Lake Tahoe cruise mid next week.
 

So some time in the middle of next week i'm going to cruise South lake Tahoe. It's to break my clutch in most of the way (300 miles ish that drive round trip) and I hear it's a nice drive so come along guys. I'm thinking we can grab lunch or a coffee in Tahoe and just enjoy the sights. It will likely be Wednesday or Thursday afternoon.

Sorry, I have a job.

I also have a job, but if you want to follow me on my commute home its a pretty sick drive..
431 to 28 to 50. can stop and eat dinner and if you take 89 back around to 28 to 267 and 80 down you'll have quite a loop :)

And? If that's sarcasm i'm going to go ahead and call you a douche now. Everyone on this forum works pretty much. If you're not interested just don't post man, simple concept!

I'm a moderator on a few forums and I rarely indulge in insults but your comment is uncalled for.

My main thing is I want to put like 300-400 miles on the car that day to complete clutch break in mostly haha. Figured part of the day a couple of you could join. The drive you're describing is probably 40 miles?

That's not 400miles.. but that is a pretty long drive that a1337sti said. it's a pretty fun one too.

Ok. I'm down.

Sorry if this is insulting, but I too have a job.

Well it's not insulting but being a smartass isn't needed. If you're going to be working keep it simple like "I'm working that day" or simply don't respond at all IMO.

Drive to Oregon and you will have the miles you desire.

I almost forgot. I too have a job.


:lol:

Way to overreact.

If you think "I have a job" is hard core sarcasm to the point where you're going to call one of the guys that founded the club a douche... this ain't the forum for you, because we don't exactly pull punches, especially with the new folks. Ask Cody and Juice... they got some of the worst.

It's a small board... people are going to respond to threads even if they don't have much constructive to add.

BTW: You could drive 10,000 miles around the lake and never break in that clutch. Or you could have it done in one lap at RFR. It's got nothing to do with mileage, and everything to do with actually driving to break in the clutch. I'd be happy to help, but I've got a job too... plus, I don't want to be called a douche if I should happen to crack a tiny bit wise.

Hey looks like we all have something in common right?

I can care less if you pull punches or not Scott. I've been around the block and you'll end up banning me before you somehow humiliate or outwit me. My point was I didn't see the need to be sarcastic when I was genuinely trying to set something up. I called your friend a douche because well he was being a douche. Just like if I flame bait your threads you can call me a dick and i'll be perfectly fine with it.

I've been peaceful in my time here and have tried to avoid any conflict but don't mistake me for someone who won't speak up, you have the wrong guy. The worst that can happen is I get banned from a forum and move on.

This is normally the spot where I post the continuum of caring. But it's late, and I'm old, so I'll just put this out there: feel free to lighten up because if you don't you're just going to be frustrated with us.

And I mean that genuinely. I'm not trying to get into some pissing match, or make some ultimatum. We've never banned anyone for speaking their mind, and you're not going to get banned for disagreeing with me. I'm just letting you know, you won't get much out of the club if you can't expand your sense of humor enough to let something like Matt's comment slide. Plus, if you're hostile or rude, people aren't going to want to help you out on the forums, or in person.

Seriously, I'm trying to give you some friendly advice, don't take this the wrong way.

Appreciate it Scott. I over reacted for sure but anyone who has met me on this board would tell you i'm the least serious guy. Like I said it's mainly because I was looking forward to turning into something fun with the drive. Remember a sense of humor is all relative. When a complete stranger is sarcastic, it's very easy to misunderstand or overreact. I'm still getting to know everyone. If Moose for example called me an douche I would laugh but if a random guy in the store called me one it would be different.

Do you mind explaining a clutch break in period? For example when you get a new car they give you a break in period in which they recommend a minimum miles with a certain driving style but you said it has nothing to do with distance. So you're saying I don't need a 500 mile break in for clutch? From what i've seen even on your forums is guys who DON'T take it easy for break in period lose a clutch within 20k miles. My OEM clutch has lasted 68k miles which I assume can partially be attributed to proper break in. I did just read though 500 miles is conservative and some clutch shops recommend just 200.


BTW this isn't a who's E-PEEN is bigger contest? I thought all forums were!

Even though this is a general thread, I am going to throw in some tech...

Breaking in a clutch is similar to breaking in pads and rotors and should be done correctly or it may suck for some or all of it's life.

A stock "organic" or even semi-metallic clutch can just be driven, but it is likely never going to feel as good as it could if it is not bedded.

A performance clutch definitely needs to be bedded. Ask MikeK about his ACT 6 puck.

