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Old 2007-09-18, 09:57 PM   #26
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after reading all of that im ditching mobil 1 for RP. great now im all wigged out and probably going to change my oil this week
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Old 2007-09-19, 07:15 AM   #27
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after reading all of that im ditching mobil 1 for RP. great now im all wigged out and probably going to change my oil this week
So do you still have to change your oil as frequently with Royal Purple? Because there is a small price difference..


I guess if you buy the 5 gallon drum from Royal Purple it works out to being about $12 more per oil change compared to Mobil 1.
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Old 2007-09-19, 07:19 AM   #28
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This brings me to another question. What oil filters does everyone use? I imagine if those of you who are using royal purple then you have stepped up your filter as well?
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Old 2007-09-19, 08:01 AM   #29
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Actually, the stock Subaru filters (made by Purlator) are pretty good. I still use them.
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Old 2007-09-19, 09:40 AM   #30
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Current definitive Subaru oil filter info at least in terms of internal construction.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16252

Basically, OEM is the winner.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:09 AM   #31
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The limiting factor in changing your oil is the filter. Most synthetic oils protect well into the 10K mile range and beyond but your filter may clog before then. I haven't been able to find the bigger OEM WRX filters (made by Purolater as Nick pointed out). They made it smaller so it wouldn't absorb as much radiant heat from the header but mine are heat wrapped...

A larger filter should be able to last longer without clogging so I think I'll be switching to the Mobil-1 M-110 or M-108 in the future. The M-110 is twice as tall though and I wouldn't want to risk scraping it on something. That would suck. Amsoil supposedly makes a good oil filter too.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:12 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by 100_Percent_Juice View Post
This brings me to another question. What oil filters does everyone use? I imagine if those of you who are using royal purple then you have stepped up your filter as well?
+1 on the OEM Purolators.

Though, I'm using the K&N ones because I use a larger Ford fitment filter on a remote setup.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:20 AM   #33
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The limiting factor in changing your oil is the filter. Most synthetic oils protect well into the 10K mile range and beyond but your filter may clog before then. I haven't been able to find the bigger OEM WRX filters (made by Purolater as Nick pointed out). They made it smaller so it wouldn't absorb as much radiant heat from the header but mine are heat wrapped...

A larger filter should be able to last longer without clogging so I think I'll be switching to the Mobil-1 M-110 or M-108 in the future. The M-110 is twice as tall though and I wouldn't want to risk scraping it on something. That would suck. Amsoil supposedly makes a good oil filter too.
If your engine's cold, you can just change the filter with a loss of less than half a quart. I will be doing 4k on filters and 8k on oil once I actually have a damn running car again.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:21 AM   #34
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Oh and another +1 for OEM filters.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:32 AM   #35
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Do you guys just buy the OEM filters in bulk then?
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:34 AM   #36
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Yeah, I've got about 5-6 sitting on my shelf at the moment.
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Old 2007-09-19, 11:47 AM   #37
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ok cool. I have always just picked up the fram filters at walmart for my other cars. Is something wrong with that filter?
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Old 2007-09-19, 11:54 AM   #38
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I think the Fram ones are okay. But, I believe they are more expensive, no? The OEM ones are only $6 or $8, and the Fram ones were closer to $10.
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Old 2007-09-19, 12:01 PM   #39
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I think the Fram ones are okay. But, I believe they are more expensive, no? The OEM ones are only $6 or $8, and the Fram ones were closer to $10.
Actually, the Fram filters are very cheap, and very crappy. Unless you're buying the more expensive Fram filters (the $8+ DoubleGuard, etc) ones, you're really not protecting the motor well.

Really, the OEM filters are the best setup.
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Old 2007-09-19, 12:08 PM   #40
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Oh yeah, I was only thinking about the nicer fram filters. I forgot all about the crappy cheap-ass ones they make for like $4 or whatever.

I haven't shopped for filters in probably 3 years. Now, I just go down to Subaru, but 4-5 OEM filters and let them sit on my shelf.
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Old 2007-09-19, 12:52 PM   #41
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If your engine's cold, you can just change the filter with a loss of less than half a quart. I will be doing 4k on filters and 8k on oil once I actually have a damn running car again.
So I've been told, but it sounds messy and even too cheap for me.
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Old 2007-09-19, 08:11 PM   #42
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+1 on the OEM Purolators.
OEM is not Purolator. It is Tokyo Roki Co. Ltd.

If you didn't find it my last link, this is the spreadsheet that has all sorts of good stuff about the different filters.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/oi...il_filters.xls

There are some good cheap ones, but the OEM is damn good.

Oh, and if you are sick of those stupid aluminum crush washers, get a reusable plastic/nylon or copper one at any auto parts store.
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Old 2007-09-19, 08:28 PM   #43
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Hmm, yeah I guess you are right. I hadn't taken a close look at the 2.5L turbo filters, which are indeed Tokyo Roki.

Subaru does use Purolator as an OEM supplier, though, for their non-turbo filters (and I could swear the early versions of the 2.0l OEM oil filter was also Purolator).

Either way, its almost a moot point because in both scenarios, the OEM beats out most standard replacement filters.
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Old 2007-09-19, 08:31 PM   #44
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Oh, and if you are sick of those stupid aluminum crush washers, get a reusable plastic/nylon or copper one at any auto parts store.
Better yet, get a Fumoto valve.
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Old 2007-09-19, 08:56 PM   #45
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So I guess I'll be trying out some Royal Purple tonight.

I've been meaning to try it, but laziness and walbogs have kept me with the more available Mobile 1. Anyway, the walbogs near my house ended up having some Royal Purple. 5qts left, to be exact. And now, no qts left.
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Old 2007-09-19, 09:06 PM   #46
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Better yet, get a Fumoto valve.
Yeah, a $25 valve that may leave more sludge and deposits in the bottom of the pan sounds like a great alternative to a $0.25 washer and is sure to get the approval of Seņor Cheap Bastard.
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Old 2007-09-19, 09:44 PM   #47
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Tell you what, the next time I drain my oil with the Fumoto, after the oil stops dripping, I'll pull the valve out and see how much additional sludge drips out.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:05 PM   #48
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Tell you what, the next time I drain my oil with the Fumoto, after the oil stops dripping, I'll pull the valve out and see how much additional sludge drips out.
Cool. It all depends on if the threads on the valve are deeper than the threads on the pan. I like the idea, but can imagine all sorts of bad things that might happen with it as well as the price.

Use a measuring cup or something to see how much. A cut open quart bottle works as well if it has that clear bit at the seam.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:15 PM   #49
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I'll buy you one if it's more than a tablespoon... I've also seen them "modded" by cutting a v at the bottom side of the threads.
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Old 2007-09-19, 10:19 PM   #50
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I'll buy you one if it's more than a tablespoon... I've also seen them "modded" by cutting a v at the bottom side of the threads.
Deal. And if it is less than a tablespoon, I'll buy you a $0.25 washer. And something greasy at a meet.

I'm really curious.
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