Wait, is that the caliper slider pin? I thought you were talking about the bolt that holds the caliper to the knuckle.

I would just replace the whole damn pin and bolt if the bolt sheared off inside the pin.

This. That's a super easy fix, and those parts are cheap. I bought a set of them a season or two ago when I went with yarded calipers.

Reverse (aka left-handed) drill bits work well. They tend to extract the busted piece as they drill. Often an extractor is not even needed.

Metric hardware does not come in "grade 8" - that is a US grade. "8.8" is for regular applications. "10.9" is a higher grade and typical of engine and brake stuff (and roughly equivalent to US grade 8 ). "12.9" is even higher and is hard to find in anything but socket-head cap screw. Low grades like "5.8" are for very mundane stuff. The tensile and yield strength are proportional to the numbers, which actually mean something. With a 10.9 screw for instance, the "10" stands for a tensile strength of 10x 100MPa = 1,000 MPa, and the ".9" stands for a yield strength that is 0.9x the tensile strength or 900MPa.

I knew that metric hardware doesn't come in "Grade 8" but I couldn't remember the equivelent. Thanks for the explaino. :cool:

Yeah, i got a new set from autozone for $8.

When I broke an upper shock bolt during removal a couple weeks ago on my Cherokee, I ended up just drilling it out. I have never had any luck with screw/bolt extractors, they just break off too. I used left-handed drill bits, starting with a pretty small bit to get a center hole going. Then I enlarged the hole with 3 or 4 more successively bigger bits until there wasn't much of anything left in the threaded hole. After that I just pulled out the remaining chunks with the screwdriver/needle nose, cleaned up the threads, and was good to go.