Auto-X tires - VictoRacers good?
 

Sorry if this is the wrong thread.... (please move if it fits somewhere else)

I just decided to check out TireRack for snow tires, and, as long as I'm there, some summer/auto-x tires. Found 2007 production Kumho VictoRacers in 225/45R17 for $100 a piece.

I know the VictoRacer is a decent tire from what I've read on ClubWRX, but how does it do up here in our heat, and on our surgaces?

Is the 2007 production going to be an issue?

Is it going to be out-of-spec?

From my understanding, tires over 5 or 7 years are a no-no due to dry rot, separation, degradation, etc. But is 2007 OK? Would it meet SCCA regs?

Is it worth it?


I'm sure I have at least another summer on my used RE070s. But, if I start auto-x-ing the car, I'm sure I'll burn through them pretty quickly, so I'm thinking pick them up, store them until the RE070s go, have the freshies mounted.

I guess another big question here, is if I end up making most of the auto-x events next year, will I be burning through a set of new tires by the end of the season?


(If I'm out a grand in tires a year, I won't be making many events)

Victoracers are decent tires... though I guess the v710's are a bit better for autocross. The problem is, they're 3 years old. I'm sure they're safe, but they're probably going to be less sticky than a new set of street tires. Plus, without any tread, they're going to suck at Stead's currently gravely surface. I'd say they're best used at at the race track... a cheap way to get some (brief) R-compound fun at RFR.

Also, most people tend to get like 80-90% of a season on a set of r-compounds. So you end up just short of a full season on tires. But Reno has a street tire modifier and a poor surface at Stead making the cost of r-comps pretty wasteful. Especially when street tires are setting faster raw times than r-comps. To put it more plainly, just get some good summer tires and some good winter tires... the summers will last you the whole season of autocross, plus all the daily driving in between, maybe even for 2 years; the winters will perform better in the off-season than all-season tires will.

That response is so full of win! Thanks for breaking that down in the exact words I needed.

(and I neglected to think of the street tire modifier, regardless of daily driving - was thinking of getting some 18s for the street)


I'll likely replace the RE070s when they're toast with some Star Specs, and stick with the 225 size as that's what fits in Street Prepared from my understanding. And, the wagon will like the smaller tread width.

I run 245/40/17 Starspecs on 17X8 +48 wheels on my wagon. I have rolled fenders and a lot of rear camber though.

Street Prepared allows unlimited width tires. Street Touring limits you to 245, I belive, but Street Prepared is better in Reno since we have the tire modifier. Not being able to up boost in ST would suck.

The surface at Stead isn't that bad anymore. It's not like concrete, but a good course doesn't stir up the gravel all that badly. And after another couple weeks of sweepers over every square inch of the course area, it might be downright good at this point.

I was pretty sure the rulebook stated limited to 225 width for Street Touring?

Not planning any major mods for this car other than suspension, K&N filter, silencer delete, and catback. I'd like to get it tuned as my understanding is the stock tune is poor, and major improvements can be made with a simple tune - but would rather have it tuned than get a Cobb AP for a "Stage 1". No real plans for big power. It's a driver, and I'm hoping to keep it simple for the next couple of years, and upgrade :D

Ahhhh - I reread the rules and got:



So my set up is correct for ST, STS, and STR, whatever that means as far as other mods :?:

The WRX runs in STX so it's 245.

Regardless, you want to up your boost...trust me. I suggest you do a DP and a catback, filter and silencer delete if you want, and then get a custom tune. Try to get all of the power mods in first, and then get the tune. Don't get a tune and then add an IC Y pipe a week later... Consider one step colder plugs and a Hallman Pro RX MBC too.

With most tuners now offering tunes using free open source software, you don't need to pay for an AccessPORT or anything anymore, just the tuner's time.

WTF???: Hallman Pro RX MBC

And the WRX is naturally placed in STX? (who's got a fender roller :D)

I was planning on going local for a tune, telling them my intentions, and going from there. Budget's no so great right now, the lady has plans :?:

Was thinking cat back to avoid tune, but not against a downpipe. And I'm a cheap bastard, and was likely going the ebay exhaust route unless I find something cheap, used, local.

I know the filter and silencer delete won't do much - I need a new air filter and everything else has a K&N, so the WRX should too, and while I'm there, adding a bit more intake sound without power loss or possible other issues like short ram heat intake or CAI water suck I thought the silencer sounded like a decent, and free alternative.

Stop wasting your time worrying about classing. You should be running Novice for the next 20 months or so. Seriously, run a full season in N and then start thinking about what class the car will be in. In all likelihood, the class rules will be completely different by 2012 anyway.

And aside from that, you have a turbo car... Street Touring is nonsense when Street Prepared allows boost modifications. To put it another way, you basically can't really even tune the car properly in STX because you have to leave the boost curve untouched. Whereas ESP allows all the stuff you want to do, including a proper tune that include tuning the boost curve.

But don't worry about it for a while. Worry about getting out there with what you've got and having fun!

My tuner suggested that MBC and I've run it for a couple years now. It really helps boost response, especially noticable in the lower gears. You'd only want to go that route if your tuner was okay with it.

Ebay is fine but just make sure it's a bellmouth or divorced waste gate, not a blocking plate like the stocker. Best would be to buy a good one used isntead of a crappy one new IMHO.

I think KSTech can roll fenders for a good price.

I just think it's a better bang for your buck to go stage 2 and then get tuned once...which is why I suggested the DP.

$150 DP

http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8979

Cory at KSpeed did a great job rolling my rear fenders on my wagon. Find them in the vendor section.

Thanks for the info - regarding my interest/concern in classing - I was building a Formula Vee car, and started work based on SCCA specs, so I was uber concerned with class regs. I gave that up when I realized I couldn't bring myself to dump $5k into building up a 40hp engine, and building a ball joint beam, 1600 car would be no better.


My intentions are to run Novice as long as possible, and run what I have (RE070s on 7.5) until they're shot.

Re 070s are great auto x tires.