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#51 |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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So, all this talk about sways, I just bumped mine up to the last setting on my perrin, obviously snap oversteer is a huge deal now, I was curious though, Would adding a front sway kinda counter-act the tendency for the car to oversteer? I realize that it could very well increase oversteer, but the way the car is now, that would almost be welcome, seeing as how I can spin the car out at any moment. My train of thought here is that adding a front sway will help reduce the understeer of my full honk rsb, as well as adding some extra grip in the way of even less body roll. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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#52 |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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So I did some searching and I think I'm gonna try adding a front sway bar to my setup. Worth a shot anyways.
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#53 | |
EJ205
Real Name: Jeremiah Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 1,888
Car: 2005 Impreza 2.5RS, 2000 Forester L
Class: RNP sometimes (see motto)
"Kids are ruining autocross."
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#54 |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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nevermind.
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#55 |
i can has kart?
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,228
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I'm adding the front swaybar soon. I just had to get the rear figured out first. Are you using the end hole or the one closest to the bar itself? I'm going to add STI pink springs before solo 2 season if they don't cost an arm and a leg.
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#56 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
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You're on STi pink springs right Chris? I'd so go for it with the front sway. I always had a stock front bar on my RS, but I usually only ran the rear bar at full stiff for autocross, where the near-snap oversteer was welcome. If you can't find an adjustable, a 21 or 22mm fixed would still be good.
Joeyy, he's on the holes closest to the bar, farthest from the end.
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#57 | |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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No, Tanabe gf210's, but today I went and found a deserted lot and whipped the car around a bit and I'm very happy with it actually, I think I might try adding an adjustable bar like you said Kevin, but the car seemed surprisingly well balanced, with just a hint of oversteer, which like you said is kinda welcome in Autox.
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#58 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
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It probably still won't like to throttle oversteer, especially with the open rear diff, but if you can get controllable snap oversteer (easy to cancel with a little counter steer) with quick lifts as you turn-in, you're pretty much set until you decide you need coilovers. I would only do chassis stiffening mods to the suspension after that.
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#59 | |
EJ205
Real Name: Jeremiah Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 1,888
Car: 2005 Impreza 2.5RS, 2000 Forester L
Class: RNP sometimes (see motto)
"Kids are ruining autocross."
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#60 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
Posts: 9,445
Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
Class: 19 FP
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Pros: they're cool to list as a mod
![]() Cons: Good ones, made of less flexible metal with proper design, cost more, usually $100-140 apiece. Also, the rear is a pain to install. Not worth doing unless you're swapping springs and/or struts at the same time.
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#61 | |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
Location: Californication
Posts: 7,751
Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink!
Class: TESP
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#62 |
EJ205
Real Name: Khail Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,769
Car: 2016 VW GTI
Meets? We have meets?
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Wagon owners have it easy. My rear strut brace takes a contortionist to get on and off.
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#63 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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Wagons need one more than sedans so it's only fitting.
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#64 | |
EJ251
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sparks
Posts: 526
Car: 2005 2.5 rs cgm
Class: TDSP
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On-throttle oversteer is a LONG ways away. ![]()
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#65 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
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Class: PDX/TT-6
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#66 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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I've never heard that. Which way would you have me pre-tension it? Pushing outward or pulling inward?
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#67 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
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Pushing outward is how most do it, IIRC. But I don't have a quick release on mine, I just torqued mine down so it shouldn't move. If the threading on one of the ends of the bar is reverse, pre-loading is as simple as loosening the lock nuts and twisting the whole bar a few turns... but I don't remember if the Whiteline bar is threaded properly for that.
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#68 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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According to this read, the bar is under tension (not compression) during cornering (which makes sense if you think about the force on the outside wheel during cornering). So, if anything, you'd want to pre-tension it, not pre-compress it...just to answer my own question.
2ndly, there is no discernable play in the quick-release bolts. They are very snug. The Whiteline bar is not designed so you can simply spin the bar to lengthen and shorten it. You have to uninstall it on one side and spin the end piece that the Q-R bolt slides through to change its length. Perhaps I'll try to shorten it half a turn. |
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#69 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
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If the bar doesn't spin for adjustment, there's really no way to put a decent pre-tension on it. If you've got to be able to slide the bolt through it while it's a its final length, you're screwed. I guess just making sure that quick-release is nice and tight is the best you can do.
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#70 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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The bar really has no play in it at all. It's very well made from what I can tell. The threads are very fine so I'm going to see if I can at least squeeze another half turn to shorten the bar just a tad. Maybe with my big ass sitting in the rear, the extra weight will flex the towers inward enough to get a touch of pre-load.
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#71 |
EJ205
Real Name: Jeremiah Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 1,888
Car: 2005 Impreza 2.5RS, 2000 Forester L
Class: RNP sometimes (see motto)
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Hmm. I may have to add front and rear strut tower bars to my list for the year. Is that an appropriate progression from sway bars, or is there something else that I'd be better off upgrading?
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#72 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
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#73 | |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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Wagons are another story though since they don't get any structural integrity from the rear seat like sedans do. |
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#74 | |
Nightwalker
Real Name: Austin Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Oshkosh, WI
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Car: '13 WRX
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I wouldn't count on any brace that uses pivoting joints doing much of anything useful. If you want a stiffer chassis, use bolted or welded joints.
Oh, and this: Quote:
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#75 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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Monkey, the point of a RSB is to share the force flex between both strut towers. I fail to see how the pivoting joints take away from the usefulness of the bar. I wouldn't expect the bar to do anything other than keep the two strut towers at one constant distance from eachother (therby sharing the force exerted upon them). I think expecting a solid bar to keep the rear end "square" is asking too much of it.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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