Normal Temps - Leaking Hose
 

so I have noticed a little green fluid leaking from a hoses hear the radiator cap. I have been watching the temps ever since the MBC and nothig has been to high. I thought maybe low on oil, so I did a oil change and still was leaking. So, I replaced the clamp with one of those screw-tighten ones, and haven't noticed anything since.

Should this be a issue? I don't want to just tighten down this hoses, then have the pressure get diverted to another one. any advice?

Re: Normal Temps - LEaking Radiator Hose
 

If it was green fluid leaking from a hose near the radiator... then you've got about a 99.999% chance it's a coolant hose. :lol: The water and oil systems are completely separate, so low oil or anything else like that won't affect the coolant system (if the water & oil ever are mixing, you've most likely got some $eriou$ engine problems). Sounds like it was just a leaking clamp, and you fixed the leak when you replaced the clamp. You don't have to worry about screwing up system pressures by fixing leaks.

A small pic of which hose it is:

Yea its green fluid.

And....I had a 'check engine' light 2 days in a row. I did a oil change last night, and it hasn't come back. Maybe because I was low on oil? Coolant is at full.

I can't really tell anything from that picture, it's kinda small & I haven't been around WRX's enough to recognize individual engine parts like that from memory. :oops: Again, I don't really know about the WRX but most cars have a separate "low oil" light that comes on if the oil level sensor in the pan reads low.. "check engine" usually means other sensors are reading out of spec. Scott drives around with a CEL showing most of the time. :lol:

Yea, but Scott has a aftermarket exhaust. Mine is stock...nothing has been changed. Could I have a bad cat?

I dunno... I'm not going to pretend like I know all the computer inputs on a turbo WRX, that CEL could be a lot of different things. Oxygen sensor, intake air temp sensor, water temp sensor, boost pressure, etc. etc. etc... that car has sensors everywhere and I assume all of them could throw a CEL when out of spec. Check it out with a code reader? Or someone else who knows more about it *cough*Scott*cough* could chime in...

Sorry, been hard at work over here... :lol:

The CEL might be from hitting the boost cut? Did you have a boost spike up in the 17psi range on a cold night or anything? If you hit the stock fuel cut for max boost (17psi) then you'll get a CEL. You can either wait (after a certain number of "trips" the CEL will reset itself unless you hit the boost cut again) or you can disconnect the battery's neg. terminal and step on the brake for 5 seconds to erase the ECU's memory (after which the car will have to relearn your driving habits, and you'll lose your radio stations! :shock: )

It sounds like your oil change just happened to coincide with the ECU deciding the CEL was a one time event and turning if off itself. To really know what's up, you need to have the codes pulled. I hear Pep Boys will do it for free, but I can't verifiy that. One of these days I'll get a code puller of my own, since (like Austin said) I'm constantly throwing CELs... :lol: If you have a bad cat, you'll get the "catalytic converter inefficency" code which I believe is a P0420. Basically it means your exhaust is too cold according to the EGT, so it thinks your cat isn't working. I get this on my car, since my exhaust diameter is larger, the exhaust is cooler to the EGT. A simple resistor in place of the EGT sensor fixed that. :twisted:

As far as the leak, I think Austin's right, it looks like you just had a leaky hose, fixed with a better clamp. Because of your STi radiator cap, you might be running a bit more pressure in there that may have caused the clamp to be insufficient.

FYI Austin, that picture shows the coolant resivoir that sits above the turbo and provides the coolant to the turbo. After the car's off, fluid siphons off that little tank to cool the turbo even tho the water pump's not running. The pressure valve (i.e. radiator cap) for the cooling system is on that little resivoir.

I believe it was a boost cut. I noticed it this morning...no check engine light, hope on the freeway, huge shudder (like running out of gas), have boost again, but with a check engine light.

So I might have to look at adjusting the MBC down a notch.

Yeah, as the temp gets colder out, you'll have to keep turning the MBC down, and perhaps even take it off eventually, tho I was able to run it all last winter.

Sorry to hijack the thread but do you guys know where I can get a free CEL code pulled?

Rumor has it that Pep Boys will do it, but I've never heard specifically that the Reno Pep Boys has done it. Give 'em a call and find out, and let us know! ;)

:D
Went to Autozone on Virginia st. and got the code pulled and cleared for free. They also have an OBD II scanner that they're selling for around $150. Anyway, for all your CEL needs, go to Autozone (I sound like an ad) :lol:

Awesome dude! Good info!

What was the code BTW?

The always pulled P0420 code :lol:

:lol: figures.... :roll: