Sorry, did not mean to seem to be offensive, or defensive, and do not want you to be either. There a a bunch of people with a lot of real life experience in getting these cars to handle on this board which I assume is why you made your post.
Again, ALK = good for a number of reasons. Go read the white papers and/or Unibomber stuff on it if you want more details.
But it is only so good. The base strut geometry of the car is less than ideal, and the ALK alone cannot compensate for it.
Since you have lowering springs, the roll center adjuster of either flavor is only going to get you back to the neighborhood of stock suspension geometry which still sucks, especially since your springs are not significantly stiffer than stock and are slightly underdamped and thus transfer weight faster than is likely ideal.
Will either of these items help? Maybe, but the question is will they accomplish what you want, and that is debatable.
My earlier point was that properly sized bars can mitigate and resolve issues and have a proven track record in doing so. Not sure I agree with Kevin's reasoning on why they get a bad rep. Most anybody who actually knows about tuning suspensions knows springs and sways have to be sized appropriately for the given application. Most folks who say one is better than the other are likely not actually aware of how they operate and interact.
By removing your higher spring rate coilovers, you have significantly reduced your roll resistance which forces you into bad roll geometry land and your springs which lower you to some degree have pushed you further into that. Without increasing spring rates, sways are the only way to minimize roll. These other items may make a difference, but I am not convinced they will make the difference you are looking for.
In this instance, I would say they are a "band aid" as they are not actually directly addressing the primary issue which is roll.
I just don't want you to spend $400 and not get the results you are hoping for.