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Old 2006-04-10, 10:42 PM   #11
Kevin M
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
 
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Perhaps you are the one getting old and need glasses, Please reread my post.

GC 2 door RS does not equal GD Sedan.
Actually, from somewhere between the coupe B pillar and the C pillars... yes it does. There were no fundamental changes to that part of the car for the GD. Or to any other part of the car really. When Gary crashed his USTCC WRX, he could just as easily bolted on a GC front end instead of the '04, if he had felt the need to reject the free parts he got.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
My post specifically mentions buying the cheapest springs from a vendor/manufacturer you trust. While I didn't go into the details as to why, I never said go buy crap from eBay... Your recommendation to "buy first good deal that comes along" from a list of "known commodities" is hardly original.
No, you said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Springs are wound steel wire. Buy the cheapest ones with the specs you want from a vendor/manufacturer you trust.
Where does that in any way exempt eBay crap from your suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
I beleive the ALK has a significant impact over the legal bushing alone, and as I said, I don't believe the bushing is worth the effort and money unless you have already minimized roll to some extent, thus the recommendation of sway bars first.
The full ALK is better, but the legal bushing is better than stock even without the camber gains due to stiffness. ALK>insert>stock, even for '05+. Also, we're not grading the order of mods... the discussion is about which mods will be good for him and which won't. The only thing that seems absolutely certain from every suggestion and argument is that springs and sways are recommended.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
OK, so we agree on sway bars... sort of. My point is that sway bars in combination with a still streetable and more importantly snow/iceable spring configuration will add dry performance by minimizing roll induced camber changes without nearly the impact to snow performance that purely stiff springs would.
Yes, sway bars + springs is probably better than springs alone for handling, but it adds nothing for non-competition driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
And yes, the Strano AS bar is extreme, but I trust the people who are doing the engineering and more importantly the empirical testing on it. In conjunction with the purely stock springs, if there was known to be better, they would be using it. That's not to say there isn't a better solution, but as of right now, no one has publicly displayed a better one.
I definitely agree that the massive front sway is the fastest setup- in A Stock. I doubt we'll see it on cars that have the ability to use proper springs and dampers in almost any STi application. Somebody ask Gary what he's got on his Speed GT car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Again, it is all about compromise. It is probably to much for the snow, so the slightly stiffer springs and slightly stiffer bars on both ends will likely be a good compromise.
Yes. We're not building an A Stock PAX champion; it's a daily driven car whose owner wants to have more fun driving at autocross and track events. I have brought this up before when we have discussed classing options with people in the past. There are basically 3 reasons to run in stock- You're either chasing championships, or you can't afford mods, or you're planning to get some seat time before moving up. But there isn't a Subaru made that I'd rather run stock than in ST or SP, and your 3 modded cars suggest you feel the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
And last but not least, Kevin is right, apparently nothing shipped in the US comes with the Group N tops.
Sucks, too. They help handling quite a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
Oh, and rather than spending money on camber plates, since you are planning on retaining the stock struts/springs, in SP. you are allowed to slot the top mount holes for added camber if you so choose. A whole lot cheaper than camber plates, and would probably allow as much adjustment as long as nothing is in the way. More research would be required on that though before diving in with the round file... It worked greqat on my Lancia Beta back in the day...
Whoa there- the reason camber plates are ineffective with stock diameter springs is the perch hitting the strut tower itself. Slotting the strut tops is cheaper than camber plates, but no more effective and potentially disastrous if improperly done. I doubt many of us would start cutting up our $32,000 cars to save $300 on parts. Besides, I think your real motivation with that suggestion is to make it so off the shelf strut braces don't fit.
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