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Old 2004-03-13, 01:13 AM   #2
Kevin M
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
 
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
Default Re: Dean's STX shopping list

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Suspension:
Sway Bars: Hotchkis Competition hollow 1" adjustable with end links and upgraded brackets. $500
Good stuff but you can get the job done for much less using Whiteline stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Rear adjustable lateral links: Hotchkis $350
Other bushings: ??? Energy suspension $135???
Camber Bolts(front only due to rear lateral links): Genreic, or OBX??? $30-$60
I'm not certain yet that adjustable links are really worth it. you can get a lot of toe with the factory links, and I'm running -2.5 degrees rear camber with just camber bolts. Expensive stuff too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Strut Bars: ???? Don't know if I really need these Is a $200 bar really better than a $50 bar?
Worth having if you run stiff suspension. Any bar will work, no need for Cusco titanium, although I happen to run the FHI CF/Ti front bar and a Whiteline rear. Just got good deals on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Camber Castor plates: With coilovers or other?
Coilovers: S-Squared, Tein RA, Tein Flex, DMS 50, HKS Hioerlite II, KW Variant 3??? $1500-..... I'm almost positive I want progressive rates, or helper springs, but which...
Definitely pay a visit to Nate at S-Squared on this one. Give him a budget and your goals and he will hook it up. $1500 will go a long way towards a winning setup.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Engine:
Spare ECU: Ebay....
Flash: ???? Somebody with a dyno, and a clue.
Nate again. Dyno will be ready as soon as the track day is over. You won't need a spare ECU however, as you can have multiple maps stored in what you have. I, in fact, will be using this solution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Mounts: Group N, or are there others?
Not legal in STX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Underdrive pulleys: ???
Go with lightened, but not underdrive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Intake: Drop in filter *, or CAI * which may have issues, but if I'm fllashing...
Skip the intake. On a stock turbo it is plenty efficient and makes no power, even with custom dyno tuning. Do the silencer removal instead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Headers: Stone Mountain *
UpPipe: Stone Mountain *
Turbo Back Exhaust: BPM split exit *
I haven't seen any headers make more power than the stock ones, especially on a stock turbo. Notice how tuners with dynos (Cobb, Vishnu, etc.) don't produce headers or sell them. Shiv in particular has no qualms about using other company's products if they make power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Brakes:
Calipers: stock *
Rotors: Stoptech 2 piece slotted
lines: Stainless of some sort
Pads: EBC Green/Red *, Axxis Ultimate
Not much to worry about brake wise. I'd go with Goodridge lines. Work great and are $50 less than Stopechs. Fluid? I like Ate SuperBlue but I might switch to Motul or Castrol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Wheels/Tires
Wheels: 17x8 Sprco N1 clones *
Tires: Falken Azenis Sports *
When those wear out what will you be trying? Kumho MX?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Other
Harnesses: 4 or 6 point
Seats: Need to weigh my race seat *
Guages: ??? EGT, Boost, ???
Racerwholesale.com for a harness. 4 point is fine, I got mine for $65. What seat are you running?
You definitely need boost and EGT gauges, other than that, everything is monitored by the ECU. I will have booost, EGT, oil temp, and coolant temp. might also add gear oil temp and fuel pressure (3rd most important).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
What did I miss?
Steering rack bushings, control arm bushings, shifter/bushings, clutch/flywheel, aluminum control arms, fuel cell for race gas mapping (more of a problem for me, unless there is 100 at the pump close to Stead), cusco/MRT front under brace, rear diff bushings and/or lock bolts... I don't think I missed too much.
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