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Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey
You actually have a little bit of front toe-out, which is not a bad thing necessarily if you can deal with it on the street, it's actually good for auto-x. I'd definitely want more negative camber at the front if I were you, especially since you have up to -1.5 in the back. Remember that more negative camber on a pair of tires means they will grip better through corners (up to a point), so the way you're aligned right now will tend to increase the amount of understeer.. which isn't good in a car which already understeers like crazy.
See if you can get less negative camber in the rear, maybe -0.5 degrees, and like in Scott's example as much as you can in the front. Same with front caster, as much as you can get. Also, next place you take the car too for an alignment - tell them to make both sides of the car symmetrical! -1.1 LR and -1.5 RR kinda sucks, you shouldn't have a 0.4 degree split... this isn't an oval track car. I've watched them do alignments in those shops and they can adjust it accurately to 0.1 degree, they just have to have a little patience and not be lazy.
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the problem with evening out the rears is that it's not adjustable w/o camber bolts.
Those rear specs are virtually identicle to mine IIRC. Also, it looks like the stock max camber is about +3.0deg... I thought it was +4.0deg. Castor is also not really adjustable. Sometimes the shops can just loosen everything up and try prod it inot a better spot, but there isn't a specific way to adjust front Castor or rear Camber. You need castor/camber plates or camber bolts.
Unfortunately, I think true Castor plates are illegal in STX... the rules say somthing like: "Camber adjustable plates are legal in STX; changes in Castor due to installation of such plates is allowed." Basically, you can install Camber plates, and if the install modifies the Castor that's okay, but they can't be Castor adjustable... minor issue I guess. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.