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Damn, so I have to remove the wheel to make adjustments then. I'll try it out before swapping the Eibach's from the front to rear and installing the OEM's I have in the front because then I'd need an immediate alignment. I'm probably still going to get one to check that everything is okay, but I'd like to keep it simple if possible.
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Thanks guys.
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Mucking with any of these will likely require an aligmnent. At this point, I think you have the bolts, so just put them in.
Scott and I at least have camber guages you could use to adjust it, but may as well do toe etc. if you are messing around with it, so take the bolts down to a shop and get it done right. |
Sid said the alignment would most likely be less than $100 if I installed the bolts and up to $300 or more if he installed them. I was like, Okay...I guess I know which I can afford. But now that I live in Stead, I don't want to ruin my new tires driving from my house to his shop on a Monday morning...
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Also what kinda sucks is that you install the bolts one way to increase camber and another way to decreas it, so if I used the bolts, I'd have to install the rear ones differently. :?:
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Hey Dean, Do you think the camber gauges you mentioned that you and Scott have would help me get a decent enough home alignment that I could drive 10 miles on the freeway without ruining my RT-615's?
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Dude, you're not going to hash a set of tires in 10 miles if you're not running crazy toe or massive visual camber. Just take it easy, and you'll be fine.
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"Hrmm... the car is a bit darty, probably too much toe-out, I'll just put a half turn of toe-in at each tie-rod end." "Okay, that was probably too much toe-in... I'll just add some negative camber because I'm too lazy to do the toe again." "Let's check tire temps... wow, they're even across the tire, and the handling feels pretty neutral-to-understeer. Alignment's done!" |
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NICE! Afro-Engineering at it's finest! |
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http://junichisemitsu.com/blog-photos/kid_n_play.jpg |
I GUESS!
It's just a more technical, "PC" term for N**ger Rigging! :lol: |
Alrighty then, I'll just install the bolts in the rear so they reduce negative camber and install the OEM's in the front so they add neg. camber and drop it off at Sid's Monday morning and keep my fingers crossed I guess.
Please let me know (PM or whatever) if anybody can reccomend anything (like a better/cheaper alignment shop, etc). |
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I had to use my stock uppipe as a breaker bar but I was successful at removing 99% of the rubbing in the rear (by doing exactly what I proposed in the above post). After I cracker-rigged...I mean DIY'd my alignment, I used a parking lot nearby to "autox" for a while and I did hear the inside of the right tire rubbing a couple times when I would hit a bump on a hard turn. So hopefully my alignment tomorrow will remove 100% of the rubbing. :)
One thing that sucks is that it looks like the stock camber bolts won't net me as much neg. camber as the Eibach's did. I used a sharpie to mark the front camber: Before: |
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and After:
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The rear was harder to mark.
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After (rear):
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Someday I'm going to have to upgrade my sway bars...my car has too much body roll.
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Sid is the man. I'm now running -1.7 all around (I wish I could run less neg. cam. in the rear but I'd have to roll my fenders...), a touch of toe out in the front, and zero toe in the rear. The stock camber bolts wouldn't get me any more than -.5 in the front but luckily Sid had an extra set of cam bolts that fit the lower holes.
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Any rubbing still?
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Nope. :)
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You may want to check the rules before switching to a points class. I'm not sure running two sets of camber bolts up front is legal... there are some odd rules with regards to camber modifiers.
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Thanks for the heads up. That sucks if that is what ends up knocking me out of ESP.
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15.8 Suspension (Street Prepared) Pg. 86
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Anybody know? |
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