Subaru Enthusiasts Car Club of the Sierras

Subaru Enthusiasts Car Club of the Sierras (https://www.seccs.org/forums/index.php)

- Technical Chat (https://www.seccs.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11)

- - Timing belt (https://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8488)

I'm getting ready to change out my timing belt and all the recommended components with it....

Is this kit a good deal? --> http://www.jscspeed.com/wrx/engine/gates_oem.htm

Also, is there anyone out there who would be willing to lend a hand checking the alignment of the belt (I feel comfortable doing just about everything but checking that and tensioning it...). I can pay in cash or beer.

Thanks

Those prices are okay, but I can get you a better price.

Do you want an OEM belt or the better blue Gates performance belt? Do you need all the replacement pulleys or just the belt? Water pump too?

If your car is high mileage then consider doing the water pump at the same time.

The car has about 108,500 on it - I want to do it right. I don't need the high performance belt, the stock one lasted just fine for all those miles.....

What would you recommend replacing?

Thanks

I would definitely do the Timing Belt and Water Pump. The pulleys are probably alright, but I dunno if they would last to 200k miles. Anybody else have an opinion?

Maybe also at least inspect the oil pump, since it is buried beneath all the timing stuff.

I would do water pump, all pulleys, tensioner, all belts (assuming they're original), and thermostat. I also replaced with OEM coolant and conditioner. And don't forget the waterpump seal and thermostat seal. Some also do the front crank seal, but I didn't bother because apparently it's a bitch to remove and replace. I actually have the crank seal if you want it since I didn't do it.

This is the DIY I used.

And this is what I posted to that thread after I was done:

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody8675309 (Post 2476436)

Great DIY. A couple things, having followed it this weekend to do my first timing belt ever.

Use a silver marker to mark the timing belt on it's edge. The lines on the OEM belt don't translate to the marks on the gears as well as they do when you add a mark on the edge.

Use a small mirror to check if the lower marks are aligned correctly. From above, the angle really makes it hard to tell.

I ordered all of the idlers and the tensioner as well as the crank seal, the thermostat, the water pump and corresponding seals and gaskets. The only idler that showed any wear was the very small one near the top right. The idlers and the tensioner all looked new but I replaced them anyway. NOTE: One of the idlers has been superceeded (bottom left with red ring) to the exact same one that is above and to the right of it. So when you order all idlers, you'll get two of part 13073AA142. One looks identicle to the part it's replacing, the other doesn't. I didn't know this until I called the online dealer that sold me the parts and told him he'd made a mistake. He said the only mistake he'd made was forgetting to tell me about one part superceeding another.

I skipped replacing the crank seal. Mine looked perfect and I understand they're a real ***** to remove so I said F it.

I would start the DIY by jacking up the front of the car and putting it on jackstands. Then you'll want to remove the plastic undertray. This gives you access to the lower PS fan plug and drain ****. You can skip the drain**** and just pull the lower hose though. Otherwise it takes forever to drain and I understand that the drane ****s can leak or break easily. Plus they drain the coolant all over the subframe and you get coolant everywhere. In addition to a pan, have a large rag or ten standing by.

Um, what else? Oh, one of the large cogs didn't want to stay as the valve springs kept pushing it one way or the other and a ratchet can only be locked in one direction so we used the breaker bar on it which helped a lot.

Oh, the best way to remove the crank bolt is to have a friend put it in 5th gear (6th in an STi) and step on the brake while you use a breaker bar on it. Works great.

I also broke the plastic part of the AC belt tensioner because I neglected to loosen the bolt that goes through the wheel on the tensioner before trying to loosen the tension by spinning the long bolt that is the tensioner. Make sure you loosen the necesary bolts before adjusting both belt tensioners. It was only $6 at the local dealer though and fortunately it was in stock.

Oh, and we didn't remove any of the belt guides. It's not necessary since the belt just slides off the front of the idlers they're installed around. :)

Thanks again for a really good DIY. Seriously, the pictures and diagrams are really great. I tried to use the text only version I'd printed out and I ended up bringing the laptop out to the garage.

