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#1 |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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Why are you dumping it? I am very happy with mine.
IMHO opinion the people having issues with them are not routing the hoses right, just like the catch can people who fill them up.
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I am a Commodore PET --- Now get off my lawn you kids... ![]() Last edited by Dean; 2012-02-05 at 11:45 AM. |
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#2 |
EJ251
Real Name: Andy Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sparks
Posts: 566
Car: Leggy wagon/Bugeye/megacab
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Because they aren't very efficient with higher horsepower cars/higher boost.
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#3 | |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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I've seen a couple guys on Nasioc who had an issue, but looking at their line routing, would say he had them routed under things, not over which is bad at minimum and quite possibly stupid given how liquids and vapors work. That is kind of like the guys with catch cans mounted lower than the breathers filling up cans and blaming it on the case vs. head breather line pressures.
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I am a Commodore PET --- Now get off my lawn you kids... ![]() Last edited by Dean; 2012-02-05 at 10:11 PM. |
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#4 |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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Dean: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2228499
The GS AOS apparently has an issue with high HP and autox lateral gs. People are switching to the new Crawford AOS. I'm just not sure if the $400 for the Crawford unit is worth the extra money if you're not autoxing.
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#5 |
EJ251
Real Name: Andy Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sparks
Posts: 566
Car: Leggy wagon/Bugeye/megacab
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I had mine routed just fine. And didn't really have an issue with oil consumption, but more an issue over on the pcv side blowing oil out. Im also swapping to the Crawford because it seems to be more efficient for higher levels of boost. I also am changing up my entire setup and frankly just want something new. Entire new engine setup, so why the hell not? Its only money, right?
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UNRIVALED PERFORMANCE. E-85 gt35r'd bugeye. 490whp/414wtq |
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#6 | |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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Unless you have a really long and/or cooled path or VTA, it is pretty tough to avoid some vapor getting back to the intake, the goal is to avoid pooling, especially in the return hose. The Crawford looks a lot like the Moroso stuff which is way cheaper. Wonder if it is just rebranded and price jacked? I still don't understand what boost has to do with it unless you have a bunch of blow by which is not really the AOS's fault.
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#7 |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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Lots of boost does mean more blowby, even on a healthy motor. I can see a 2bar motor easily overwhelming a small AOS.
The new Crawford AOS uses engine coolant to supposedly ensure proper temps for removing water vapor from the oil in colder climates. That alone might be worth the upgrade. Does the Moroso stuff do that too?
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#8 |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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Did not realize the crawford did that. No, Moroso does not.
Heating is good. The crawford sounds a lot like the aviation ones I looked at back before the GrimmSpeed ones came out. But water temp is 160-180, not the 212+ you need to avoid condensation. http://www.skygeek.com/airwolf-afc-w...rator-kit.html I still think the people having trouble with the GrimmSpeed are largely due to hose routing. High HP might be a contributor though. It is relatively small, so only has so much surface area.
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I am a Commodore PET --- Now get off my lawn you kids... ![]() Last edited by Dean; 2012-02-06 at 09:12 AM. |
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#9 | |
Little Slugger
Real Name: Kevin Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: North Lake Tahoe, NV
Posts: 777
Car: 05 WRB STI Wagon/00 BRP GC Sedan
Class: 39 TSM
I'm not crazy, I'm just passionate!
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I have since switched to the Crawford unit, I have only had it on for a couple of weeks, but it seems like so far my oil consumption has subsided, and I am not seeing the clouds at WOT either. |
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#10 |
EJ251
Real Name: Andy Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sparks
Posts: 566
Car: Leggy wagon/Bugeye/megacab
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I keep my water temp right between 195-200. And I do run between 28-32 psi on my car. So the Crawford aos is going to be my next logical step in this. And using the coolant will aid in vaporizing the water vs having is sludge up in the filler neck.
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#11 | |
EJ251
Real Name: Nick P Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Reno
Posts: 881
Car: 2005 STi
Class: MadtyteTunerBro!
Back to the studio!
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#12 |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI
Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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Sorry, I have turned this into a tech discussion...
The oil out the filler sounds weird, like a seal was missing or worse. Guess I should pick up some clear hose an put it in-line. Andy, that sounds high. Most people specifically try and lower water temps to 160-180... Oil in the filler neck is still the most baffling part of all this. I guess a high quick initiation of a high G side load and then sustained could cover the bottom of the filler and then crankcase pressure push it up. I wonder if it is specific to a particular series of blocks? aren't the oil passages different EJ207 vs. 257, etc... Doing more research, condensation is only really an issue for aircraft where temperatures are damn cold at altitude. There is no real reason for the Crawford design in automotive applications. Water is not going to condense at anything close to operating temp of the motor. Dew Point. Cold metal at start up or well after shutdown is the only thing that would likely have water condense. If you have the "white crud" there is most likely a bigger problem than just normal condensation as that should "boil off" as soon as the car reaches operating temp.
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#13 |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
The way out is through
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Well, people bitched about white gunk in the Crawford AOS before they added the coolant line (mostly folks that live in cold climates), and apparently the new AOS fixes the problem. So I'm guessing that it makes a real difference.
I think the oil passages are pretty similar on all EJ blocks. It's just the heads on the EJ2x7 blocks that get the extra set of breathers to help with high-G oil issues. But if Grimmspeed is specifically admitting an issue when autocrossing and is working on a new revision to their AOS, I'd say that's a pretty good indication there's more than just a hose routing issue.
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#14 |
EJ251
Real Name: Andy Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sparks
Posts: 566
Car: Leggy wagon/Bugeye/megacab
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It depends on if I run one or two fans.. Stays constant at 90*C for the most part.
I can get it a little cooler when I switch on both fans.
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UNRIVALED PERFORMANCE. E-85 gt35r'd bugeye. 490whp/414wtq |
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#15 | |
Little Slugger
Real Name: Kevin Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: North Lake Tahoe, NV
Posts: 777
Car: 05 WRB STI Wagon/00 BRP GC Sedan
Class: 39 TSM
I'm not crazy, I'm just passionate!
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#16 | |
EJ205
Real Name: Matt Taylor Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cousin-F*ck, Carolina
Posts: 1,474
Wish in one hand and sh*t in the other...
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#17 |
EJ22
Real Name: Silvio Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: sacramento, ca
Posts: 271
Car: 2004 Subaru STI
Class: 04 TSM
smooth is fast
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ive had mine for almost 2 years with lots of auto x and track days and i have to say i love it. my car with 112k does not burn any oil (only burns coolant lol) it used to burn at leats a quart every 3k before. the only thing but its not really related is that the hose where it connects to pcv valve was brittle and it might of cracked a little bit when i was replacing valve cover gaskets so now it smells like oil after I park it in the garage after long drives
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#18 |
EJ251
Real Name: Andy Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sparks
Posts: 566
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Some people have great success w it and others not so much. We're not saying its not a good product. Just wanting to go a different route w things on our higher hp and boost cars.
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UNRIVALED PERFORMANCE. E-85 gt35r'd bugeye. 490whp/414wtq |
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#19 |
RIP
Real Name: Cory Schander Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 163
Car: 2006 STI
Class: SM
Never dwell on the past, It fucks your future!
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The unit works great BUT it depends on how it is set up. If you have the Line that needs vacumm going to your intake you will have a problem with the turbo sucking out the oil if you have a bigger turbo. 55 lb/min or greater.
Austin (Gus Gus) has just recently witnessed this. I have an oil scavenge set up into my down pipe to prevent this. So I believe the routing of some things may need changed for higher HP cars but overall a great piece of equipment.
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#20 | |
EJ205
Real Name: Austin Join Date: Jan 2009
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#21 |
Seņor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
Location: $99 Tire Store
Posts: 9,294
Car: $.04 STI
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I wonder if the real trick would be to run the "intake" line from the AOS to a catch can high on the firewall that is vent to atmosphere (VTA) instead of the intake. that way there is no vacuum drawing anything anywhere. Only crankcase pressure would push whatever through the AOS and then to the catch can.
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#22 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
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Might as well delete the whole thing if you do that. The vacuum through the crankcase is the whole point.
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