Maintain your coilovers!!!...
 

As proof that Coilovers just like normal shocks need regular maintenance and wear out, I thought I'd post this.

In the process of prepping my DMS 50s to send them out to be "rebuilt", I found that at least two of them will be MAJOR rebuilds.(#3s)

In case you didn't know, there are usually 3 levels of coilover rebuild.

1. Dismantle housings, clean, relube and put back together. (For monotubes mostly)

2. #1 + replace the bushings between the two cylinders. (For Invertedes mostly)

3. #2 + dismantle the damper itself. service valves, replace fluid, repressurize, etc.

In about 5K track miles and 25K street miles, both of my rear dampers are bad.

One of them is leaking like a sieve out of the damper shaft seal and into the lower housing. The other has at minimum lost pressurization.

The fronts appear OK and will likely be OK with #2 but will let the professionals check them out.

So for those of you who have coilovers and especially if you track them, I would suggest you get them checked out every year...

throw them in the gutter and get another.

That is one of the options I am contemplating. #1 is $100, #2 $562 per strut ($CAD), so the rebuild may be much harsher than I was expecting.

What's involved in checking them out? Just send them somewhere or check for things on your own?

In most cases, if you are remotely handy, you can do #1 yourself. Your manufacturer should have documentation for it.

Warning / disclaimer: Struts contain fluid and gasses under pressure that can propel themselves and parts at high velocity if handled incorrectly. Follow the instructions below at your own risk.


As you work on the struts, look for any dirt or oily residue build up anywhere along the struts. This could be an indication of fluid leaking.

Take them out of the car. Before you take off the springs, measure where the spring seats are relative to a fixed point on the body for each shock so you can put them back after cleaning.

Take off the springs.

Before you go any further, flex the setup to check for any slop in the bushings or play in the shaft.

If they are inverted, you will want to undo the retaining bolt from the bottom of the strut to release the damper insert.

Again, check for play in the shaft.

Clean everything with solvent, etc. try not to get anything to caustic near any of the seals.

Once everything is clean, check damper throw and rebound at different settings. Lefts and rights should feel the same on either end of the car, but front - rear may be different.

Inspect all the bushings and seals for wear, cracking, etc.

Check the shafts for straightness and wear. If they are even slightly bent, or look unpolished, have them professionally inspected.

Check the bodies for dents and dings. anything more than chipped paint is probably the death of that component.

Not sure if there is a shock dyno in town, but if there is, you could get them tested.

Touch up any missing paint, use the right grease and put everything back together except the spring. Check one more time for shaft / body play / slop as well as checking for smooth and even compression and rebound as before.

This is probably an all day job to do all 4 corners right, but doing it once a year can probably save you money in the long run as well as protecting your safety by finding problems before they become failures, or accidents.

Pshhh! :P

Sure, it would be faster in a shop with a lift by yourself. I was assuming a driveway or garage, missing tools, late start, other SECCS members "helping", milkshakes, etc... :P

thanks dean.