Originally Posted by MattR

Thats right :twisted: i am exploring options to buy a drum of race gas, does anyone else have any interest? Post here and I'll reply with details as they become available.

Originally Posted by MattR

Really? I read somewhere else that people noticed performance gains with 100 in their Sti in stock trim, but maybe its not worth it. Hmm? I'll need to read up a bit.

Originally Posted by MattR

Sweet...i doubt I'll pursue the race gas thing then

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

I don't know about your cars, but with a system like mine the extra octane is just a safety factor... I'm gonna be watching my car real closely this summer, after going through the 105* Atwater event last year where it almost blew up it was pinging so bad. If I can't get rid of the pinging any other way this summer I'll start using 100 octane.

Originally Posted by sperry

Well you could dial back the advance a touch right? You'd think with the extra flow of your new intake, even if you backed off a bit on the timing, you'd still be making more power than you were before the intake manifold, right?

Or you could just come and race with us up here! The altitude will easily stop your pinging! :lol:

As far as race gas, I believe there's a place out in sparks that sells 100. But unless you're like Kevin who will have a race gas ECU map that you can easily switch over to, you'll need to run it 24/7 so the ECU will adapt to it. That's expensive... pretty much plan on doubling your monthly gas expenses... and I'm still not sure you'd notice a lot of power.

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

I'm not sure if you were talking to me or the other WRX guys with that last part... my ECU doesn't adapt to anything. :lol: If I use higher octane it'll be pretty easy, just run the tank down to 2 or 3 gallons before an event, mix in an equal amount of 100 oct., and I've got 95-96 insta-octane for the race. The Monument auto parts store here in Livermore sells the Union-76 "Cool-Blue" 100 octane race gas.

Originally Posted by sperry

I was talking to the WRX guys. I'm surprised you car even *has* an ECU. :P

Originally Posted by ZER026D

There is a way to make your ECU adjust your timing in 5 seconds. All you have to do is get going on a some where that there is no cars. First get going about 30-35 in 3rd gear. Hear is the tricky part you need to do a little left foot braking. Your going to try to keep your speed at 30-35 while building 6-8 psi of boost for 5-8 seconds. Your timing will advance up to 12 degrees. We tested this on my car with VAGCOM on pump gas in the middle of summer in Arizona we saw mine advance 6 degrees. The WRX is one of the first cheap car's with a octain senser you just have to adjust it. That is why the dealer says you car will get fast in time and why people say there car is slower after reseting the ECU. :D

Originally Posted by Shiv at Vishnu

Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!

Cheers,
shiv
www.vishnutuning.com

Originally Posted by Dean

I have an empty 30Gal, and an unopened but 3 year old 30Gal of 100 octane unleaded in my garage as well as the pump thingy etc... Don't ask.

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

Hope that 3 yr old stuff isn't expensive varnish by now... :lol:

Originally Posted by Dean

Otherwise, I'm not sure how you get rid of 30 gallons of varnish...

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

*WHOOOMP*

"Whoa, where did Art's eyebrows go?" :lol:

Originally Posted by ArthurS

Funny things is that has almost happened once. Little to much gasoline on the palets (sp?).

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

BUMP... so where is the place in Sparks that sells the 100octane gas? Once I get my conversion done I'm gonna want to know...