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#1 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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#2 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
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Gray cap is 5w30, green is 10w30. Or vice versa? And gold cap is the new extended performance stuff.
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FWD is the new AWD |
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#3 |
EJ205
Real Name: Khail Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,769
Car: 2016 VW GTI
Meets? We have meets?
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Mobil1 synthetic recently changed the bottle design and cap colors.
Old bottles: 0W30 = gray/silver caps 5w30 = blue caps 10w30 = green caps 15w50 = red caps new bottles: Caps are all bottle color (silver), but labels still use the same colors as the old caps. |
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#4 |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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I'm a firm believer in 5-30, maybe Scott, since your car is'nt necessarily a daily driver you could get away with some slippier stuff, but you don't need me to tell you that.
But around here 5-30 seems to be pretty decent.
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#5 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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For some reason, I thought my last oil change was with 15w50 because that was all that Walbogs had, but I can't specifically remember now, and my confusion was likely due to the new caps as mentioned by Khail. I'll go look in the garage and try to figure out which of the 15 gallons of used oil is the container from my last change. ![]()
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#6 | |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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1. To remove/distribute heat 2. To provide at least a 1 oil molecule seperation between moving metal parts. OK, and 3 is to carry debris of combustion/wear to the filter. With today's engines, is heavier oil ever better at 1 or 2? I would think higher viscosity may offer higher pressures, but at the cost of flow volume. I would think increased flow would offer better 1 & 2... I guess the question is if thinner oil can do #2 as well? As long as the temperatiures are not such that the oil is breaking down, again, I would think thnner is better to a point. If I recall correctly I've been using blue cap 5-30 Mobil one.
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#7 |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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Well, the 1st number isn't as important as the 2nd IIRC, at least in our application. The first nubmer is the cold weight of the oil. The second is the hot weight. The higher the number, the thicker the oil, the less prone to breaking down it is, as well as the more power it will rob from the motor.
For example, running 15w50 in the winter in your daily driver is probably a bad idea, since it will make the motor work extra hard pushing around all that thick oil. However, on a hot friggen day, when you're racing the motor, a 0w30 might be too light and could break-down reducing lubrication/protection. At least that's the reasoning behind Mobil 1 selling their 15w50 as "for High Performance Cars". One thing to note: Subaru's seem to have pretty good cooling systems, so even under extreme loads (racing on a hot day) the motor tends to stay around its normal temps, so the heavier oil probably isn't doing anything but lowering horsepower. Also, the difference between 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, and 15w50 probably isn't that much under normal operating temperatures. The 50 might be a bit thicker, but all the Xw30's are going to be the same at 180deg-220deg. Anyway, that's my take on it... I certainly don't consider myself an expert on this topic.
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