Those are pretty common. I'm pretty sure I'd have something to fit in it's place.

Not that it's relevent to this thread, but +1. You definitely want to slot the stock header heat shield if you ever remove it. For example, after doing an UP, you need to get back in there after a heat cycle and retorque everything and you need to get that heat shield off to do that.

Those flange nuts have non-standard fine threads - M10x1.25 *maybe*. I doubt any hardware store would have them. subaru part #902370029

I used to have no problem finding the 1.25 thread pitch at Ace hardware... though the Ace near my house went out of business once the new Home Depot opened. :mad:

R and E Fastener is now closer to South Reno, on Rock Blvd. I know it's not right in your neighborhood, but stop be so grumpy. :monkey: That Ace was handy though, they always had the hardware that we needed.

It's hard to hit R&E Saturday at 8:30 pm when you need to get the car back together between events on a weekend. :(

This is true. RIP Ace.

there's a hardware store in carson , by the new 395 on ramp that has an amazing selection of Metric bolts, and metric Taps + die sets.

Crucial sent me all new stuff for the exhaust so I just used a few of the nuts I had off the stock exhaust. Thank you for all the suggestions though!

I finally got it on, if seems like after reaching operating temp and driving for awhile I get a leak. Can't tell if it's the dp/turbo or dp/mid. It's such a PITA jacking the car and removing everything to figure it out. :(

I'm not sure what the official sequence is, but this is how I try and keep the exhaust tight.

Work from the engine out... The first section doesn't really apply to you right now...

Finger tight headers and then cross pipe.
Tighten headers and then cross pipe.

(Start Here...)
Make sure 2 turbo mounting nuts are loose. These are the ones that hold the turbo to the bracket hanging off the engine, not the ones that hook to any exhaust parts. with these loose, the turbo should move freely with about 1/8"-1/4" total play.

Up-pipe to header bolts

Up-Pipe to Turbo bolts

Make sure the Turbo is happy sitting where it wants to on the up-pipe and then tighten the Turbo-bracket bolts.

Now keep working backwards along the exhaust.

There should never be torque on the mating surface you are working on if you want the gasket to seat and the bolts to torque correctly. Turbo-down-pipe is toughest as the damn pipe just hangs there. You have to jack up the back end to allow you to get that gasket seated well.

Tell me you didn't do that on urban rd. I always see cops over there.

Thanks Dean. I miss the real Air Force bases that had a auto hobby shop. $2/hour for a lift and any tools you need was so convienent. Now, jacking up the car is the hardest part.

That is in fact Urban lol. Trust me, I did a good scan of all thier normal posts before my attempts. Turns out I can hit 85 by the end with the help of the mighty brembos to stop me before plumas.

Oh wait... I mean, all filming was done in Mexico.

Take it to the track Brian Spliner. :unamused:

At least we have a perfect example of why we don't make new club stickers.

No kidding.

85 in a 25 zone, with other cars around. Gee, I wonder why Subaru drivers get such a bad name. :rolleyes:

Depends on who you ask I suppose. I know the road and people that live on it pretty well. It was a one time thing.

I don't know if you are serious or saying that because you are being sarcastic.

in other words that's what every person says.;)

you win

I've seen you drive. You've got a heavy foot.

Granny shifting, not double clutching when you should be.

Sorry man. Didn't mean to call you out.
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