My car has issues. Help needed.

[JoelK]

I have a 2004 4EAT WRX in Minden. It's got 8k miles on it, and I just started modding it (couldn't deal with the lag/offboost power).

I took it to Golden Nugget Automotive in Gardnerville to get the turbo/uppipe swap dne (deadbolt p&p). They apparently thought they needed to "drop the frame" to get the turbo out. Because I was nervous about their workmanship after discovering that, I bought a turboback and had the guys at S-Squared install that and look at what was already done. Nate thought everything looked ok.

After I got the car back from Golden Nugget, I noticed the alignment was a little different even though they claimed it wouldn't be affected.

When we got that snow a week ago, I went for a little drive in it, and I noticed a clunk when I pressed the accelerator decently (not WOT, but more than a gentle start) from a stop. There was some wheelspin and then one or two clunks in the front center part of the car. It happened one other time just after that, and then it didn't happen again.

Then everything was fine until last night taking it easy (25mph speed limits, ugh) I heard some clunking sounds over my music and exhaust just under the accelerator area. I turned down the music and discovered that it happened every time I reached a total stop (not just braking -- I had to stop) and every time I accelerated out of a stop, even if it was extremely gentle. The harder I braked/accelerated the louder and more pronounced it was. I tested it this morning, and I could hear it the same. It sounds like something might be a little loose.

Any ideas or suggestions? I haven't done anything to the car other than what I described above. I'll drive it up to Reno to get it looked at if I have to, assuming it's safe to take it that far.

I also still have a CEL from my exhaust to figure out. The turboback's previous owner didn't have a problem with it, and didn't use a CEL fix. (It was a 420)

[MattR]

I used to have a WRX 4EAT wagon, and when I was exhaust shopping, I found out that certain downpipes/turbobacks can hit the Auto tranny,, as it is significantly larger than the MT. Make sure you check all the clearances real well...Other than than that, it is hard to say without hearing it first hand. However, if SSquared looked at it, and said it was ok, then I'd probably agree. good luck

[MikeSTI]

sounds to me like it might be your center diff.
but not totaly sure might want other ideas

hope you get it fixed so you can have some fun

[Kevin M]

That sounds a lot like Sperry's clunk after removing his ALK. If they removed the extra subframe, then they would have to remove some of the same bolts. If possible, have Scott take a look at it and check them for you.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

That sounds a lot like Sperry's clunk after removing his ALK. If they removed the extra subframe, then they would have to remove some of the same bolts. If possible, have Scott take a look at it and check them for you.

Yeah, if that U-Frame was dropped, you might want to check the torque on the bolts under there. I'd be happy to help, I've got the specs lying around in my garage somewhere.

My specific ALK related issue was the actual main bolt on the front-left control arm bushing... it backed off about a quarter turn, and the bushing itself would clunk. That shouldn't have been touched even if they dropped the U-frame dealy.

More likely is Matt's suggestion about the tranny/exhaust clearance. Do you have polyurethane exhaust hangers? I had issues with my muffler hitting my sway-bar mount in the rear under latteral-g's before I got some KartBoy hangers. Those stock rubber hangers will actually flex quite a bit. My muffler had to move like 2 inches to hit that swaybar mount. Even if that's not the cause of the noise, I'd get some h/d hangers for an aftermarket exhaust, considering how cheap the hangers are.

[ZER026D]

To me it sounds like the problem with the BPM turbo back I had. I would look under your car to see where it is hitting there will be dings in the exhaust. There should be a fix for this I would start with the harder exhaust mounts then the engine mounts. Or you can do what I did and cut a part of the frame most people would not do this. This could also mean that your exhaust is not mounted right if I was you I would get under there and look at all the bolts and tighten them.

[ZER026D]

I would never sell somone a exhaust without the H/D exhaust mounts

[JoelK]

Thanks for your response.

sperry, I might have to take you up on that offer.

Yeah, Nate mentioned the exhaust might cause some vibrations, especially when braking hard. I may try to look for pressure points and put some padding around it just to see if the noises go away. That would certainly be the easiest fix. I'll jack the car up when I get home and see what happens.

The differential is my fear. Those aren't cheap. At the same time, I think/hope the frame/exhaust is more likely since that's what's been worked on, and it's not like I'm making incredibly more power than I was stock. I've also tried not to abuse the car, though I do enjoy it.

BTW, the exhaust is Vishnu.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by JoelK

Thanks for your response.

sperry, I might have to take you up on that offer.

Yeah, Nate mentioned the exhaust might cause some vibrations, especially when braking hard. I may try to look for pressure points and put some padding around it just to see if the noises go away. That would certainly be the easiest fix. I'll jack the car up when I get home and see what happens.

The differential is my fear. Those aren't cheap. At the same time, I think/hope the frame/exhaust is more likely since that's what's been worked on, and it's not like I'm making incredibly more power than I was stock. I've also tried not to abuse the car, though I do enjoy it.

BTW, the exhaust is Vishnu.

Padding may be difficult. I used a bit of rubber on my rear swaybar mount to quiet my clunk temproarily, and even way down at the muffler, the heat melted the rubber... it may be impossible to pad anything up front where it's much hotter.

BTW: I'm also running the Vishnu exhaust!

[JoelK]

I figured I'd just pad to see if that fixed the problem. I was worried melting might happen so I wouldn't let the car get hot. Once I know where the problem is, I can at least stop worrying (and depending, start freaking ).

[Dean]

Originally Posted by JoelK

After I got the car back from Golden Nugget, I noticed the alignment was a little different even though they claimed it wouldn't be affected.

