Oil Change - Page 3 - Subaru Enthusiasts Car Club of the Sierras

cody · 2007-09-19, 10:39 PM

Well I just changed my oil so it'll take a couple months before "the big event".

kidatari · 2007-09-20, 01:52 PM

I want to get one of these. Aeroquip Quick-Drain

Dean · 2007-09-20, 02:35 PM

O-rings are not a good choice for unsealing and resealing in a gritty environment like an oil pan. The probability of leakage and o-ring damage are pretty high over time. The Fumoto is a better design if you want something like this, and there is a nippled version that would give you the same functionality.

WRX06TR · 2007-11-14, 11:07 PM

Well, I know I am making way too big a deal about oil but I have a question. I just recently saw a few UOA results with Royal Purple, and apparently people have had problems with it degrading (thinning) down to near a 20W oil.

So my last oil change I switched to sythetic and used M1. Personally, it is really awkward for me to not be changing the oil every 3000 or so miles. So my question would be, besides the up in cost, would it matter if I run a cheap sythetic (M1, Q, Pennzoil) and just kept changing my oil ever 3000 or so miles? I know I could switch back to dino and run that with regular interval changes, but to my understanding sythentic holds up better. Any advice?

cody · 2007-11-14, 11:20 PM

I do seem to burn a little of the 5W30 RP. When I run 10W30 in the Summer, the dipstick is happier.

Joeyy · 2007-11-14, 11:35 PM

I use Mobil 1 and change it every 3k in the Jeep and Toyota. Even if they saw the you can go longer, you still have metal brake down and dirt. On the wagon, I'd change it every second autoX because I was being so harsh to her.

wrxkidid · 2007-11-14, 11:54 PM

Your so kind.

WRX06TR · 2007-11-15, 12:00 AM

I will probably just stick with M1, i was thinking about doing that anyway. I don't really buy into the Mobile 1 causing bearing failure thing. Me thinks it was people just running it for way to long with out changing. Plus its cheap.

Kevin M · 2007-11-15, 08:39 AM

Redline + oil analysis ftw.

sperry · 2007-11-15, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRX06TR

I will probably just stick with M1, i was thinking about doing that anyway. I don't really buy into the Mobile 1 causing bearing failure thing. Me thinks it was people just running it for way to long with out changing. Plus its cheap.

Mobil 1 has in fact changed their formula. If you're going to run it in a car that gets driven hard, run the 15w50. So when it thins out, it's still heavy weight enough.

Personally, I'm not going back to M1... not after splashing a liquefied rod bearing around the inside of my motor. Granted, the oil may not have been the direct cause of the failure, I figure why go with something that's got legitimate question marks around it. The extra cost of RedLine or Royal Purple is still far cheaper than yet another motor rebuild.

Kevin M · 2007-11-15, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

The extra cost of RedLine or Royal Purple is still far cheaper than yet another motor rebuild.

Absolutely. The dollar difference between the worst oil and best oil is small enough that the best is going to be the way to go.

WRX06TR · 2007-11-15, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

Absolutely. The dollar difference between the worst oil and best oil is small enough that the best is going to be the way to go.

Even if oil changes are still going to be at 3000 miles or so?

sperry · 2007-11-15, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRX06TR

Even if oil changes are still going to be at 3000 miles or so?

Let's do the math:

I can spend an extra $10 every 3000 miles on more expensive oil.

or

I can spend and extra $10,000 every 3000 miles on a new motor.

Yep, still seems cheaper to pony up for the oil, even when changing it every 3000 miles. 'Course I change my oil once every 100 miles, or once every blown rod bearing... whichever comes first.

cody · 2007-11-15, 11:44 AM

My opinion: If you're changing every 3K miles and never driving the car hard, M-1 10W30 is probably fine. However, if you're driving hard at all, go for a better oil. I paid $6.25/qt for the two cases (12qts/case) of RP, shipped to my house. If you buy it in the 5 gallon jug, it's even cheaper.

