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mod advice for an autocross wannabe
I'm new to the club here. I have been considering various performance mods. ((I bought an 03 WRX a few months ago)). But, I am seriously considering getting into autocross and maybe rally, so I want to chart a well thought out path on this...
Since I will be new to amature racing, I think that it's probably a good idea (if not necesary) to keep the car eligable for stock class. I have new rims and tires on order... that's the obvious place that I'm OK to start with. After skimming the SCCA rulebook on allowable mods for stock class, I see that rear swaybars, and modified intakes are not allowed. These were the mods that I had on my wish list as next to do. The advice that I am looking for here is what are the most benificial/cost effective mods to make to a WRX, and still qualify for stock class. (ie: for handling, is it a good idea to improve thorugh better springs instead of swaybars?) |
STX would be a good class for you if you really want that RSB. It allows a few mods, without putting you into a street prepared class.
Stock, there isn't a whole lot you can do (hence being called 'stock') but there are a few things. Some say the front sway bar has some benefit and getting new shocks also helps (but not springs). For suspension, I put a rear sway bar on first, and it helped a lot. I just got springs and am putting on a front sway bar too. Everything with suspension does something a little different, and its hard to say what is better for you. |
STX would be an pretty fun starting class with many allowable mods, like nKoan said.
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If you want to mod the car, there's no reason to fuss about being able to run in Stock class. You could just use the guidelines for Street Touring as you mod, but run in Novice until you have a feel for the direction you're taking the car.
Classes such as Stock, Street Touring, and Modified only denote the level of work that has been put into the car, not the skill level or experience of the driver. Dean, for example, is one of the most skilled drivers we have in the group, and he's running a stock Miata right now for fun. Noobs run novice, all else run the class that they've built their car in to. :) |
thanks... makes sense.
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Thanks for the feedback - that helps alot. I'm twitchin to get started. Things are too busy at the moment... I'll check back in when it's time. The video clips on the site were fun to watch - very motivating!
Thanks again, Scott. |
I'm not sure if you were wanting to replace your intake or just remove the intake silencer, but you definately should not replace the stock intake without being custom tuned for it. It usually has no benefit and almost all aftermarket intakes skew the MAF readings causing a lean condition (bad). Sorry if I'm telling you what you already know.
I got lucky and all of my mods happen to be a decent setup for Street Prepared without putting me in Street Mod. Though, I've only run Novice so far. |
Thanks - I've read similar warnings about modifying intakes before - but thanks for the feedback. These things carry more weight when I've heard it more than once. I'll probably be backing off of power improvements though, and focus on improving control first... probably swaybars and endlinks.
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Handling's definitely a good place to start.
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The best upgrade for any car, is a skilled driver. I have a weird tick about modifing my vehicles, I can't justify modifing it, if I know I haven't reached its absolute limit.
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Thanks Bob Danger,
I appreciate that perspective, and I plan to carry out any mods gradually, once I have spent some time driving, and talking with people so I have a real idea about what I'm doing. That said... I can't seem to get over how much the car rolls in the turns. Even if only to improve street handling, I'm motivated to do something about that soon. Any advice out there on sway bar setups. I know that ultimately it comes down to my own personal taste... but I'de like some feedback on this. Here's what I think I know: I've seen several brands, and know they come in different diameters = increasing stiffness, hollow and solid - etc. The car is prone to understeer, so stiffening up the back more is important. What I want to ask is: For an 03 sedan, does anyone have suggestions of a front/rear combo that is balanced nicely, and stiff enough if I want to start autocross, but still reasonable for daily driving? Thanks. |
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Adding a front and rear sway bar may not be the best way to go for curing you're (everyone with a Subaru) understeering problem. The car will be a little more flat under cornering, but having just a rear sway will make the car rotate a million times better. I have a Perring adj. sway, endlinks and mounts bought it used for like $120 dollars or something, works perfect. I would suggest the whole package, eliminate any weak links. Browse here, I-club, NASIOC, any Subaru site, and look for people selling used sways, and other items of interest. p.s. If you're still on RE92's buy something else. 17x7.5 or 17x8 rims, and you're choice on tire size, Everyone seemes to like 235/40/17. |
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And for wheels... I've got 17x17.5's on the way, and 225/45/17's on order. Through searching, I found that 235's are a bit of a stretch for 7.5's (?) And thanks for being patient with my not searching on the swaybar thing first... partially laziness, but mostly trying to connect with people as a newbie here. And as mentioned... probably belongs in technical - sorry about that. |
Thanks TysonK,
That's all great info, (which I should've dug up myself). :oops: Nice of you to take the time on that. The post with the swaybar calcs looks highly useful. |
no problem dude.
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BTW If you do the rear sway you will be in the STX class, which means you can modify your air intake system. If you want to stay in stock class you can not modify your air intake system at all, you can replace the air filter with a K&N oem replacement. but you can not do a 'silencer delete'.
K &N Claims their intake kits are safe on your engine, and i've read in a few other places that the piping where the MAF sensor goes is 'close enough' to the stock size (maybe 2 mm larger). But everyone in the know tells me i should get a Tune , and that i'm probably running a bit too lean , if i notice any difference at all with my K&N. :( which would mean a $200 kits requires $800+ for an ap and a tune. Mike Suggested : Secrets of Solo racing , which finally showed up via amazon ! Its got a lot of great info . I'll be re-reading it a few times before the next autoX. (Thanks again mike) |
** i think ** rubberbiscuitt's car will have to be classified into STX at a minimum. (Rear sway bar) If you want a competitor in the same class, maybe consider asking him what class he plans to run in (post novice) , and coordinate. Just an idea.
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I have to add my obligitory comment... Is that redundant, or am I just saying things over and over??? :)
Just come out and drive on stock everything, and learn how to drive it. Then you can make educated decisions on what youwant to change. You will learn more driving a soft suspension street tired car than pretty much any other configuration. Make the driver faster, not the car first... [/soapbox] |
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I started auto-x in a '95 Thunderbird, bone stock. Then ran a full season in my WRX on RE92's (though I did run a rear sway bar pretty early on... it didn't make a huge difference in my time compared to simply driving more). |
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So, I just bolted on an aftermarket spoiler. What's the best angle to set that puppy at for my first time out? :?:
Thanks for the words of wisdom. |
set it to ... 3
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