-04 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement "The Answer"
 

Updated 6/10/2011

I needed some place to put the answer, and thought others would appreciate it...

First, here is the thread with the How-To...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070

Here is the thread with more bearing and grease tech than my brain can handle.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=987976

And here are the "answers" as far as I can tell.

Bearings (For the enthusiast):

NTN: 4T-CR1-0823 On the box(4T-CR1-0823CS113#01[J100])
Nissan: 40210-16E00 (Original), 40210-94N00 (Replacement but, not sure it is identical) Also: 40210-01E00, 43210-01E00
NSK: 42KWD02A
SKF: FW105
Timken: 513015
Auto Extra(Timken):379-513015 Summit

Grease:

Mobil SHC220 / Mobil 1 red synthetic

Seals:
Front Outer:
28015-AA070 Subaru
22038 SKF & CR (Chicago rawhide)
Bore=2.835"; Shaft=2.205"; Outside diameter=2.8460"; Width=.315"

Front inner;
28015-AA080 Subaru
22026 SKF & CR (Chicago rawhide)
Shaft=2.205"; Width=.315"; Outside diameter=2.8580"; Bore=2.846IN

That is all.
Reference:
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...eGuide7536.pdf

NTN Bearing source:
BearingDepot.com
$40.67 EACH , SHIPPING IS $7.50 As of 6/9/06
CALL 732-563-2225.

That torque spec is for the king nut?

If the "King Nut" is the nut on the end of the axle which I would call the "axle nut".

king nut = castle nut = axle nut = whatever the real name is for slotted nuts that you put cotter pins through.

It's not slotted on any of the Subarus I've seen. It is one of the ones that you dent into a square recess in the axle shaft. And I removed the Torque number because it was wrong.

Ah, that's right. I've seen them enough, I should have remembered.

The king nut/castle nut is not the axle nut!!

The axle nut goes on the end of the axle and holds the bearings/hub to the axle, while the castle nut (w/ the cotter pins) holds the ball joint to the knuckle.

So I noticed when Dean corrected me.

I think technically, any nut with the slots for cotter pins is technically king/crown nut, and they have many uses, including axle nuts, though mostly those are front axles on RWD cars.

Just to update###

New Nissan part # is
40210-94N00

Dean, I will start on this job in coming weeks and let you know how it goes.

Just so you guys know here's Napa pricing on the bearing and seals. I have these in stock if needed...

FW105 $55.00
22038 $4.62
22026 $5.00

Scott did this process and part# change for our cars?I know you switched for a reason but why?

Thanks man, Cory's price at Nissan is still the best.

Khail, do you guys stock the mobil-1 red grease?

Updated first post with a cheap bearing source.

BearingDepot.com
$40.67 EACH , SHIPPING IS $7.50 As of 6/9/06
CALL 732-563-2225.

They may have the seals as well.

Nope, just the engine oil.

No I switched to '05 hubs. This is just a "stronger" bearing that fits in the '04 hubs.

My 03 WRX is in Fernley about to get worked on at a shop on Monday.

Should I tell the shop to order Nissan bearings or is whatever he can get the fastest along with the axle I need.

Should I tell the shop to repack the bearing with high performance grease?

Yes!

You can order parts or pick up local maybe. You need to have it torn down first to see what all has to be done. I destroyed everything in that corner except the strut and caliper. spindle, axle, seals, retainers, rotor, etc...

Go find the Axle thread for the AZ guys. Gotta run...

IHeartSTI or SedonaBugEye might have some of the parts you need....

I know I need the axle and the bearing. The first post is a little wild. What exactly would you tell the shop, Dean?

Not sure I understand the question, but here goes.

It has to be torn down to see if the spindle, bearing retainer, etc. are hurt. You need a full parts list...

Bearing part numbers and seal part numbers in first Post are Non-Subaru, so can be matched or cross referenced, except maybe Nissan #. I do not have the generic #s for the Subaru bearing, but they are in one of the referenced thread. You don't want those, and don't let them convince you they are the same. You want the Nissan bearing, NTN or SKF numbers listed above, or don't buy it. Again, I have not read those threads for updates, or can I verify that the new Nissan number is actually the same improved bearing, but trust Matt/Cory enough to add it to the first post.

You can get the Subaru seals and retainers if you want/need. It is all about the harder bearing with the improved cage.

Axles are axles, there is no reason to pay up, or not to buy a used one with good boots from a club member or wrecking yard. CVs seldom if ever fail with good boots unless beat upon or run dry which doesn't happen unless the boot fails really.

