Trying to Revert to stock
 

Im about ready to throw this piece of shit AP out the damn window. Im trying to revert back to stock on it so I can see if that changes the boost at all and its not working. I have been sitting in my driveway like a douchebag for 45minutes trying to get it to work. I have the connectors plugged in and it keeps saying "turn the car off fully then back on" so I have been doing that again and again and again. Its never different. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to make this thing work?

My AP is running around here like Tony Montana, looking up at me "FaK you maNe!"

All I can tell you is that it's common for people to have difficulty removing the AP, especially older ones. See if cobbforums has any help for you. Sorry dude. :(

I know I was sweating bullets making sure I un-married mine correctly.

The last resort is the ECU goes to COBB to get re re-flashed?

Does the car run right now?

If it is an '02-'03 you need to plug in the white/blue jumper as well as connecting the two green diagnostic connectors.

Once you get the off then on prompt, you have to go all the way to off, not just to ACC, wait a seccond or two and then back on... wait a bit and then hit the button to continue.

The people at cobb probably do. It might be time to give them a call.

Yes the car is running right now. Its an 04 AP so I have the white connector which is plugged in. Im gonna go try it again right now.

Oh shit its working. i had to try like 30 times and now its finally working. Very Very slowly but its working none the less. Now ill see if the AP did anything to my boost. If not then all fingers point to the turbo...or something completely random.

Cool... At least you will get back to a known state.

Ok well here is what happened on my test drive after removing the AP. Note that the only mod on the car at this time is the TBE and a K&N filter in the stock airbox. The boost went up to probably 12 psi. 3 more then when I had the AP on there. Now the car drives jerky as hell. 1st is like a horse is kicking me in the ass the whole time. I seem to feel the most pull and boost kick on at about 5k-5500k. Does the computer have to relearn how to run the car? Should I do the whole "disconnect the neg cable and pump the breaks" reset? I am gonna try to make it to bullys tomorrow so someone can drive the car and give me their opinion. Does anyone have an idea now of what is going on?

Any cats in the TBE?

Just to be sure, unplug the battery and and hit the brakes to reset ECU one more time.

Man you joined this forum just in time your car is freaking out, but it'll get fixed.

no cats

= Custom Tune in my opinion..

You need to thank Subaru for building a very smart ECU, and COBB not going crazy with their base maps as they probably just saved you an engine...


The car runs like crap because the ECU is trying to keep you from destroying the engine.

Running catless on the stock map is especially dangerous on MY04+ due to the CL/OL delay. Try not to drive too aggressively.

Ok I reset the ECU and its not jerky anymore. It seems to be back to normal. Doesnt seem to have as much power as it did yet I am only getting like 10psi right now. I am gonna take the turbo off today hopefully before tonight so I can bring it to bullys. I am also installing the catted uppipe. How much is a custom tune? I am kind of thinking about selling the AP and just getting it tuned. Thoughts?

I'd suggest you keep the AP, leave the catless UP on, and get tuned. You need an AP if you want to get tuned via Cobb ProTuner which is the best way to go right now.

If you sell the AP how will you get your custom map onto the ECU?

Obviously you still have a boost issue somewhere that will obviously need to be repaired prior to tuning.

A dyno tune shouldn't cost you more than $350.

Holy over reaction batman!

How about instead of blowing the car up by reflashing/remaping/reverting to stock on the ECU, and *then* taking off the turbo, you just bring the car that "drives just fine but only makes 9 psi" to the meet and have someone look at it?

Changes are you've got something disconnected, or a leak somewhere. Not a busted ECU, not a bad map, not a blown turbo. Taking the turbo off is not a 5 minute job and involves getting oil and coolant all over the place, not to mention taking off the exhaust, intercooler, intake, etc.

oh yeah i know all that crap involved with taking the turbo off. Ill just leave the car and let someone drive it tonight. Is there anyway you guys could meet up a little earlier then 7?

I'll be lucky to get there by 7 at all... I've got work, and if I have any time before the meet I'm hoping to swap the rear diff on my SVX.

well I will try to be there at 7 but I dont know how long I can stay.

Have you checked the tiny little house - 1/8" dia at the back of the intake manifold. This came off on my car at a track day and dropped boost pressure by about 5-7 psi. It is very small and pretty easy to miss visually and fairly easy to find with your ears.

when you say behind the intake maifold, where exactly?

I think the line he's talking about is only on STIs.

well ill just wait until someone can check it out tonight. I have one flashlight, perhaps someone else can bring one.

How late are you guys at Bullys? I have work tonight and its gonna be tight for me to make it. Would anyone be able to meet me another day of the week?

At the back, slightly left of center (from memory so it could be slightly right due to my lyxdexia).

If i Remember correctly, 04-05 wrx's dont turn off their ignition at this stage. Do you have the users manual for th AP? Im not at home or id tell you for sure, but im about 95% sure that in my manual it says that 04-05 users ignore this step. That is most likely your problem in un-marrying your AP. ( of course you have to turn off the ignition and remove the test connector and the diag connectors after the reflash.

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