WRX06TR · 2007-11-15, 12:16 PM

Alright guys, thanks. You got me Scott, I think I am going to head down to Summit later and pick up some Redline (personal pref and we all love the gear oil anyway). Thanks for the input.

Edit: Will 5W30 with Redline be ok?

Dean · 2007-11-15, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRX06TR

Alright guys, thanks. You got me Scott, I think I am going to head down to Summit later and pick up some Redline (personal pref and we all love the gear oil anyway). Thanks for the input.

Edit: Will 5W30 with Redline be ok?

That is my oil and weight of choice.

Kevin M · 2007-11-15, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean

That is my oil and weight of choice.

+1.

dayofpain · 2007-11-15, 01:08 PM

in like the royal purple over the redline.

you want to run the best shit, get some Motul full syn or castrol Superbike. they actually make it in 5-30 or 5-40. whatever your flavor.

those are the only oils ill run in my bike. they arent cheap and castrol superbike smells like death. so when you burn it its kinda unpleasant.

dayofpain · 2007-11-15, 01:09 PM

oh and fumoto oil drain valve FTW

cody · 2007-11-26, 08:03 PM

Well Dean, it seems I owe you a Fumoto valve.

PM me your address and I'll ship it to you or if you prefer, I can just pay up in cash.

I'm thinking I'll mod mine and ask for a rematch at some point.

Dean · 2007-11-26, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody

Well Dean, it seems I owe you a Fumoto valve.
PM me your address and I'll ship it to you or if you prefer, I can just pay up in cash.

I'm thinking I'll mod mine and ask for a rematch at some point.

Buy me dinner or something. I'm sticking with the washer and bolt. The quantity is not the real issue IMHO, it is the heavy particles of whatever left behind as well.

cody · 2007-11-26, 08:58 PM

I'll tell you this, after the valve stopped dripping, I jacked up the entire driver side of the car with the valve open and about half a cup of oil gushed out of the valve. I'll certainly be doing that every time from now on. Normally I don't lift the car at all.

Dean · 2007-11-26, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody

I'll tell you this, after the valve stopped dripping, I jacked up the entire driver side of the car with the valve open and about half a cup of oil gushed out of the valve. I'll certainly be doing that every time from now on. Normally I don't lift the car at all.

I lift the car anyway and before I open the drain so the bottom of the pan gets washed by as much oil as possible.

cody · 2008-01-24, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean

Buy me dinner or something...

You coming to the meet tonight?

Dean · 2008-01-24, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody

You coming to the meet tonight?

I'll be there.

2007-09-19, 10:39 PM	#51
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	Well I just changed my oil so it'll take a couple months before "the big event". __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo.

2007-09-20, 02:35 PM	#53
Dean Señor Cheap Bastarde Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003 Location: $99 Tire Store Posts: 9,294 Car: $.04 STI Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.	O-rings are not a good choice for unsealing and resealing in a gritty environment like an oil pan. The probability of leakage and o-ring damage are pretty high over time. The Fumoto is a better design if you want something like this, and there is a nippled version that would give you the same functionality. __________________ I am a Commodore PET --- Now get off my lawn you kids... Last edited by Dean; 2007-09-20 at 02:37 PM.

2007-11-14, 11:20 PM	#55
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	I do seem to burn a little of the 5W30 RP. When I run 10W30 in the Summer, the dipstick is happier. __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo. Last edited by cody; 2007-11-15 at 10:41 AM. Reason: I does talk good!

2007-11-14, 11:54 PM	#57
wrxkidid EJ205 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Incline Village, NV Posts: 1,232 Car: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. 5.7l Class: None :/ Cory, just put a 4g63 in it.	Your so kind. __________________ Mosey down the road.

