Don't get me wrong, swapping pads can be done succesfully, even between brands, but at some point, you are likey to mess up and end up with uneven pad build up, and have to turn them theroghly and start over.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Read the rest of their tech papers, and you will know everything there is to know about brakes... :)

Why would I RTFM when I can just post my questions in all of your threads Dean?

Because some random thread <100, Scott, Kevin, Matt, Austin, and anyone else we like all agree to spread bad information about something that anyone that can use google could easily show was flat out wrong just to F with lazy asshat n00bs.

I got alot out of the Sperry/Austin/Dean/Gary brake thread. http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1063

This was somthing I didn't know:

Look at the WRX rotors, or anyone else running race compounds on the street. The rotors will likely look like raw metal, not the familiar blue/grey of pad compound. I am always very careful duing my first run session to be very smooth and even in braking and let them cool significantly before parking.

So a "partial rebedding" isn't usually needed on street pads?

I think you are right about Carbotech=Hawk dean, but I didn't remember for certain. It is not hearsay though- Carbotech is currently up to their neck in litigation over this.

That's because Carbotech's marketing department probably doesn't want to use something that got them sued as a selling point. ;)

Wait, why are they getting sued?

I can't give details (because I don't have them due to the ongoing litigation) but basically they're not playing by the rules. IMO they are way too shady to get my business. Anyways, can you spot the fanboi in this thread?

LOL, yah, that's pretty funny if the Hawk and Carbotech pads are the same.

Correct, though I always reccomend people take a full cool down lap, and use little to no brakes, and use minimal brake if any when parking in th paddock. Blocks of wood, and wheel chocks are great, and if they are still hot, move the car a foot or two every couple minutes until you can put your tongue on the rotors without burning.

Ah, the Nick method. :lol:

About the blocks of wood comment, It's really not a huge deal to lightly engage the parking brake, since it's a seperate mechanical drum brake under the rear rotors. You won't get pad deposits from using the e-brake.

^^^That's what I thought. If I ever did have to come to a complete stop while the brakes were super hot, I'd use the ebrake for the last mph or two if feasible. I know pads are always touching the rotors, but it can't hurt.

You can probably get away with it on a Subaru with the seperate parking brake, but as a general rule, blocks of wood are the way to go.

Well, I certainly wouldn't recommend jamming the e-brake on w/ 100ft/lbs of torque on the lever, since the rear rotors will be hot... but the shoes aren't on the rotor surface, and usually they're nowhere near as hot as the fronts, and that's where you're really trying to avoid the deposits. It'd take a ton of heat in the rear rotors for the e-brake shoes to fuse to the rotors or warp things out of balance.

More hearsay, but some of the SM guys are saying it's Cobalt that has been re-using Hawk compounds, not Carbotech.



http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/u...1;t=002035;p=2

Carbotech definitely does (or possibly it's used to- they may be big enough now to actually have their own manufacturing) use Hawk pucks, but I would be surprised if they're the only ones who do it. I was considering getting a set of Cobalt pads too. Guess I'll stick to teh HPS next time.

Resurrecting a thread from the dead...

Has anybody ran Yellowstuff pads on the street? I have f/r brand new yellowstuff pads and I am a little worried to run them on the street when it gets really cold outside...any advice is welcome.

I can tell you that Alex runs them year round on his STi and so does Nick on his Saabaru. They're the only pad I know of that can go from a cold Tahoe Winter morning to the track and work well in all conditions. The only downside is that Alex has seen some uneven pad deposits lead to pulsing that a light resurfacing fixes.

That sounds about right for what I've heard. The yellows will get you by in the cold, but you're going to see accelerated rotor wear and deposits, and not get the same braking performance they'd give you when hot.

Personally, I'd just run the Greenstuffs, and keep a set of yellows on the workbench for trackdays.

I thought Alex was on greens (for his STI). Not sure what Nick is on.

I only use yellows, but my car is mostly a dedicated track beast. I would not recommend yellows for a car that is mostly driven on the street. Greens are a better choice for that.

Neh. I just had this conversation with Nick with the Saabaru and Alex this weekend. They both love the yellows.

You can get away with all sorts of stuff on a car that's not really daily driven. I've got Hawk DTC-70 pads on my WRX right now:

These things are so squeally when cold, I think all the dogs in my neighborhood can hear me backing out of my driveway. :lol:

Dean, have you ever gotten the yellows to fade?

I don't track my car at all tho. I got them from pete because they sent him WRX pads instead of STi pads, couldn't turn down free pads! Maybe I should just sell them and get Hawk HPS or something...or upgrade my rotors...

If they fit my car, I'd buy 'em off ya, but you have the Suby 4 pots.

Any brake system will fade if abused. And fade is not the same as soft pedal. And CF is not linear.

That said, I have never had a problem with yellows on either my Stoptechs or Brembos. Old tired fluid has always been the source of any brake issue I have had so far.

Yellows on a WRX are not a magic pill though, but will help substantially with good fluid and a thoughtful driver. The stock WRX brakes just don't have enough heat capacity to handle sustained heavy braking. That doesn't mean you can't take a stock WRX to the track, you just can't dive bomb every braking zone in one no matter what pads you run.

I understand the difference between pad fade and soft pedal but what is CF?

Coefficient of Friction.

I think The yellows are fine for daily driving street. better than the stock STI pads for cold bite. If you are never going to track than the greens are better. but given that you have Free yellows. ROCK EM ;)

Cold days just drag your brakes very briefly or do one test stop when you get going about 7 and you'll be money. If you park in parking lots and you drive carefully through said parking lot , chances are you will put a lil heat into those pads before getting onto a road and be just fine. (Seems to be my experience with them)

honestly after just 1 second of brake drag when they are completely cold makes their cold bite good. and i don't have to re-drag later on while driving. I commute on these 100 miles round trip when i drive in. with long periods of cruise control (20+ minutes) and don't have any issues.

Sick, thanx Alex...