If you've never done brake lines before, but you're mechanically inclined, expect about an hour to do the swap. Someone that's experienced will be able to do it in closer to 15 minutes, assuming no stripped out nuts, which is unfortunately pretty common with those stupid flare fittings. Plus another hour to bleed the brakes if you don't have a lot of practice bleeding (these days, the SECCS track whore crew is down around 10-15 minutes to bleed since we all do it so much).
Rear strut bar installation sucks on a Sedan, and adds nothing. On your wagon, the install should be a breeze. The only part that's not totally straightforward is the cutting of the top mount trim caps... basically if you screw it up, you screw up the interior, but nothing critical. What makes the install even easier is if you're doing one of the quick-release bars... the only problem is that I'm starting to think that those quick-release bars that have the pivots in them probably don't do all that much, compared to a rigid bar. But you can't take a rigid bar out to carry extra cargo w/o undoing the top mount bolts.
Rear camber bolts are probably a good idea even at stock ride-heights, simply because the car has *no* rear camber adjustment from the factory. If you've got 'em, you can align the rear much better, even if you're not doing anything crazy.
What's an "oil seperator thing"? A catch can? I wouldn't install one w/o doing plenty of research 1st. If it's not hooked up properly, with all the correct diameter hoses and such, you'll end up making things worse. The only "easy" way to do a catch can w/o side effects is to do *two* catch cans, one for the PCV system, the other for the valve cover breathers. Otherwise, you can be like me and have a catch can that fills up in 10 minutes on the race track.
(That reminds me, I need to pull off my intake and intercooler and hose out all the oil that's probably coating everything, and check my spark plugs to make sure they're not all fouled up...)