Time to order some transmission parts...

[100_Percent_Juice]

I have been doing some reading on NASIOC about what parts I should buy for my repair. From talking to Dylan(DS1 Motorsports), he said that I only need to buy 2nd drive gear and a new main shaft. I told him that my trans. has 89k on it and that I have the early MY04 (that has since been "improved" with the following parts.)

Originally Posted by Post from Nasioc

Synchro Assy (1st) 32650AA032 (late 04+ transmissions already have this)
Gear and Hub Assembly (1st) 32219AA320 (this part is required for use with the 1st gear 3 piece dual cone syncro. late 04+ transmissions already have this part
3rd & 4th gear sleeve & hub 32605AA180 <-- This part is now HIGHLY recommended by subaru if you are buying new syncros. They redesigned some of the syncros and this 3/4 hub/sleeve in 2005 to provide smoother shifting. You can no longer buy the older syncros or the old 3/4 hub/sleeve. (there is a TSB about it). I did not know about this part and did not install it. I haven't had any problems yet (as of 6/12/07)

I don't know enough about the transmission to know if those parts are completely necessary and Dylan doesn't seem to think so.

Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports

Joel-

You'll need:

Main shaft
2nd gear driven

Syncros are optional.

-Dylan @ DS1

I also read something that suggested replacing some or all of the bearings. Again I know nothing about this.

Any input would be appreciated

[MPREZIV]

Necessary to get it going, I wouldn't say all of those parts are needed, but I would say they're HIGHLY recommended, as they're updated and seem to be in the spirit of keeping any trans damage like this from happening in the future.

My trans stripped off reverse teeth, and all of the bearings, as well as anything else that showed wear from the metal bits floating around in the fluid, were replaced. Pretty much, ALL of the trans internals were replaced.

BUT, at the same time, I can understand not having the $$$ to go nuts...

[100_Percent_Juice]

I didn't really think about getting metal parts stuck in everything. The next thing I need to do is find a shop to put all of those things in there. I have a friend who works in the shop next to A1 transmission and he said that they should be pretty reasonable when it comes to price. Cory do you have any recommendations?

[sperry]

+1 on what Cory said. If you just suddenly stripped a gear and immediately stopped driving the car around, then you're probably cool for replacing just the busted parts. But if the car was "iffy" for a while before the gear finally went, or if you drove it w/ the damage, I'd be worried about the longevity of the gearbox's bearings and other bits over time.

It all boils down to how long you plan on keeping the car... if it's gotta last another 150k miles, you'll probably want to bite the bullet and rebuild it completely, but if you're only looking for 30k out of it, do it the cheap way and then it's someone else's problem... which isn't cool and reduces the selling price of the car, but hell, times are friggen tough these days and rebuilding gearboxes is expensive.

You really won't know how bad things are until you can get the case cracked open and have someone that knows their shit look at everything. A possible option is to buy a second WRX tranny w/ a different busted gear on the super-cheap, then just pick all the best parts from both boxes to rebuild you one working box... but that's only cheap if you can do the work yourself since labor tends to be the most expensive part of transmission repair.

[100_Percent_Juice]

Yeah, I can't do the labor myself and I would like to think that I will have the car for another 100k since there is absolutely no reason I would want something else. IMO it is one of the best cars to have where we live. If it was a coupe I could have the excuse that it doesn't work with kids but, the four doors make it workable for now. Its also paid for and gets decent gas mileage with more power than most other cars can offer off the shelf.

I drove the car for a maximum of 4 miles in 1st gear after the break. I imagine that was just long enough to disperse the metal bits everywhere. I guess I will find out when I open it. On a side note, how much does a dry 5mt weigh? I don't have a tranny floor jack so I am thinking about just taking it out by hand.

[bigrobwoot]

I don't know what the tranny weighs, but it isn't light. When I helped my friend with his from his 03, it was a bitch rolling it around under the car just to get it on the jack, but he got it out without a jack. PM bluestreak and ask if you can borrow his tranny jack. He's my roommate so I know he has one and he's not using it, but I don't wanna do the leg work for you haha, and it's easier without a middleman. If he doesn't respond let me know and I'll talk to him.

[sperry]

I wouldn't try it by hand... adding a crushed hand and a trip to the ER to the cost of the replacement isn't worth the risk.

At the very least, cobble yourself together a wooden brace that you can use with a normal floor jack that would help lower it, and protect it in the case it falls. But really, get your hands on a tranny jack if you can.

