time to finish my g-machine - Subaru Enthusiasts Car Club of the Sierras

drfunk · 2003-12-18, 03:42 PM

i need to work on my handling now. can any one provide me with some feed back on these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33582
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33582
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586
http://www.fastwrx.com/freeddesstru.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586

ArthurS · 2003-12-18, 04:43 PM

Do not go with a non-name brand. 2 out of 3 of those ebay auctions are junk. If you are looking for springs, go Perrin, TEIN, Prodrive, Eibach, or STi (I am sure there are more name brands).

AtomicLabMonkey · 2003-12-18, 05:45 PM

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

ArthurS · 2003-12-18, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

I agree, but name-brand springs have a warrenty that you know can be used. If I go buy some Sunnyside Springs....or some other generic brand, who knows how soon they could sag and when they do, if the company will honor a warrenty.

AtomicLabMonkey · 2003-12-18, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArthurS

Do not go with a non-name brand. 2 out of 3 of those ebay auctions are junk. If you are looking for springs, go Perrin, TEIN, Prodrive, Eibach, or STi (I am sure there are more name brands).

...and Hypercoil, QA1, H&R among others if you're looking for standard dimension coil-over springs.

My advice would be to look for manufacturers that guarantee their spring rate control, for example that any spring you buy from them will be within +/- 5% of the published spring rate. The good mfr's do this, some others don't... if they don't then you don't really know what you're getting. They might advertise a 350lb/in spring, but the one you get in the box might actually only be 322 lb/in. I know Hypercoil in particular guarantees their rate control within 2%... of course their springs are also pretty pricey.

sperry · 2003-12-18, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

You said "E-Bizzle" and "super dook" in the same post.

AtomicLabMonkey · 2003-12-19, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

You said "E-Bizzle" and "super dook" in the same post.

You're Dr. Galacaweicz?

Yes... yes I am.

drfunk · 2003-12-23, 03:41 PM

ok i dont have enough money to complete all my susp. mods i want. i was thinking maybe the tein springs and an anti-lift kit. i can do this for under $300. are there any better combos i can do that are cheap?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586
http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/p...products_id=52
im also pretty hesetant about buying things off ebay. i never have before.

tysonK · 2003-12-23, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drfunk

ok i dont have enough money to complete all my susp. mods i want. i was thinking maybe the tein springs and an anti-lift kit. i can do this for under $300. are there any better combos i can do that are cheap?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586
http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/p...products_id=52
im also pretty hesetant about buying things off ebay. i never have before.

I have bought all kinds of shit ofy ebay, from $5.00-$1,500. So far I have had no bad things happen. I know things do happen but I think it is getting better. As long as you know what you are buying and the person you are buying from responds to e-mails in a prompt manner I think those two things usally lead to good buying.

sperry · 2003-12-23, 09:56 PM

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

JC · 2003-12-23, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?

sperry · 2003-12-23, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?

Turbo kit puts him in Street Modified with me and Dean and Austin.

Street Mod:

D Modified:

JC · 2003-12-23, 11:20 PM

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

AtomicLabMonkey · 2003-12-23, 11:20 PM

Street Modified brings enough expense & effort along with it if you want to be anything remotely resembling "competitive", let alone all-out Modified.

AtomicLabMonkey · 2003-12-23, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

Have you ever looked at the SCCA Solo-II rulebook? It's thicker than a goddamned encylopedia. There are a lot of things that aren't allowed, and most of them fall under the category of:

drfunk · 2003-12-25, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?

i dont have any susp. mods yet, but i ordered the springs. i want more but im a cheap ass and dont want to spend too much.

BOO · 2003-12-25, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

2003-12-18, 03:42 PM	#1
drfunk EJ22 Real Name: Sean Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Ammon,ID Posts: 182 Car: 2003 subi 25rs turbo	time to finish my g-machine i need to work on my handling now. can any one provide me with some feed back on these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33582 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33582 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586 http://www.fastwrx.com/freeddesstru.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586 __________________ the beauty of RS-T

2003-12-18, 04:43 PM	#2
ArthurS EJ207 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 3,707 Car: 2011 Chevy Battle Wagon	Do not go with a non-name brand. 2 out of 3 of those ebay auctions are junk. If you are looking for springs, go Perrin, TEIN, Prodrive, Eibach, or STi (I am sure there are more name brands). __________________ Captain Murphy: I dub thee Sir Phobos, Knight of Mars, beater of ass. Be a hitter, babe.

2003-12-18, 05:45 PM	#3
AtomicLabMonkey Nightwalker Real Name: Austin Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Oshkosh, WI Posts: 4,063 Car: '13 WRX YGBSM	If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky. __________________ "None of you seem to understand. I'm not locked in here with you.. you're locked in here with me."

2003-12-23, 03:41 PM	#8
drfunk EJ22 Real Name: Sean Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Ammon,ID Posts: 182 Car: 2003 subi 25rs turbo	ok i dont have enough money to complete all my susp. mods i want. i was thinking maybe the tein springs and an anti-lift kit. i can do this for under $300. are there any better combos i can do that are cheap? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33586 http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/p...products_id=52 im also pretty hesetant about buying things off ebay. i never have before. __________________ the beauty of RS-T

2003-12-23, 09:56 PM	#10
sperry The Doink Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 20,335 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata Class: PDX/TT-6 The way out is through	About the ALK, Sean: It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is not the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120. All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference! __________________ Is you is, or is you ain't, my con-stit-u-ints?

2003-12-23, 11:20 PM	#13
JC Ask me about dubs! Real Name: JC Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 2,895 Car: 2013 Triumph Speed Triple R	You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay. __________________ Actually, I am a rocket scientist.

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