Yeah I'm a pretty novice installer but even I hammered out mounts, and a sway bar in the rear of my car in little over an hour.

What was the deal with the bolt? Maybe something on a new wagon that makes it harder?

That sucks it gave you so much trouble. It should be worth it though.

Sorry it was such a pain, but glad you got it in. Probably need to pick up a longer bolt and a new lock washer just to be safe...

Call Perrin (ask for Jeff :P ) and complain about the bolt thingy. If it's a fitment issue (wouldn't surprise me), they should know about it. If it's an installation error on your part, you probably want to know.

I got sent the wrong EGT sensor once and the connectors didn't fit right. I was about to cut the wires and use butt connectors but I emailed the vendor and they told me it was the wrong sending unit. Just a thought.

The right side is the hardest with that plastic box; but holy crap, I think mine took about an hour and a half. I don't remember re-using the stock bolts though. It sounds like that ate up most of your time.

When I did my rear sway bar months ago I had the same problem with the one rear bolt being too short. I ended up putting the stock bar back on so that I could drive to home depot and buy a longer bolt.

I ended up emailing perrin about it, and Jeff himself replied that they would start including a longer bolt with the kit. Either they decided not to bother, they just added the longer bolt for the STi kit, or you got a sway bar kit that has been sitting around at a shop somewhere for months.

I'm pretty sure mine had the longer bolt, because I don't even remember it being an issue with the only problem being access on the right side.

You didn't need to put the stock one back on just to drive down to the hardware store, just an FYI...

I know, I decided that I didn't want any grief from my insurance company if I had an accident and they realised it was missing. Although if I have an accident now and they realise I have a stiffer rear swaybar I guess that would be worse :)

Insurance companie's don't generally deny claims because of mods, as long as you haven't removed safety equipment. horse's mouth

I wonder if I can argue that a FMIC adds as much crash protection as the bumper beam that it replaced. :?:

I'm gonna go with...probably not.

Which is why I really need a truck and a trailer, so I can just register the WRX for off-road use only.

What a tangled web you weave.

The right side nut at the control arm has loosened twice. Guess it's time for some loctite. For now, I'm driving around with a 14 mm socket in the car. It sucks climbing under a wet/snowy under carraige.

Isn't that a nylock nut, or have a lock washer? If it isn't, I'd swap it for one instead of locktite.

I've used nylock bolts in the service but did not know about nylock nuts. Any idea were I could pick up nylock nuts, I'm totally sick of waiting for the next clunking noise. Thx-

Lowes, Home Depot

Me too. The Perrin Bumper Beam was so much beefier than the stock one.

Once you get some proper nuts also make sure you torque the bolt to factory spec, instead of just "gettin it tight" with the socket.

Proper nuts?, Isn't that a little personal.

I was refraining from going there...

Blue lock tight has done the trick for one day so far so good.

It's finally dry enofe to have a little fun. I'm still running the stock tires, but the understeer is GONE. I have not yet changed out the front bar and I don't know how much that will change stuff. I'm running the rear bar on the middle setting. What class do you think you'll be running in in April?

Is that a trick question?

Whatever class you want, as long as the rules are followed.

Not a trick question. I was responding to M3n2c3's question. Also, I believe he has many more modes planned and I did not know what class he was going to end up in. So I asked...