I know my old lowering springs are not the greatest comparison and they did not lower it to 13 inchs. I agree that it would handle better if I raised it up, which is what I will do. I'm sure my tires go into positive camber when i'm cornering hard, no need for the attack, I never said I didn't believe you. I never auto-x'ed it, but if I did I would adjust the camber plates to get as much negative camber as possible. It should handle at least a little better than. Also, If I was riding with my front wheels at -2 degrees, the insides of my tires would not last. I would be going through tires quickly.
FYI,
Critically damped is when the spring settles to equilibrium position the fastest, without overshoot. Critically damped is inbetween under and overdamped, pretty much the best setting for a spring and damper(maybe not for comfort). For underdamped, zeta<1, crit zeta=1, overdamped zeta>1. Check this link out:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping
also here:
http://cat.sckans.edu/physics/shm.htm
You calculate zeta from k(spring rate), c(damping coef), and m(mass). If Megan designed the spring and damper, then they should have differential equations that solve for zeta at different damped setting. Therefore, they should know what the critically damped setting is. If I knew what that setting was, I would know were under and overdamped settings would be.
On most non performance cars, suspension is designed underdamped for comfort.
If I were to get softer springs, they would have more of a chance of being overdamped. The softest setting may work if I try this. It would cost $120 for the different springs and $80 for alignment. so the most I would lose is $200. Plus I would raise the car up for handleing purposes. The other choice is to get a completly different setup, so maybe this is worth a try.