The rest of the guys have hit on most of the good stuff, but have you had the alignment chacked since the sub frame drop?

Don't forget to check the top strut monting bolts as those could cause clunking as well if they were loosened.

In general, dropping the sub frame will mess up an alignment to some extent, that is why you might have noticed it. The tolerances in the bushings, and bolts might allow for as much as a full degree toe, or camber, maybe more.

If you have uneven Castor, messing with the subframe is usually your only option to trying to fix it since no manufacturer these days thinks we can be trusted to adjust castor. OK, I guess it is just more expensive to make an adjustable castor suspension.

[JoelK]

I've noticed that the car pulls toward the direction of a slope. i.e. if the road slopes off to the right but goes straight, the car will pull to the right. Before the turbo install, the car was rock stable in every way.

I do intend to get an alignment (that was my original plan to ask when I initially signed up -- Where to go?), but this seemed like a potentially dangerous situation that needed to be addressed immediately.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Originally Posted by JoelK

I've noticed that the car pulls toward the direction of a slope. i.e. if the road slopes off to the right but goes straight, the car will pull to the right. Before the turbo install, the car was rock stable in every way.

I do intend to get an alignment (that was my original plan to ask when I initially signed up -- Where to go?), but this seemed like a potentially dangerous situation that needed to be addressed immediately.

Well, it depends on how hard it's pulling. If the road is sloped off to the side, a car will naturally steer a little bit towards the lower side. Since most roads are sloped a little to the right, alignment shops usually put a caster split in between the LF and RF, so the RF will have around 0.2 or 0.3 degrees more positive caster than the LF does. This creates a slight steering force to counteract the road slope, and makes the car feel neutral on most roads. It could be that your front wheels simply have symmetrical caster now, which isn't anything dangerous. Now, if you're going straight, let go of the steering wheel and the car jerks itself into a hard right turn, that's a different story...

[JoelK]

Well, I got under the car today. I didn't really find much to tighten. I also didn't find anything readily available that I could use to dampen the exhaust. There looked to be a good inch of clearance at minimum around the exhaust so I'm not convinced that is the problem. It also was perfectly smooth all around so it didn't feel like it was rubbing on anything.

I took it out for a little test drive, and the sound is more of a creaking sound. It only occurs on the point where the car stops completely. I couldn't really get it to come on during acceleration. I drove over a speed bump and the front wheels didn't make any noise, but when the rear wheels went over the bump (and made it down to the other side), the creaking sound showed up there.

It definitely sounds like something is a little loose or just not solid under the car. I think I've run out of things I can do with what I have. Does anyone have any further suggestions?

[MikeSTI]

have you checked your exhaust mounts yet?

[ZER026D]

I think its in the same spot mine was hitting its right next to the DP mount the one that bolts to the tranny the is a cross brace. Since your car is making more power I think it is pulling you exhaust ide to ide or up and down. I will find a pic later and post it.

[JoelK]

I found some clothing to act as padding and put it down the length of the downpipe back to the cat. A quick 30 second test yeilded promising results as I no longer heard most of the noises. I then removed the clothing and tested the car, and I still couldn't get the noises back... so I don't really know.

When I was installing the clothing, I did notice there was a thin little bar at the bottom that was very close to the exhaust... closer than I had noticed when checking yesterday.

I'm going to dig around for some stiffer exhaust mounts and order them. Hopefully that's all the problem is.

Thanks for your help.

[ZER026D]

Thats the one I had to grind I am sure it is what your problem is.

[JoelK]

Well, I've driven it about 200 miles, and the clunking has gotten noticeably worse. I can notice it on slightly bumpy roads. It feel like something is loose in the area just below my left foot (since I have a 4eat I rest my foot on the floorboard where the clutch would be). The sound is pretty much constant when I feel the "looseness."

I got the stiffer mounts, and gave installation a shot. Sheesh, those things are pain to install. I ended up only installing the easy one (where the bolt holds it in on the muffler mount). I then repeated the test of installing clothing around the exhaust to see if I could get the clunk. With the one exhaust mount and clothing around the downpipe/midpipe, I heard it this time.

I talked to Cobb, and they suggested (from a few days old memory here so it might be off a little) the bolts that connect the control arms to the frame may have been incorrectly tightened.

My thinking is this: A) I don't really know what I'm doing or necessarily have the strength/tools to pull it off and B) my understanding is that an antilift kit requires removing part of the frame, (and I still need an alignment), I might as well get an anti-lift kit installed.

Is that accurate, and does that make sense? Is there any other help anyone can offer? (Since the trouble seems to be getting worse, I'm to the point where I feel like if I keep driving it as-is, something is going to fall off)

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Cobb (and others that have already mentioned it) might be on the right track. Jack up the car and start checking the torque on every bolt & fastener under the front end... any subframe bolts, control arm bolts, swaybar endlinks, upper & lower strut mount bolts, steering rack/links, etc. etc. Even if you don't have a torque wrench at least hit them with a regular wrench to make sure they're not noticeablely loose and about to fall out.

If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, see if one of the other guys in the area can come help you out. Since you don't really know what the grease-monkeys monkeyed with, everything underneath should be checked. If I were you I would do it soon too, since the problem is apparently getting worse.

[JoelK]

Finally, I have an update. A couple weeks ago, I went to Nate @ S-squared, and he installed an anti-lift kit for me. Since then, I've had absolutely no clunking, and I've put about 1500 miles of hard driving on the car since then.

I also got an alignment right after the kit was installed. The car is feeling good now... one day my AccessPort is going to show up to take it up another notch.

[ArthurS]

Good to hear man!

[STIwish]

Good deal man, clunking == annoying.