So, if you want to go for a drive around the lake, go ahead, but it is not going to properly bed your clutch IMHO.

I'd be happy to offer suggestions, but would need to know what kind of clutch it is, flywheel, PP and disc.

The best way to break in your clutch is to hook up to another car and pull it up an incredibly steep driveway. I dare you not to slip it!

:lol:

I was told the best way to break in a clutch was to rev to 6.2k and slip it. Then each time you shift, keep the clutch partially pressed down the entire time? I think Scott told me that.

I went ahead and ordered the OEM Exedy Organic clutch because I don't drive hard enough to warrant a serious upgrade like Act. Plus I love the way the OEM one feels and it's lasted 68k miles of hard driving which is pretty damn good. So the Pressure plate,Flywheel and clutch are all OEM Dean, so what do you recommend for break in?

I read if you don't bed the clutch you will glaze the FW and the PP? I figure a super long drive like I suggested worth 300-400 miles round trip would do the trick. Everytime I get a new car I get excited and put on 500 miles first 2 days or so, so it's nothing really hard for me to do.

EDIT: I just read on ACT'S website their clutches only recommend a few hard launches/slips to bed the clutch LOL, so now I know what Scott meant. They also said that 500 miles is too much for organic and they recommend 200-300.

Did you replace the PP and machine the FW or just get a new disc?

You have to be careful of an organic not to overheat the disc, but you still have to evenly transfer material onto the metal surfaces from the disc as well as heat cycle the disc material to get much/most/all of the volatiles out of it.

I'll have a specific suggestion depending on the FW/PP status answers.

I didn't install yet Dean. I ordered a full clutch kit which comes with a brand new Clutch,Pressure plate and a couple bearings. I'm going to get the Flywheel resurfaced when we pull it down early next week. I already got it priced at $30 from Reno brake and clutch. So my break in procedure will need to be for a resurfaced FW and a completely new clutch and Pressure plate.

I got the full Exedy clutch kit for $307 free shipping with 1-2 day rush delivery included ; ).

I'd strongly recommend throwing in an ACT Streetlite flywheel while you're at it. They're cheap at under $240 from super low cost internet nobody stores, and a great mod even for daily drivers.

It's good to see all the tears have subsided in this thread...

Talk to Reno Brake about it. They are far more knowledgeable than I am.

My thoughts:

With all new surfaces, there is no disc material on the metal of the FW or PP. You need to get the metal surfaces hot enough to take some material without overheating the organic disc.

The best way to heat the metal is slipping the clutch, the best way to cool/stabilize the disk temp after heating it is to leave it in contact with the large metal surfaces, but you don't want it to micro weld itself to the plates and leave uneven deposits.

So, what would I do?

Insert standard disclaimer here. You F up your car doing this, it is your own fault for not doing your own research and making your own choices.

Drive around for a few minutes to get wherever you are going to do this, shifting as smoothly as you can with low RPM minimal slip starts. Just warming things up a bit.

2 or 3 moderate slipping ~2000-2500 RPM launches. No clutch drop, but no smoke either. Don't stop and leave the clutch pedal down for any length of time between them. If you feel like you did 2 good ones don't do the 3rd, if 1 or 2 felt like the clutch grabbed earlier than you wanted, do #3.

Now drive, smoothly (minimal slip) up & down shifting 1st-3rd for a few minutes shifting every 15-20 seconds. This will allow the heat to soak into the metal, move the disc around the plates and keep them from sticking.

Do another 1-2 moderate slipping launches. Again, If you nail the first one, skip the second. These are the critical ones IMHO as they will lay down and smooth out the layer of pad material on the metal surfaces. Then do 10-15 minutes of minimal slip driving around, only now use gears 3-5/6 and get some speed and air moving and cool everything back down again shifting smoothly at least 2 times a minute to move the disc around.

Go about your business. It is going to take some time get all the volatiles out of the disc, so don't be afraid to slip it a little after driving for a bit to give it a little heat to help. This will also keep it from absorbing moisture and the dreaded "chatter/judder" organics are known for.

Never do 4000RPM slipping for 200+ foot clutch smoking launches, you will glaze everything and it will likely never be the same until you swap it.

Again, your mileage may vary, no warranties expressed or implied.

You don't need this for an organic clutch DD IMHO. Just resurface the stocker.

It has nothing to do with the clutch material. I've just liked driving every car I've owned better with a lightweight flywheel than without. Faster free revving and less wear on your synchros since they have less rotational mass to deal with.

He likes drag racing tho, so that will kill his launches.

Not with a stock clutch it won't.

Not that I'm making WRX power, or even that I can "launch" my lil RS, but I noticed it takes more feathering with my fidanza flywheel, with the same clutch kit he's getting. Maybe more power will make up for it, because I noticed I accidentally launched and chirped the tires a bit last time I went to sea level.

Yea honestly I absolutely love the OEM clutch feel. I had a mini revelation. My WRX clutch has been shuddering, not catching immediately for 1-2 months it was just so subtle I didn't really put it together. I know this because after hearing you guys talk about new clutch feel and it grabbing aggressively right away. My Honda S2000 had 1800 miles on it total and the clutch felt INCREDIBLE because it was obviously new but broken in.

Thanks for the ideas Kevin. Honestly i'm transitioning jobs so even an extra 200-300 for a flywheel probably wouldn't be smart. My plan is put the OEM new clutch in and resurface flywheel for now and when I save a little cash i'll buy a top of the line clutch and flywheel. I know clutches can be a great mod.

What? Fiscal responsibility with mods while in a state of financial flux? Unpossible. :lol:

Haha it's not my normal persona. I'm actually very impulsive.

Might be glazed, did you try rebedding it? Sometimes helps when "shuddering" or it will finish it off. :)

More or less what I already described, though I would add some aggressive declutch during the middle drive on downshifts to try and break up the glaze by torquing in the other direction.

I think MattR has thought his stock STI clutch was dead for 2 years now and it comes back with a few bedding launches.

Keep in mind that a LW FW will add the Subaru deceleration noise. No biggie, but it should be known. I like the ACT Streetlite but it's not a big difference over stock AFAIC tell.

Ok i'll try it but this clutch is definitely done. If I give more than 70 percent throttle before 5k RPM the clutch slips hard. It's good for me though it teaches me to not always accelerate so much. I don't race or anything but I usually accelerate moderately hard often. Now i'm forced to take off slower than mini vans passing me haha.

:oops: Bet my clutch i got put in at 60K miles is pretty much done already .. (89K) I've done a few 5K launches with the DCCD Locked... on the bright side i learned an STI can hop with out hydrolics :lol:

I **Might** *might* have a Light wheel fly wheel to sell cheap... I bought one thinking it was legal in my rally class and after a 2nd more careful examination it looks like i "Glazed" over the "same material clause as offered by manufactor" clause... don't suppose subaru offers Chromolly steel flywheels eh? :lol:

I think ansel is getting my stock one lightened and i'm gonna swap that in and he'll get my chromolly one... stupid confusing rules....

STI you still want us to do your commute with you this week? Austin said it's a real nice drive so i'm down to try it. I'm thinking i'll drive to Sacramento to get my stop and go break in driving done too.

then u can hit up rpm raceway:) but if im in reno i can stop by and help u guys out with the install and also i would be down to do this drive

Awesome man appreciate it Chris. Yea the drive we can all figure out. Austin said around Tahoe is very fun. I'll probably also do Sacramento the next day too so I get some of the stop and go I need. BTW holy shit going uphill from a stop is a nightmare with a slipping clutch. I had to brake while on a huge speed bump section in this apartment complex and my clutch slipped in a weird violent stutter/shutter way and almost stalled twice. Jesus man my clutch better come Monday or Tuesday like it's supposed to.

ahah i know what u mean i had to do mine couple months back and it sucked with the slipping clutch

Chris check my post about help installing a clutch. I'm putting off install until Saturday or Sunday due to late arrival of clutch kit so more of you probably will be free to stop by and eat some Pizza and help for an hour or 2. I'm going to keep the food coming all day lol. Probably Chinese food for everyone for lunch and Pizzas for dinner or something like that. Beer and soda too.

I'm surprised your clutch is going out. You drive an '06. I sold my '02 with 75k on it still on the stock clutch. So, unless you drive it inappropriately or someone else has, it shouldn't go out as quickly as it has.

I got the car only 2.5k miles ago. The 06 puts down more power and from what i've seen around Subaru forums they do burn up clutches quicker than 02-05's. Before I heat soaked one of my dyno runs was over 200 torque stock and we are at elevation. Cobb dyno showed 30 tq and 15-20 hp increase in the 2.5l also. A 2.0L wrx would be lucky to have 170 or 180 torque. That extra 20-30 TQ at the wheels adds up. Tranny for 05 and up is reinforced a little but I believe the clutches from 02-06 were the same.

Btw Chris it's Michael. I got struts done by your buddy when I worked at Galena market.