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...you can't have hinges in the bar if it's gonna work. That's why you need to torque down the mounts. And even then, it's not going to be a good as a welded in bar, but that's a little impractical. |
So you disagree that the main point of a strut bar is to keep the tops of the strut towers at a static distance from eachother then Sperry?
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I believe the strut tower brace is not only for lateral distance, but vertical distance (or lack thereof).
A STB with hinges will acomplish the first goal, but not the second. |
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I think a hinged strut bar provides some benefit as far as suspension geometry goes, but a solid bar also adds chassis stiffness as well.
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That said, a rear strut bar helped add a little torsional rigidity in the back of my wagon, as I can no longer hear the hatch twisting around during hard coornering like I could before....but that's a much bigger car with a much bigger hatch area than WRX wagon. I knew the QR's were a sacrifice, as you can't even tighten them effectively, let alone tension them with Whiteline's conventional threading. And if you're saying the bar feels stiff, therefore it's helping, think about how stiff your suspension towers feel already......are you able to just swivel those around? Strut bars are just a minor band-aid fix for larger dynamic issue that can only be effectively addressed with a welded-in, tensioned, triangulated brace. |
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And no, I'm not saying that the fact that it's stiff is helping. I'm saying that the fact that it keeps the strut towers at a static distance means force is shared between two strut towers instead of one. :) |
I think strut bars got popular because the aftermarket made them for cars that needed them first, maybe like old Civics and whatnot. Then everyone decided they wanted them for looks mostly, because most newer cars don't benefit much from them. Cars chassis stiffness has increased so much in the last decade that it's mostly a bling item now. Of course, the manufacturers will be happy to tell you other wise, but I couldn't really notice when I put mine on.
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To keep with your square box analogy, if you have 4 pinned joints at each corner of the box, it will fall down if you push on the side of the box. If the 4 corners have rigid joints instead, it will stay standing if you push on the side of the box. I'll have to refer you to a statics textbook to get much more detailed than that. |
I'm just saying, it better be a VERY stiff joint to keep the box square. Thanks for humoring me.
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Obviously it's not ideal; in an ideal situation you would only have pure tension/compression loadings in your structure. This is only possible when you start adding tubes which criss-cross the car, a.k.a. the roll cage. |
Right, everything about my car is a compromise starting with the fact that it's a "sport wagon". Every mod I have and will ever get shant take away from the versatility of the vehicle.
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Good discussion boys..god damn....
So, wait until I tell you that I'm running no rear bar on the Sti. Double adjustable Coilovers and 8k springs FTW. |
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Nope, I meant my swaybar. I am in new territory of suspension tuning...we shall see. |
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