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I did it
I went ahead and bought the catted tbe from crucial. Wanted to wait for more clips but they just weren't coming and I can't handle my whisper quiet stock exhaust anymore. I have a kartboy short shifter here also that is waiting to be installed but I figured I will wait until I take off the exhaust since I have to remove a pipe to do the bushings anyway. I'll put up a review and some videos when I get it all done.
edit: somebody buy my damn wheels to help me pay for this stuff :P |
Nice, I look fwd to the review and hearing it in person. :)
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I snickered. *shrugs*
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catted pipes are on backorder for a little bit :|
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Sucks. Can he ship you the CBE to tide you over? I think that as long as you use a good gasket, you should be able to get it to mate to the stock rear cat.
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Meh, I can wait a week. I would rather do it all at once anyway. My accessport just came in the mail too so I am giddy with anticipation.
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Flash to stage 1 now?
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ok you twisted my arm. Stage 1 it is.
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Guess what I got! He overnight shipped it to me when the cat came in. +1 customer service. Only thing I need is exhaust hangers. Anybody have a suggestion for good ones? Click pictures for big version.
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/7230/img4374qb6.th.jpg http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/6262/img4378vc4.th.jpg http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/9711/img4381mc4.th.jpg Only thing that seemed off was the welding on the inside where the cat is welded in. Not sure if this would effect anything or is worth even trying to smooth out. http://img391.imageshack.us/img391/7...4376pk4.th.jpg |
Sweet! I look forward to hearing it in person. I was looking at the same setup but catless for my wrx.
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I doubt that the welding slag (or whatever it's called) would make any difference that far down the exhaust tract. I have the long Kartboy hangers and they're perfect. Why do you need new ones? Don't most reuse the stockers?
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I have heard some people use them with success. Just depends on the exhaust. Guess I will just use the stock ones and see how it goes. Can't wait to get it on though, hopefully I will have it on tomorrow or Monday.
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That cat looks identical to the magnaflow cat that I welded into my exhaust. It didn't really make a difference in how loud the car was, it just took off the raspy sound that I loved.
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ran into some problems :(
I'll just link my nasioc posts http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1569616 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1569624 so I have to figure out this shifter thing and find a new nut for my downpipe. |
Those turbo to DP bolts come off all the time. Once they've been installed, you have to go back after a few heat cycles and re-tighten them. I think I've lost probably 4 of them over the years. 'Course, I never torque mine to spec... it's too much of a PITA to get a torque wrench on the lower two... so I just use an end-wrench and put as much elbow to 'em as possible... which is why mine fall off a lot I guess... but I probably have my DP on and off the car more in one month than most people do in 5 years.
Just pick up some new nuts from the hardware store (get the highest grade you can get of course) or gank some from somewhere else on the car (those 14mm nuts are used in lots of places) and replace the less critical part w/ some hardware store stuff. |
Those nuts fall off constantly, like Scott said. I've done clutches in 2 turbo cars in the last month, and neither of them had all of the DP hardware...
If you want OE hardware, come by here. I've got a few. |
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Well that makes me feel a little better. I need to run out and get a wrench for my PITA O2 sensor on the midpipe so I might swing by to grab a few nuts if I can't find any suitable.
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Having all your downpipe bolts is for chumps.
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I thought the rear 02 sensor was in the open enough that you could just use a wrench on it. Nothing wrong with borrowing a proper O2 wrench from Autozone though.
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I think you can get to both O2 sensors w/ a standard 22mm end-wrench. The only problem is when they're in there so damn tight you end up rounding it off trying to break it loose.
Back when my car was still stock-ish, I removed my front O2 sensor just one time... after that I cut the head shield so it could be removed w/o taking out the sensor, from then on I just left the sensor in the header and simply unplugged it in the engine bay every time I had to remove the headers. The rear O2 is similar, there's not really any reason to remove it just to take off the exhaust (though I realize the reason you're pulling it this time is because you're swapping exhausts). |
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Not that it's relevent to this thread, but +1. You definitely want to slot the stock header heat shield if you ever remove it. For example, after doing an UP, you need to get back in there after a heat cycle and retorque everything and you need to get that heat shield off to do that.
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R and E Fastener is now closer to South Reno, on Rock Blvd. I know it's not right in your neighborhood, but stop be so grumpy. :monkey: That Ace was handy though, they always had the hardware that we needed.
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This is true. RIP Ace.
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there's a hardware store in carson , by the new 395 on ramp that has an amazing selection of Metric bolts, and metric Taps + die sets.
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Crucial sent me all new stuff for the exhaust so I just used a few of the nuts I had off the stock exhaust. Thank you for all the suggestions though!
I finally got it on, if seems like after reaching operating temp and driving for awhile I get a leak. Can't tell if it's the dp/turbo or dp/mid. It's such a PITA jacking the car and removing everything to figure it out. :( |
I'm not sure what the official sequence is, but this is how I try and keep the exhaust tight.
Work from the engine out... The first section doesn't really apply to you right now... Finger tight headers and then cross pipe. Tighten headers and then cross pipe. (Start Here...) Make sure 2 turbo mounting nuts are loose. These are the ones that hold the turbo to the bracket hanging off the engine, not the ones that hook to any exhaust parts. with these loose, the turbo should move freely with about 1/8"-1/4" total play. Up-pipe to header bolts Up-Pipe to Turbo bolts Make sure the Turbo is happy sitting where it wants to on the up-pipe and then tighten the Turbo-bracket bolts. Now keep working backwards along the exhaust. There should never be torque on the mating surface you are working on if you want the gasket to seat and the bolts to torque correctly. Turbo-down-pipe is toughest as the damn pipe just hangs there. You have to jack up the back end to allow you to get that gasket seated well. |
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Thanks Dean. I miss the real Air Force bases that had a auto hobby shop. $2/hour for a lift and any tools you need was so convienent. Now, jacking up the car is the hardest part.
That is in fact Urban lol. Trust me, I did a good scan of all thier normal posts before my attempts. Turns out I can hit 85 by the end with the help of the mighty brembos to stop me before plumas. Oh wait... I mean, all filming was done in Mexico. |
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At least we have a perfect example of why we don't make new club stickers.
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85 in a 25 zone, with other cars around. Gee, I wonder why Subaru drivers get such a bad name. :rolleyes: |
Depends on who you ask I suppose. I know the road and people that live on it pretty well. It was a one time thing.
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in other words that's what every person says.;) |
you win
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Sorry man. Didn't mean to call you out.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62...51641911-S.jpg |
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