2.5 rear, -1.5 front. :P

That's roughly where I had my RS for like 3 years. Add a little toe-out front and a lot of toe-out rear, and you get a car that loves to turn without breaking loose at either end. :D

I do think that if we loosen those rear knuckle bolts, we can pull some of that rear camber out if you still want. I can't say how much though...

The camber correction bolts would def. help, but I'd be willing to try and see how much we can get without them.

I don't think you can get more than a couple points without the camber bolts.

^^^Yeah, not gonna get too much really, but closer for now if it's a worry of his, until he can buy camber bolts.
My rear camber didn't kick out as negative as his did when I put the TEINs in... Maybe just the manuf.?

By the way Cody, WTF is that new signature!!!???

The Eibach's drop such a slight amount, that I don't even need camber bolts to achieve the -1 camber I run in the rear. I bought them anyway though thinking I'd need them for the rear, and the alignment place installed them in the front. <_<

The quote is from here: http://www.4q.cc/chuck/

I've got a set of camber bolts I can sell you. $40 New in Box.

That works for me. Can I pick 'em up on thursday?

I think I'm gonna have to wait to finish the camber adjustment until I get my winter tires on, though. With as crazy busy as I'll be at work the next couple of weeks, I'll have to let it run "as-is" for a little while longer.