my SSR's....are they worth it?

[tysonK]

So simply.

Should I see if I can sell my SSR's(and tires) and springs also I guess, and get Rotas(and azenis) and Coilovers?

I might only be able to get like $1300 for my wheels and tires considering the damage on the 2 of wheels.

The springs maybe $120.

Someone in the Bay Area Classfieds sold his for $1600 in prefect condition with almost new avs 100's.

The other option is wait it out till I get a better job or save up some money and get coilovers later. I'm not really in a hurry.

SSR and Tires(1300)+ Springs($120)=$1420
Rotas($500?)+Azenis(85?x4=340)+Coilovers($1500)=$2 340

$920 out of pocket for whole new setup? hello credit card?

[JC]

no

[ArthurS]

Originally Posted by JC

no

[Dean]

Art aprently had nothing to say, but wanted to be seen none the less.. He is desperate to catch up to Matt... Can we take away post credits for stuff like this???

Watch nasioc, i-club, etc for some used Tein Flexs for about $1000, dump the springs, still $900 or so out of pocket.

Or, buy John Evans's 2 way adjustable struts for $1100 or so & use with your springs.

[tysonK]

Originally Posted by Dean

Art aprently had nothing to say, but wanted to be seen none the less..

Watch nasioc, i-club, etc for some used Tein Flexs for about $1000, dump the springs, still $900 or so out of pocket.

Or, buy John Evans's 2 way adjustable struts for $1100 or so & use with your springs.

good points.

[ArthurS]

Fine....Your gold SSR's make your car look one of the best I have seen. I don't think you should jump on the Rota bandwagon just yet. They do look way to good to get rid of.

[ArthurS]

Originally Posted by Dean

Art aprently had nothing to say, but wanted to be seen none the less.. He is desperate to catch up to Matt... Can we take away post credits for stuff like this???

Posts:

MattR 1438
ArthurS 2341
sperry 3117

[sperry]

Originally Posted by Dean

Art aprently had nothing to say, but wanted to be seen none the less..

Art agreed with JC's no.

Tyson, are you sure you really want coil-overs now? Your car already looks good at its current height, and coil-overs aren't the most cost effective way to make your car faster at AutoX (concentrate on your driving and perhaps a rear swaybar if you feel you're pushing too much).

I think that if you went to coil-overs you'd just be spending a lot of money to have a bumpy ride on the street.

[Dean]

Am I on drugs, or was I reading an old thread when someone was saying must make 2000. It is clearly Friday late in the afternoon. I am loosing it.

Now I have to go search...

[tysonK]

well it looks like I see where this is going.

looks like the prodirve lights will be my last mod for a while then. :wink:

[tysonK]

Originally Posted by Dean

Am I on drugs, or was I reading an old thread when someone was saying must make 2000. It is clearly Friday late in the afternoon. I am loosing it.

Now I have to go search...

what are you searching for Dean you have everything damn it.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by tysonK

what are you searching for Dean you have everything damn it.

No, I'm searching for the post I was thinking of, and now I can't find it... Arrrggghhh...

[tysonK]

Originally Posted by Dean

No, I'm searching for the post I was thinking of, and now I can't find it... Arrrggghhh...

oh you mean scotts coilover thread?

[Dean]

I can't find it now, and I need to leave if I'm going to make OG in 35 minutes...

[MikeSTI]

I would say the NO's own you .......but then again I dont like credit debt that alone would make me wait tell I had the money, it would have a better feel of ownership pride

[MikeSTI]

Originally Posted by ArthurS

Posts:

MattR 1438
ArthurS 2341
sperry 3117

is it a race or somthing?

MikeSTi 597 :shock:

[Dean]

Mystery solved... The # of posts thing was something in Tyson's freaking Sig, so I couldn't find it, and of course he has changed it...

[dknv]

Originally Posted by ArthurS

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by sperry

Art agreed with JC's no.

Tyson, are you sure you really want coil-overs now? Your car already looks good at its current height, and coil-overs aren't the most cost effective way to make your car faster at AutoX (concentrate on your driving and perhaps a rear swaybar if you feel you're pushing too much).

I think that if you went to coil-overs you'd just be spending a lot of money to have a bumpy ride on the street.

Gotta agree with Scott here. Keep the wheels, go with more suspension later.

[Dean]

I thought about it some more, and think a list makes more snese, then answering your question...