2007-11-15, 08:39 AM	#59
Kevin M EJ22T Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Reno Posts: 9,445 Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red Class: 19 FP	Redline + oil analysis ftw. __________________ FWD is the new AWD

2007-09-20, 01:52 PM	#52
kidatari EJ22 Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 291 Class: Low lol internet.	I want to get one of these. Aeroquip Quick-Drain

2007-11-14, 11:07 PM	#54
WRX06TR EJ251 Real Name: Nick P Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Reno Posts: 881 Car: 2005 STi Class: MadtyteTunerBro! Back to the studio!	Well, I know I am making way too big a deal about oil but I have a question. I just recently saw a few UOA results with Royal Purple, and apparently people have had problems with it degrading (thinning) down to near a 20W oil. So my last oil change I switched to sythetic and used M1. Personally, it is really awkward for me to not be changing the oil every 3000 or so miles. So my question would be, besides the up in cost, would it matter if I run a cheap sythetic (M1, Q, Pennzoil) and just kept changing my oil ever 3000 or so miles? I know I could switch back to dino and run that with regular interval changes, but to my understanding sythentic holds up better. Any advice?

2007-11-14, 11:35 PM	#56
Joeyy i can has kart? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CA Posts: 1,228	I use Mobil 1 and change it every 3k in the Jeep and Toyota. Even if they saw the you can go longer, you still have metal brake down and dirt. On the wagon, I'd change it every second autoX because I was being so harsh to her.

2007-11-15, 12:00 AM	#58
WRX06TR EJ251 Real Name: Nick P Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Reno Posts: 881 Car: 2005 STi Class: MadtyteTunerBro! Back to the studio!	I will probably just stick with M1, i was thinking about doing that anyway. I don't really buy into the Mobile 1 causing bearing failure thing. Me thinks it was people just running it for way to long with out changing. Plus its cheap.

2007-11-15, 11:44 AM	#64
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	My opinion: If you're changing every 3K miles and never driving the car hard, M-1 10W30 is probably fine. However, if you're driving hard at all, go for a better oil. I paid $6.25/qt for the two cases (12qts/case) of RP, shipped to my house. If you buy it in the 5 gallon jug, it's even cheaper. __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo.

2007-11-15, 12:16 PM	#65
WRX06TR EJ251 Real Name: Nick P Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Reno Posts: 881 Car: 2005 STi Class: MadtyteTunerBro! Back to the studio!	Alright guys, thanks. You got me Scott, I think I am going to head down to Summit later and pick up some Redline (personal pref and we all love the gear oil anyway). Thanks for the input. Edit: Will 5W30 with Redline be ok? Last edited by WRX06TR; 2007-11-15 at 12:21 PM.

2007-11-15, 01:08 PM	#68
dayofpain R.I.P. Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: reno, nv Posts: 599 Car: 09 335xi silva	in like the royal purple over the redline. you want to run the best shit, get some Motul full syn or castrol Superbike. they actually make it in 5-30 or 5-40. whatever your flavor. those are the only oils ill run in my bike. they arent cheap and castrol superbike smells like death. so when you burn it its kinda unpleasant. __________________ DayOfPain "In order for me to get busy at maximum efficiency, i need a girl with a big 400 ton booty."

2007-11-15, 01:09 PM	#69
dayofpain R.I.P. Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: reno, nv Posts: 599 Car: 09 335xi silva	oh and fumoto oil drain valve FTW __________________ DayOfPain "In order for me to get busy at maximum efficiency, i need a girl with a big 400 ton booty."

2007-11-26, 08:03 PM	#70
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	Well Dean, it seems I owe you a Fumoto valve. PM me your address and I'll ship it to you or if you prefer, I can just pay up in cash. I'm thinking I'll mod mine and ask for a rematch at some point. __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo.

2007-11-26, 08:58 PM	#72
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	I'll tell you this, after the valve stopped dripping, I jacked up the entire driver side of the car with the valve open and about half a cup of oil gushed out of the valve. I'll certainly be doing that every time from now on. Normally I don't lift the car at all. __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo.

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