Yes.

And if you read the first post/page in that thread, you will see that installation is uber importante regardless of bearing! Ultra-Clean and dry to start combined with the right grease are critical. Non-Sulfur EP grease being the last critical piece.

The good news is that they're going to do the Nissan bearing and the Mobil-1 Synth. red grease. The bad news, they're charging me for 4 hours of labor. :unamused: Cory said it was 2 hours by the book and takes him one. :unamused: :unamused: :unamused:

Edit: Nevermind, Cory just texted me that the book does say 3.7 hours. :unamused:

No, I said I charge 2 hours 'cause I have no idea what the book says, but I know it's more than 2 hours and it doesn't take me nearly that long! Close enough tho... :D

Hey, I hear what I want to hear!

Car should be done tomorrow. They got the Nissan bearing using the SKF number that Dean has in the first post. Shop confirmed it has the metal cage instead of nylon like the OE part. They were 100% fine with using it and still honoring their guarentee, which kind of surprised me.

Here's another thread on this topic: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=FW105

I'm stll kind of nervous that so few people have reported back good results with the NTN part, much less the cross referenced SKF part, but nothing ventured nothing gained?

I didn't think any had a metal cage. Races are metal obviously, but cages are all plastic I think. That is why the Sulfurless grease is so important.

And if you read your thread, you will see what is printed on the box may not be what is in the box... :(

I would plan on doing the other side shortly!!! maybe when Cory has a slow day. Do not wait for it to fail as well.

So, Matt and I don't count? :P

Pretty sure I read that the Nissan ones have metal cages. Cory?

Matt and you used the SKF number to get the parts? The SKF and NTN parts do look slightly different, apparently.

From the first post in my second thread...

"EP greases often contain sulfur as an additive which has been proven to negatively affect the nylon retainers which are used in these bearings. The wrong EP grease can result in catastrophic failure."

Maybe I used the word cage incorrectly. If there is any Nylon, no Sulfur

The shop uses Mobil-1 Red Synthetic grease so no worries either way.

I think the cages on the bearings that went into Matt's car are metal.

We didn't use the SKF or the NTN part numbers to get the parts. We used the Nissan part number.

I think probably the biggest take away from the misc. threads is the lubrication. The stock mineral based lubricant just can't cut it at the track. New properly cleaned, dried and packed bearings with the EP stuff probably make more difference than which bearing you choose.

Cory, any chance you have one of those bearings on the parts shelf and can look to see if it has any other markings or numbers? Would just be interesting.

One of the other interesting comments was race teams just keeping built up spindles as spares so they can swap at the track. Pop the ball joint, tie rod, 2 strut bolts and slip out the axle... reverse. 5 minute job with the right tools/skills.

Hey Scott, what did you do with your 5x100 spindles? :)

True, Dean. I was very glad to hear that the shop will grease properly.

I'm thinking that I'll take my car in to Cory/Nissan to do the other side and then check the alignment since the camber bolts are removed to do the bearings. They're going to mark them and put them back in the best they can, but I'm a bit anal about my alignment.

Then learn to check it yourself in your own garage. :) I still take it out for major stuff, but check and make minor changes myself regularly. If nothing else, learning where it is after done professionally and the means to check it yourself later are worth knowing.

Not a bad idea. I just tend to trust certain things to the professionals but a double check sounds like a smart move.

BTW, just got news the hub was toast but Lithia had one in stock so it still should be done today. :)

Doubt it. I really have no idea what's in the parts dept. since I don't work in there, but I do recall having to order them for Matt.

Drove the car back from Fernley. The "Nissan Bearing" went in without issue. However, I'm experiencing at least two issues. Firstly, the car pulls to the left now. He said they marked the camber bolts (remember I have an aftermarket cam bolt in the bottom hole and OEM in the top) plus they marked the knuckle so the alignment shouldn't be an issue. The car is also way more "darty" which I assume means toe out. :unamused: Hopefully I can get the car in to have the other front bearing done soon and then get an alignment.

Secondly, the ABS engages right before coming to a stop. I feel the pedal pulse and go lower so I know it's the ABS. Hopefully I can simply clean some grease out of the ABS sensor and that fixes it. Remember the ABS light came on when I had the bearing failure at the track and Cory said it could be grease in the sensor or on the tone ring. I also still need to replace the rotor and probably pads. I'll probably just do pads on both corners since Kevin W hooked me up with a set.

Took the car to Cory today along with another FW105 bearing and some Mobil-1 Red Synthetic Grease. He immediately noticed (visually) that I had positive camber on the wheel that Auto Doc's had worked on. Those F'ers said they marked the camber bolts and the knuckle, but Cory said the camber bolt was installed all cockeyed... :unamused:

So I've got two new "Nissan Bearings" and a fresh alignment. Cory says it drives great! Gonna go pick it up now. W00t!

Wish you had taken some pictures of the bearing... Did you hang onto the box? Just wondering how it was labeled.

Check that the steering wheel is straight. Cory is known to be a little twisted. :)

The box was labled, FW105. But apparently that number has been superceeded to another number (FW 176?, I'll post it later) according to NAPA. I grabbed the FW105 from Kragen just to be safe but I probably have the superceded part on the other side anyway since that's where Auto Doc's bought the bearing (NAPA). They're probably identicle.

Hey Dean, I believe it should read CR1, not CRI, above.

And FW105 has been superceeded by FW176 according to NAPA. I probably have a FW176 on the left and I definintely have a FW105 on the right since that's how the box was labled.

Simply because it came up earlier, the bearing that went into the car yesterday had a nylon roller cage, not metal. And I still have no idea what the actual factory Nissan part has, because we don't have one in stock...

Napa is wrong, FW176 is not a superceed, it is the stock bearing and appears as a "substitute" on a cross reference for the FW105 which is the harder bearing.

You have one of each now, so you are our guinea pig. Please keep rack of all left and right turns, average G-load and duration should do so we can track actual loading over time until failure. :)

And no, it won't kill your car to have one of each.

Who knows what I have on the left side. Auto Doc's are a bunch of yahoos and I don't trust them any further than I can throw them.

Should have let me go load it in the trailer and take it to Cory. :P

Hey, I was wondering if this is still accurate or is there anything new i should know?

That's still accurate. You can order them from Nissan. I got at least one of mine from Kragen using the SKF part number. Napa tries to sell you the wrong one. I don't think they're that much more expensive through Nissan though. If you can wait a couple days for them to come in.

Repack the bearing with Mobil-1 Synthetic red grease, also available from Kragen.