Did that help? Unless you know this shop, I would still suggest asking Pat H. if he is interested. He is a good mechanic and is right there in Fernley, and could use the work. Also has a trailer to get it to his place if needed.

If you want to bring it back to Reno, I could do it with my trailer, but it will cost you gas and such...

Gas, Grass or .....um.......nevermind

Cody, second thread in the first post is the one worth reading. People are still blowing up the Nissan bearing, but it appears to last a bit longer.

People who don't replace damaged spindle housings or the wrong grease (with sulfur) get reamed by refailure.

6Gun Racing makes a $830 5X100 version of the '05+ STI setup that accepts '02-'07 XRX and '04 STI axles/wheels.

Thanks for the generous offer Dean. I should have called you last night about a possible tow back to Reno but didn't want to impose. The car has been towed to Auto Doc's Complete Car Care in Fernley and they have the keys. The owner seems receptive to my special instructions suggestions so far (hand tools only on the lugs, Napa parts, etc.). I'm nervous but it should be fine. I just hope they can/will do the clean out the existing grease completely/repack with Mobil-1 Red Full Synth. And I hope they do a good job installing and let me know if the hub needs replacing, if it really does, etc. I'll ask them to keep the parts they pull off. That might keep them honest.

I did some research on nabisco and I'm just going to stick with the Subaru bearing since my car is at a shop in Fernley and I don't want to overcomplicate it.

If Cory were doing the work, I'd go that route but I don't want the shop that's doing the work blaming the Nissan part if they do an improper installation resulting in a premature failure of the replacement bearing. It sounds like the right grease and proper installation is far more beneficial than going to the Nissan bearing anyway.

Plus, there's very few people reporting that they've tried this and the few that have haven't exactly had glowing reviews. And has anyone said what cars these fit? It seems to fit the 04 STi but that's all I saw.

At least when I tried Uncle Scotty's Cocktail, I could read through hundreds of positive reviews that typically included the particular application...and that turned out to be a bust anyway. There are some "gurus"/engineer posts that it's a good idea and some that say it's not recommended/necessary.

CN: I'm skipping it this time.

The '04 STi hub/spindle is the same as the WRX (hence the '05 upgrade).

So that means the Nissan bearing would fit my WRX?

Yes.

And if you read the first post/page in that thread, you will see that installation is uber importante regardless of bearing! Ultra-Clean and dry to start combined with the right grease are critical. Non-Sulfur EP grease being the last critical piece.

The good news is that they're going to do the Nissan bearing and the Mobil-1 Synth. red grease. The bad news, they're charging me for 4 hours of labor. :unamused: Cory said it was 2 hours by the book and takes him one. :unamused: :unamused: :unamused:

Edit: Nevermind, Cory just texted me that the book does say 3.7 hours. :unamused:

No, I said I charge 2 hours 'cause I have no idea what the book says, but I know it's more than 2 hours and it doesn't take me nearly that long! Close enough tho... :D

Hey, I hear what I want to hear!

Car should be done tomorrow. They got the Nissan bearing using the SKF number that Dean has in the first post. Shop confirmed it has the metal cage instead of nylon like the OE part. They were 100% fine with using it and still honoring their guarentee, which kind of surprised me.

Here's another thread on this topic: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=FW105

I'm stll kind of nervous that so few people have reported back good results with the NTN part, much less the cross referenced SKF part, but nothing ventured nothing gained?

I didn't think any had a metal cage. Races are metal obviously, but cages are all plastic I think. That is why the Sulfurless grease is so important.

And if you read your thread, you will see what is printed on the box may not be what is in the box... :(

I would plan on doing the other side shortly!!! maybe when Cory has a slow day. Do not wait for it to fail as well.

So, Matt and I don't count? :P

Pretty sure I read that the Nissan ones have metal cages. Cory?

Matt and you used the SKF number to get the parts? The SKF and NTN parts do look slightly different, apparently.

From the first post in my second thread...

"EP greases often contain sulfur as an additive which has been proven to negatively affect the nylon retainers which are used in these bearings. The wrong EP grease can result in catastrophic failure."

Maybe I used the word cage incorrectly. If there is any Nylon, no Sulfur

The shop uses Mobil-1 Red Synthetic grease so no worries either way.

I think the cages on the bearings that went into Matt's car are metal.

We didn't use the SKF or the NTN part numbers to get the parts. We used the Nissan part number.

