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Dean's STX shopping list
Revised 4/7 1750
OK, there is some stuff in my garage, but to give the rest of you a run for your money, it is almost time to get some stuff on order and installed. Since I am spending all this time figuring stuff out, I figured I'd post it for comments, or for other people to use. I'll probably add prices and sources as I find them. Any good sources appreciated. * = already have... Suspension: * Sway Bars: Hotchkis Street hollow 1" adjustable with end links and upgraded brackets. Other bushings: ??? Energy suspension $135??? Strut Bars: ???? Don't know if I really need these Is a $200 bar really better than a $50 bar? * Camber Castor plates: Ground Control Front * Coilovers: DMS 50s * Rear adjustable lateral links: Hotchkis Engine: * Spare ECU: Ebay.... * Flash: ECUTec by S-Squared * Mounts: STI Group N Engine mounts, and Pitch Stopper * Underdrive pulleys: Generic * Intake: Drop in filter Headers: Stock (Stone Mountain build quality was not good) * UpPipe: S-Squared (Stone Mountain build quality was not good) * Turbo Back Exhaust: BPM split exit Brakes: * Stoptech BBK (not yet installed) * lines: Stainless of some sort (not yet installed) * Pads: EBC Green/Red *, Axxis Ultimate Wheels/Tires * Wheels: 17x8 Sprco N1 clones (Don't quite fit over Stoptech brakes) * Tires: Falken Azenis Sports Other * Harnesses: Scroth Rallye 3: 4 point * Seats: Stock (Kirkey race seat not installed, over 15lb.) * Guages: PSI^3 Dash Pod Mount (Not installed yet) * Shifter: Short with bushings (Not installed yet) |
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You definitely need boost and EGT gauges, other than that, everything is monitored by the ECU. I will have booost, EGT, oil temp, and coolant temp. might also add gear oil temp and fuel pressure (3rd most important). Quote:
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Sounds like a pretty complete list... but the cost of the Hotchkis stuff seems really high! I guess the hollow bar has an advantage.. but for under $500 I got front and rear bars, mounts and endlinks....
Also, be carefull with lateral links... most have pillowball bushings, which are illegal in STX, since you can't replace any bushings with metal. I don't know the Hotchkis links in detail, but I've yet to see adjustable links w/o pillowballs. You shouldn't need front camber bolts, the car's already got some that are good enough to get plenty of camber for the street, and the camber plates that tend to come with coil-overs will give you more than enough race-day camber. You should be fine w/ just reflashing the stock ECU, no need to drop $500+ on a second one. Go to S-Squared once they get their dyno for tuninng.... it's close and you can get your suspension done there too. Or hustle w/ your engine mods and follow me down to ESX next weekend... :lol: Oh, and I'd guess the difference between expensive and cheap STBs is just how nice they look. After all, they're just bars. I think Cusco makes one that tri-angulates in the trunk, but I think it's illegal in STX because the rules only allow for ataching strut top to strut top... |
w00t, IBsperry and he pretty much echoed me. Good catch on the spherical bearings though, I forgot about that. Whiteline links (which I saw up close yesterday before they went on Nate's coupe) use urethane. I personally tell people to avoid sphericals because they are noisier than urethane and don't last as long, they cost more, and they wear out sooner.
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I have the headers already, and KC is running them, so I will probably put them on when the uppipe goes on. It would be cool to do before and after Dyno runs. I may have S-Squared do all the installs so we can do stuff like that. Thanks for the additional Guage list. I like the Ford heavy duty fluid... Cheap and good. Seats are currenlty stock, but I have a Kirkey race seat sitting in the garrage. I will need to weigh it. I listed the other suspension bushings, but are steering rack legal? Same ? on rear diff bushings? I think if you do aluminum control arms, you can't do camber plates. And I'm pretty sure you can't do the under brace, or rear 3 point strut bar. Oh, and I bet having multiple maps loaded would get you protested if either had boost mods. no matter which one is loaded. |
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I plan on getting a sway bar, harness and:
Driving better. hopefully the coilovers on your cars don't outclass me. :x I was getting close to Scott end of last year. |
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I was able to beat everyone in STX except Scott, who got me by 3 tenths. but John Evans' DS prepped Rex got all of us. With a softer suspension, you just have to be that much smoother. Moving your hands slower, anticipating the weight transfer better, and upsetting the car as little as possible. This year we get to ride as well, so get out and ride with other drivers in other classes and watch their body in addiiton to the track. Want my old cat back when it comes off?. |
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Yah I'll take it Dean, your car sounds nice even on the highway.
I like how Scott dib'd the grill and the catback for me :lol: |
The pitch stop mounts to the trannie and the firewall.
I agree with BAN SUVS about the crank pully. Lightened not underdriven. You probbaly want to avoid any of the potentian problems. :wink: |
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Does it really even matter what it's attached to? It's called a "pitch mount" not a "tranny mount" in the service manual, so isn't it covered by the "bobble strut" rule and not the tranny mount rule? I guess I need someone to define what a "bobble strut" really is. |
Sounds like Prodrive's highly skilled bounty hunter. :lol:
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I couldn't find a definitive answer on nasioc, or sccaforums, so I asked on nasioc.. We will see if I get a useful answer.
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It bolts to the trannie. I've had motors in and out of my car like 10 times. It bolts up at the very front of the bell housing. Somebopdy go look at there car. :P
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My point is that even if it attaches to the tranny, it's not a "transmission mount" unless it's labeled as such in the service manual. If a "pitch mount" == a "bobble strut" then it's legal in STX regardless of where it attaches. If not, then it's open to interpretation. |
Yeah, it's definetly a pitch stop mount. It doesn't support the trannie in anyway.
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