I don't remember what all you have done besides springs, but here is the order I think that makes the most sense at least for an STX legal car. I balenced cost vs. benefit in establishing order. some of these are so close they are interchangable up or down 1 or 2.

Did I miss anything guys, or any big disagreements in order?

Seat Time
Harness
Camber Bolts and alignment
Tires
Brake pads
Drop in Air Filter
Sway bars (with adjustable end links, Poltec!)
Springs/dampers/coilovers
ALK Bushings only
Exhaust (Uppipe, and Turbo back must have Cat!)
Flash
Underdrive pulley
Engine/pitch mounts
Short throw shifter

Those are the basics, Then... (Order on these is ify)
Did I mention Seat Time?
Camber/Caster Plates
Better springs/dampers/coilovers bump and rebound adjustable
Brakes? (OK, for STX you don't need these, but if you plan to track it, you may.)
Headers
Rear Lateral Links (loose rear camber bolts and plates if used)
CAI?

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by Dean

Did I miss anything guys, or any big disagreements in order?

Seat Time
Harness
Tires +1
Sway bars (with adjustable end links, Poltec!)+3
Camber Bolts and alignment
Springs/dampers/coilovers+1
Exhaust (Uppipe, and Turbo back must have Cat!)+4
Brake pads and fluid
Drop in Air Filter
ALK Bushings only
Flash
Underdrive pulley
Engine/pitch mounts
Short throw shifter

Those are the basics, Then... (Order on these is ify)
Did I mention Seat Time?
Camber/Caster Plates
Better springs/dampers/coilovers bump and rebound adjustable
Brakes? (OK, for STX you don't need these, but if you plan to track it, you may.)
Headers
Rear Lateral Links (loose rear camber bolts and plates if used)
CAI?

After driver skill, nothing is more important than tires IMO. And by far the best mod I made to my car was the rear sway bar, although WRX drivers with a 17 or 20mm bar aren't going to notice the same difference I did coming from a 13mm bar. I also think the uppipe/exhaust is really important, not just for the +25-30 peak horsepower, but because of how much it broadens the power band, reduces lag, and increases throttle response.

Also, sinc enobody uses a car *strictly* for autocross and competes in ST-X, we also ned to take street performance and trackability into consideration. Personally, I don't think stock WRX brakes even need pads and fluid to autocross, but I wouldn't touch a racetrack without them (in fact I was unwilling to track even my RS until I moved up to 4 pots).

[MattR]

I'm with Kevin,,,Seat time takes the cake, but tires are second..

[Dean]

Great comments...

Keep in mind, bang for your buck was my criteria for the sort.

Camber bolts for example are $40 or so, and can be a big help. Sway bars + adjustable end links are $500...

You are right, tires should have been higher, but they are $400 or so, especially if you include mounting and balancing.

Exhaust (Uppipe, and turbo back) is up in the $1000 range unless you gut the stock stuff. Maybe we need to clarify this one...

Here is my guess on order...

Cat back
Uppipe
Downpipe
High flow cat

Now where would you put them in the list?

[Kevin M]

Good point on bang for the buck. But, if you are that limited by cost, you'd be running in D Stock and would have an entirely different set of priorities (except it wouls still start with driver skill and tires ).

For exhaust upgrades, I always recommend getting a full turboback that is designed from the start to work together. Don't piece together downpipe X with catback Y. To avoid semantic arguments on that point I usually say go with the uppipe first. Slightly less peak hp gains than a downpipe only, but faster spool and less lag, which is more important in autocross. You can get a full turbnoback from Nate for a lot less than $1000, including a high flow cat.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

Good point on bang for the buck. But, if you are that limited by cost, you'd be running in D Stock and would have an entirely different set of priorities (except it wouls still start with driver skill and tires ).

I don't know. To me competitive in D Stock you need to spend about $3000 on shocks!

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

For exhaust upgrades, I always recommend getting a full turboback that is designed from the start to work together. Don't piece together downpipe X with catback Y. To avoid semantic arguments on that point I usually say go with the uppipe first. Slightly less peak hp gains than a downpipe only, but faster spool and less lag, which is more important in autocross. You can get a full turboback from Nate for a lot less than $1000, including a high flow cat.

IMHO the biggest restriction is the axel back, and in terms of price, nothing beats the John Evans(TM) cat back straight pipe with mandrel S Bend for about $100 if you have to do it in peices. I would agree though that a matched Turbo back W/cat is best, but add an uppipe which was in the list, and I bet Nate can't get much under a grand in stainless which IMHO is a minimum.