:thumbup:

At > 100K, I'd do them all. Having to open everything up again to do any 10K from now will just be a pain and piss you off.

Matt, what are the different belts worth? OEM/Performance?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean (Post 144487)

At > 100K, I'd do them all. Having to open everything up again to do any 10K from now will just be a pain and piss you off.

Matt, what are the different belts worth? OEM/Performance?

I am waiting for a price quote on the regular OEM-quality Gates belt. There are lots of companies making those belts besides gates too.

The Gate Racing Kevlar performance belt is $104. It is rebranded by Cusco and one other company (I forget), but this one is much less expensive.

My car was bought with 99k and now has 112k on it. I have been worried about the timing belt since day one but because all the plugs/wires and serpentine are pretty new I kind of have a feeling it was already done.
Are there any quick ways to tell if the belt was replaced other than taking apart the front of the car?

Quote:

Originally Posted by norbeaster (Post 144510)

If a dealer did it, it might be in the Subaru database which some dealer might be willing to check. I can't recall, but if it is a 60k item, it is almost time for another one anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean (Post 144514)

I can't recall, but if it is a 60k item, it is almost time for another one anyway.

I feel you on that one...
In that case, could I add to that order for a kit? Better safe than sorry I suppose.

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklesplitter (Post 144502)

The Gate Racing Kevlar performance belt is $104. It is rebranded by Cusco and one other company (I forget), but this one is much less expensive.

Power Enterprise, if memory serves.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sybir (Post 144517)

Power Enterprise, if memory serves.

This.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean (Post 144514)

If a dealer did it, it might be in the Subaru database which some dealer might be willing to check. I can't recall, but if it is a 60k item, it is almost time for another one anyway.

The timing belt is a 105K miles item as per my owner's manual. You can see all dealer work done if you register on www.mysubaru.com.

We did a timing belt job on a wrx using the cheap ebay $220 kit and it was nice. Another wrx we got the belt only from our local napa, took it apart and ended up replacing all the idlers, tensioner and pump. the same r&r parts list as the ebay kit. Low and behold every part was the same right down to the gmb bearings. After waiting for the wrong parts the car got put back together after 2 days. The napa bill exceeded $600 and jefe lost his ass.

get the cheap ebay kit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubberbiscuitt (Post 144563)

That ebay kit does look like a good deal. Is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...Q5fAccessories

There is one available without the water pump too.

that kit looks like everything you need.. like everyone has been saying.. timing belts are due at 105k on all subaru models (ex h6). there are 3 corners that have guides on them with 5mm hex head bolts. youll want to make sure that those are spaced with a credit card or something of similar thickness, and same with the timing belt guide located above the crank sprocket. any questions just hit me up.. i just did one last night and we do them all the time at my shop too. so if you need a last minute pully or tensioner.. we stock everything to get it done.

Just a minor comment. When re-assembling my motor I reused the timing belt tensioner. A drill press worked nicely to compress it (slowly) in the vertical orientation. Not sure why vertical is part of the protocol; I suppose it may have to do with avoiding a trapped internal air bubble or something.

Nothing wrong with that if you don't mind the slight risk.

It's more than slight. The Outback I just picked up blew up one head because the mechanic who did the timing belt reused the tensioner. It failed less than 10k later and slipped teeth on the gear. Passenger side head was destroyed. Personally, I would (and do) spring for the $65 part over risking the motor.

I just found out that I have a timing belt problem too. My belt is squeaking and I'm fairly certain that it needs to be tightened... I'm not sure where to start...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeikun (Post 146039)

I just found out that I have a timing belt problem too. My belt is squeaking and I'm fairly certain that it needs to be tightened... I'm not sure where to start...

That's not the timing belt squeaking... it's probably an accessory belt. The timing belt has an auto-tensioner on it that you can't adjust.

You're probably right... my AC makes some terrifying noises when I turn it on at idle...

Yeah, just because something was taken off with a pry bar doesn't mean that it needs to be put back on with one. :lol: