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-   -   WTB: Black or Bronze Lugnuts and 3mm wheel spacers (https://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8778)

cody 2010-05-03 09:57 AM

WTB: Black or Bronze Lugnuts and 3mm wheel spacers
 
If nobody has any lying around, I'll probably hit up eBay tonight.

I think I only need 2 spacers (just for the front).

As for the lugs, my old ones are ready to be replaced, especially since I lost the wheel lock key AGAIN and plan to use a hammer and a specialized socket to remove them.

cody 2010-05-03 10:42 AM

Also, anyone know any good brands of aluminum lugs? My current set is Duralumin brand, but I don't think they are available anymore. The black paint or whatever it is was very resilient and they have withstood a ton of use.

MattR 2010-05-03 11:53 AM

I may have some lugs for you, I'll check when I get home.

I may have some red one's, would you like those ricer?

cody 2010-05-03 12:12 PM

Are they that metallic-y chrome looking red? Ew. I'd prefer black.

Kevin M 2010-05-03 12:26 PM

I'll trade my black Rays lugnuts for a set of 2-piece spline drives.

cody 2010-05-03 12:44 PM

I'll trade some rear Porterfield R4-S pads for MY04+ (and some MY03) WRX's for some Rays lugs.

Should I use steel lugs if I'm going to use 3mm spacers? Seems like they'd be stronger.

Any reason I shouldn't run 3mm spacers in the front, but none in the rear? I can't imagine it would cause any problems.

sperry 2010-05-03 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody (Post 148732)
I'll trade some rear Porterfield R4-S pads for MY04+ (and some MY03) WRX's for some Rays lugs.

Should I use steel lugs if I'm going to use 3mm spacers? Seems like they'd be stronger.

Any reason I shouldn't run 3mm spacers in the front, but none in the rear? I can't imagine it would cause any problems.

A slightly wider front track should help counter understeer a little. Not sure that 6mm wider total trackwidth will be noticeable though, but IIRC the STi does have a little wider track up front vs. the WRX specifically for that reason, so there should be some merit to doing it.

I'd just run some open-ended steel lugs. They're strong, cheap, unobtrusive looking, and you can see the thread depth you're getting with the spacers in there.

Also, if you want some extended lugs, I've got the set that came with the wheel spacers I'm running on the SVX. I wasn't super happy with them compared to the ARPs I have on the WRX, so I just went with the ARPs for the SVX too, leaving me with a set of +15mm lugs. They're yours for nothin' if you need 'em.

cody 2010-05-03 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry (Post 148733)
A slightly wider front track should help counter understeer a little. Not sure that 6mm wider total trackwidth will be noticeable though, but IIRC the STi does have a little wider track up front vs. the WRX specifically for that reason, so there should be some merit to doing it.

I'd just run some open-ended steel lugs. They're strong, cheap, unobtrusive looking, and you can see the thread depth you're getting with the spacers in there.

Also, if you want some extended lugs, I've got the set that came with the wheel spacers I'm running on the SVX. I wasn't super happy with them compared to the ARPs I have on the WRX, so I just went with the ARPs for the SVX too, leaving me with a set of +15mm lugs. They're yours for nothin' if you need 'em.

Huh. Free longer studs (no homo) sound great, but the fact that you didn't like the look of 'em worries me. I don't want to cheap out on something so important for safety. Maybe bring them to the meet on Thursday if you're going to be there so I can check them out?

Kevin M 2010-05-03 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody (Post 148732)
I'll trade some rear Porterfield R4-S pads for MY04+ (and some MY03) WRX's for some Rays lugs.

Should I use steel lugs if I'm going to use 3mm spacers? Seems like they'd be stronger.

Any reason I shouldn't run 3mm spacers in the front, but none in the rear? I can't imagine it would cause any problems.

I'd take them if you have calipers for them to spare, otherwise they don't help me much. I just figured 2-piece Gorilla lugs would be cheaper than new aluminum ones.

k-dogg39 2010-05-03 01:41 PM

I think I have some open ended ones if you are interested. I can check tonight. They are silver though.

sperry 2010-05-03 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody (Post 148734)
Huh. Free longer studs (no homo) sound great, but the fact that you didn't like the look of 'em worries me. I don't want to cheap out on something so important for safety. Maybe bring them to the meet on Thursday if you're going to be there so I can check them out?

One looks like there's a little corrosion on it, and another looks like it was hit by something and will need a little bit of cleanup with a die (which I've got). There's probably nothing wrong with them, but since I had a set of ARPs right there new in the package, I just just decided to use the nicer lugs instead.

See:

Ichiba on the left, ARP on the right:
http://www.seccs.org/gallery/Car%20P...iba_vs_arp.jpg

And with the wheel on:
http://www.seccs.org/gallery/Car%20P..._arp_wheel.jpg

That's with a 15mm spacer... a 3mm spacer is going to make those Ichiba lugs look massive.

cody 2010-05-03 02:16 PM

Thanks for posting those, Scott. Shit, I'll do 5mm spacers if I have longer lugs. How difficult are they to install?

Thanks for the offer, Kevin W., but I already have some chrome steel lugs that came with the Enkei's when I bought them. I just really hate chrome.

sperry 2010-05-03 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody (Post 148738)
Thanks for posting those, Scott. Shit, I'll do 5mm spacers if I have longer lugs. How difficult are they to install?

Thanks for the offer, Kevin W., but I already have some chrome steel lugs that came with the Enkei's when I bought them. I just really hate chrome.

It's super easy if the hub is off the car and you have a press (that's how I did mine). It's a noisy, sweaty process to do them on the car... you basically have to put an old lugnut on the end of the lug and pound it out with a big hammer.

Installing the new ones is easy with an air-wrench and an open ended lug and some washers, just zap them with the gun and they pull into position:

http://www.seccs.org/gallery/Car%20P...alling_lug.jpg

van 2010-05-03 03:13 PM

Replacing them on the car isn't too difficult with a small propane torch and a hammer (not a hatchet, Alex).

szucchet 2010-05-03 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattR (Post 148729)
I may have some lugs for you, I'll check when I get home.

I may have some red one's, would you like those ricer?

i want some red one if you want to sell the and cody does not want them

MattR 2010-05-03 05:55 PM

OKay, sorry, the black ones are not a complete set, so that's no good.

Silvio, I can't finds the red ones, if I do , I'll let you know.

ryan4601 2010-05-03 08:34 PM

I have a set of used black Muteki closed end spline drive lugs. They are used so they aren't perfect, but I have a full set with the key if you are interested. I'll take $20.
Ryan

A1337STI 2010-05-03 09:27 PM

:(

what about a smaller more refined hatchet?

cody 2010-05-04 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan4601 (Post 148746)
I have a set of used black Muteki closed end spline drive lugs. They are used so they aren't perfect, but I have a full set with the key if you are interested. I'll take $20.
Ryan

Cool, I'd love to check them out. I actually have some off-brand black spline drive lugs that have already lost the majority of their black paint over the past winter...so they have to at least look better than those.

Can everyone who offered me stuff in this thread please bring it to the meet on Thursday so I can check it all out in person?

Kevin M., bring those Black Rays lugs and maybe we can strike a cash deal?

Kevin M 2010-05-04 11:45 AM

Sure, I'll bring them to the meet.


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