I think probably the biggest take away from the misc. threads is the lubrication. The stock mineral based lubricant just can't cut it at the track. New properly cleaned, dried and packed bearings with the EP stuff probably make more difference than which bearing you choose.

Cory, any chance you have one of those bearings on the parts shelf and can look to see if it has any other markings or numbers? Would just be interesting.

One of the other interesting comments was race teams just keeping built up spindles as spares so they can swap at the track. Pop the ball joint, tie rod, 2 strut bolts and slip out the axle... reverse. 5 minute job with the right tools/skills.

Hey Scott, what did you do with your 5x100 spindles? :)

True, Dean. I was very glad to hear that the shop will grease properly.

I'm thinking that I'll take my car in to Cory/Nissan to do the other side and then check the alignment since the camber bolts are removed to do the bearings. They're going to mark them and put them back in the best they can, but I'm a bit anal about my alignment.

Then learn to check it yourself in your own garage. :) I still take it out for major stuff, but check and make minor changes myself regularly. If nothing else, learning where it is after done professionally and the means to check it yourself later are worth knowing.

Not a bad idea. I just tend to trust certain things to the professionals but a double check sounds like a smart move.

BTW, just got news the hub was toast but Lithia had one in stock so it still should be done today. :)

Doubt it. I really have no idea what's in the parts dept. since I don't work in there, but I do recall having to order them for Matt.

Drove the car back from Fernley. The "Nissan Bearing" went in without issue. However, I'm experiencing at least two issues. Firstly, the car pulls to the left now. He said they marked the camber bolts (remember I have an aftermarket cam bolt in the bottom hole and OEM in the top) plus they marked the knuckle so the alignment shouldn't be an issue. The car is also way more "darty" which I assume means toe out. :unamused: Hopefully I can get the car in to have the other front bearing done soon and then get an alignment.

Secondly, the ABS engages right before coming to a stop. I feel the pedal pulse and go lower so I know it's the ABS. Hopefully I can simply clean some grease out of the ABS sensor and that fixes it. Remember the ABS light came on when I had the bearing failure at the track and Cory said it could be grease in the sensor or on the tone ring. I also still need to replace the rotor and probably pads. I'll probably just do pads on both corners since Kevin W hooked me up with a set.

Took the car to Cory today along with another FW105 bearing and some Mobil-1 Red Synthetic Grease. He immediately noticed (visually) that I had positive camber on the wheel that Auto Doc's had worked on. Those F'ers said they marked the camber bolts and the knuckle, but Cory said the camber bolt was installed all cockeyed... :unamused:

So I've got two new "Nissan Bearings" and a fresh alignment. Cory says it drives great! Gonna go pick it up now. W00t!

Wish you had taken some pictures of the bearing... Did you hang onto the box? Just wondering how it was labeled.

Check that the steering wheel is straight. Cory is known to be a little twisted. :)

The box was labled, FW105. But apparently that number has been superceeded to another number (FW 176?, I'll post it later) according to NAPA. I grabbed the FW105 from Kragen just to be safe but I probably have the superceded part on the other side anyway since that's where Auto Doc's bought the bearing (NAPA). They're probably identicle.

Hey Dean, I believe it should read CR1, not CRI, above.

And FW105 has been superceeded by FW176 according to NAPA. I probably have a FW176 on the left and I definintely have a FW105 on the right since that's how the box was labled.

Simply because it came up earlier, the bearing that went into the car yesterday had a nylon roller cage, not metal. And I still have no idea what the actual factory Nissan part has, because we don't have one in stock...

Napa is wrong, FW176 is not a superceed, it is the stock bearing and appears as a "substitute" on a cross reference for the FW105 which is the harder bearing.

You have one of each now, so you are our guinea pig. Please keep rack of all left and right turns, average G-load and duration should do so we can track actual loading over time until failure. :)

And no, it won't kill your car to have one of each.

Who knows what I have on the left side. Auto Doc's are a bunch of yahoos and I don't trust them any further than I can throw them.

Should have let me go load it in the trailer and take it to Cory. :P

Hey, I was wondering if this is still accurate or is there anything new i should know?

That's still accurate. You can order them from Nissan. I got at least one of mine from Kragen using the SKF part number. Napa tries to sell you the wrong one. I don't think they're that much more expensive through Nissan though. If you can wait a couple days for them to come in.

Repack the bearing with Mobil-1 Synthetic red grease, also available from Kragen.