Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey
Huh? The only things providing any clamp load are the lug studs & nuts (or yes, bolts if you have a retarded car).
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean
AFAIK the only thing hub centric center bores are good for are lining things up when installing wheels. Priceless on lug bolted cars like the A4. And providing a little support in the event of loose lugs/bolts so they don't just shear off and drop the corner of the car to the ground. I can attest to the later as well having been in a car at the track with loose lug bolts.
|
This is along the lines of what I was referring too, my bad.
I said clamping force, meant contact area/surface matching. You're right Austin - clamping comes from the bolts/nuts, not the surface area or shape. But having the hub lip and corresponding impression at the hub bore on the wheels match must create some sort of positive surface area/clamping area gain, no?
I can tell you without a doubt and with absolutely no actual specification or factual basis that hub-centric wheels fit tighter to the hubs than non-hub-centric wheels given the exact same amount of perceived torque on the lugs from the incredibly approximate installation of lug nuts using a spider wrench.
I swear both sets of hub-centric 5x100 wheels (using correct acorn/tapered nuts for each) on the Subaru fit better/tighter than the non-hub-centric 5x100 wheels on my bug (blank 4x130-style rotors drilled to 5x100 for modern 5x100 VW wheel fitment, with thread-in 12x1.5 studs, acorn nuts for OE-type seats). Referring to wheel removal - the wheels seem to like to stay in place after loosening all lugs before "falling off" when removing from the Subaru compared to the VW, which just seem sloppy and fall once the fifth nut is loosened at all.
Just sayin.
All technical with heavily researched specifications, of course.
All that said, I like hub-centric simply because it's quicker when installing wheels - rather than about 10 passes for each stud to get the wheel aligned it's 3 or so.