Rotors, blank, slotted, drilled?
 

I just replaced my brake pads, and got my rotors turned, and found out my front rotors are warped. :(

As you all know (or don't) I Auto cross, Rally cross, and some occasional track days.

Should I stick with Blanks Or go to slotted, drilled, or drilled+Slotted? an explanation would be nice, but i trust the senior seccs members enough to blindly follow at this point. (lemming status has been achieved!)

I've had great luck with the DBA Slotted 1pc rotors. They're somewhat affordable and have held up quite well.

Also, Dean found some discount generic brand rotor that I would try, since they're so cheap, I'll look for the link later.

First off, your rotors do not "warp"- ask Caroll Smith, author of numerous awesome race car/driving information books.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Second, I would say plain or slotted- definitely not drilled. Plains is best for autocross, slotted can help at the track, but honestly if you have the right pads it's far from necessary. I have no real argumetns against slots though. The traits I would shop rotors on are vein/venting design, material (good luck getting any har dinfo on their smelting process!) and then price if there are multiple rotors that satisfied me on the other criteria.

Awesome brake info:

http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
http://www.geocities.com/nosro/abs_faq/
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/arc...hp/t-1122.html

And of course... Let's talk about brakes! Best tech thread on this board, hands down.

The turning should have unwarped them if there is such a thing as warped in the first place.

There are an infinite number of references on this.

The short answer is blank, or slotted unless you have a huge need for the additional cooling of drilled and can afford the cheese grater effect on pad life and the tendency for cracking on all but cast in holes.

Slotted will wipe moisture, and pad sluff which is good at minor cost to pad life.

Blank will be cheapest and best pad live.

For your frequent cold/wet use, I would suggest slotted.

Prices on STI rotors are down under $200 for a front set, and under $150 for rears, so it is no longer a super big deal if you don't like them.

*frantically clicks on provided links*

Thanks :)

I like sloted+drilled look nice on the car but I only auto-x no TT and it's still have many hair linecracks. I heard that do not use the e-brake after hot lap it might warp the rear rotors. I just park my car in gear after the hot lap.

I donot turn my rotors just changing the pads.

I think all Subarus use drum brakes (RE: different pads and friction surface) for the E-Brake. I actually bring my car to a stop only with the e-brake when I come off the track.

Some slotted rotors would sure look nice Alex. As long as they aren't much more expensive, I'd get some of those.

I'd suggest using the actual brakes when coming off track.

The "e-brake" is really a *parking brake*... I wouldn't use it while rolling for anything less than an actual emergency. Plus, replacing the shoes in those is a huge PITA.

Yeah, there's nothing wrong with using your discs coming off track. What do you think racecars use? Most have no parking brake system at all. Just try to avoid clamping down on the brakes when the wheels have come to a full stop.

It's just because the R4-S's get a real work out and I don't want them xfering material to the disk and causing pulsing. It's not going to wear out the e-brake pads if I use them to come to a stop from a slow role.

You made it sound like you're using the e-brake on your cool down lap instead of the discs. :lol:

If you say so. ;)

I do really like the look of Drilled & Slotted also.

sounds like some slotted will be great for me , esp with lots of snow driving (hopefully) in my near future :) hopefully i can find a good deal on some . Trying to work with a possible new connection, he was showing a slotted disc for 70$ which makes me think they found the RS or WRX size, as i've had a few car places do already.

Function > Form

+1

lol, I think to own a Subaru, you have to subscribe to that belief. :P

I got a full set of fronts and rears for < $300 shipped to Reno a month or so ago, so $70 / rotor is reasonable...

I try, but it's hard sometimes when I see nothing under my hoodscoop. :(

Try padding it with a rolled up pair of socks.

Did you ever read that thread about the guy that used socks in place of an oil cap in his M3?

Hey, don't get me wrong, MY Subaru is sexy as HELL, but only out of coincidence... :lol:

<wagon comment>

</wagon comment>

So I've got 96K on the car and am still on the original rotors. They don't pulse at all and have never been turned. They do have grooves from normal wear, but nothing crazy and judging by the lip where the pad doesn't contact the rotor, they seem like they have plenty of meat left on them. I wish I had a micrometer. Maybe I should pick one up.

But OEM blanks are only like $125 shipped and I'm about to do new R4-S pads on all 4 corners (well actually, I might go back to the stock pads for the Winter since they have over 50% left). Any reason to consider new rotors for the new pads? Anyone know the min. and OEM Thickness for front and rear rotors?

Min thickness should be stamped or cast into the rotor.

Pick up a cheap digital caliper at Harbor Freight.

If they are not down to minimum, it might be time to turn them to go with the new pads.

$125/pair or each? A pair it is a fair price, each it is a rip-off...

Pair. Okay, thanks. I'm not a big fan of turning rotors though. I can never find a place that does it on the weekends, you end up with less heat sync material, pulsing always comes back, etc, and it's just too much of a hassle when new ones are so inexpensive.