[MPREZIV]

Trans jack is the best way, but it can be done by hand... it just isn't what I'd call "fun."

There's a few reputable trans shops in town, I've heard good things about Arrow, and A-1. I'd try calling around, and seeing who sounds confident about the job, and check out some prices.

[sedonabugeye]

or you can bring it down to my shop and have Tom rebuild it. Hes rebuilt mine twice already and has hundreds of tranny rebuild under his belt.. hell, i can prolly even have him do it on the side for even less

[cody]

Why'd he have to rebuild it twice?

Is this him?

[sperry]

Originally Posted by sedonabugeye

or you can bring it down to my shop and have Tom rebuild it. Hes rebuilt mine twice already and has hundreds of tranny rebuild under his belt.. hell, i can prolly even have him do it on the side for even less

+1 for Tom... IIRC, he was the guy that did the latest rebuild on the SVX's transfer clutch giving me my AWD back!

[sedonabugeye]

haha!.. nope..slightly different tom..ha!

[ScottyS]

To take that out yourself, you will need: tall jackstands, some way to lift up on the front of the motor, and a tranny jack. Trying to do it by hand even with lots of help is asking to break something. Can't those be rented?

[100_Percent_Juice]

I would totally be down with that. If you could ask him for me when you get a chance that would be awesome. I will probably be getting all the bearings and synchros just to be safe. Send me a PM after you talk to him. Thanks

[100_Percent_Juice]

Originally Posted by ScottyS

To take that out yourself, you will need: tall jackstands, some way to lift up on the front of the motor, and a tranny jack. Trying to do it by hand even with lots of help is asking to break something. Can't those be rented?

The car is already up in the air with most everything unbolted. I was just asking about a tranny jack or doing it by hand for the actual removal. I will probably give bigrobwoots roommate a ring to see if I can borrow one.

[100_Percent_Juice]

SOoooo. I have everything unbolted and unhooked, trans. jack in place, and I have been trying to pry the tranny off the engine for like 15 minutes. WHY is it not coming off?

[Kevin M]

Most common mistake is not removing the pin from the clutch fork. If you did that, you either forgot one of the 8 bellhousing bolts, or you're just a really big wuss.

[ScottyS]

Yeah, if it's only separated like 1/4", it's the fork pin. Big allen cover on the driver's side, thread a #10 machine thread bold into the pin and pull it. Or something like that.

[100_Percent_Juice]

Yeah I did that right after I removed the starter. I can't even fit a putty knife between the engine and the tranny. Kevin, you and Dean both asked if I have 8 bolts. I do not, I have 6 bolts and 2 nuts. Does the 5mt and 6mt have the same number? Here is a picture of a 2.0 that "I think" looks like it only has 6 bolt holes.

[ScottyS]

If all fasteners are removed, and the pin is out, and the fork is pulled up out of the clutch, and the tranny mount is removed, and the driveline is removed, then in theory the tranny will come free. The front of the engine should be pulled up with a crane to change the angle and allow the tranny to slip off easier.

[Dean]

Take off the flywheel bottom cover and hit the tranny with a dead blow hammer. The car isn't old enough for the dowel pins to be seized. Scott has had the 5MT out and might know how many bolts. Don't you have a shop manual? The '02/03 one is in the forums or archives somewhere.

I can't believe you are not getting any separation top or bottom with all the bolts out and lifting and lowering the back end of the tranny. That just doesn't sound possible with the leverage it has over the height of the bell housing.

You have the linkage disconnected? But that wouldn't keep it from moving at all...

[100_Percent_Juice]

This trans was removed around a year ago to do the clutch so I would have thought that it would just slide right out. I released the fork, removed the half shafts, removed driveline, unhooked shift linkage, 6 bolts and 2 nuts from bell housing. Also, I don't have the flywheel cover anymore since we did the clutch install. I will take a video if I need to but, I am prying this thing like a madman. I have no clue what the holdup is.

[Kevin M]

Put a jack under the front of the engine and slowly raise it so it tilts back towards the gearbox. It sounds like you're just putting a lot of tension on the two studs and the threads are gripping too much.

[cody]

Didjagetit?

[100_Percent_Juice]

No. I have a jack pushing up the front of the engine and I have tried all angles and it will still not slide out. I dont want to spray anything with WD40, should I? Cory, come over and get this taken care of and I will buy you lunch.