Front Swaybar Install Q

[MattR]

So, I want to get the front bar put on this week, I was trying to read up on the install, but I've read two different approaches.


Do you want the front tires off the ground? or on Ramps?

Also, I will need to remove the subframe correct?

If anyone has done the front bar themselve,s i would appreciate some input, as I don't have a lot of time this week.

[MikeSTI]

well be ready to remove a lot of bolts!!!!+1 - subframe, some other members, end links

the car can be on jack stands. Hope that helps

[sperry]

Originally Posted by MikeSTI

well be ready to remove a lot of bolts!!!!+1 - subframe, some other members, end links

the car can be on jack stands. Hope that helps

Ramps are necessary to ensure you preload the endlink properly... i.e. you're not just pounding them in.

A lowered car usually won't have too much of an issue since there's very little droop.

[Kevin M]

Ramps are the better approach, but you might have issues getting your front wheels on a set. You could also just put it up on jackstands than acquire a second jack to lift both front wheels an equal amount to pre-load.

[MattR]

Yeah, I was thinking that I may just try jackstands, because there really isn't much droop at all with the coilovers.

[dayofpain]

whynot just call me butthead?


not; call me butthead!

but; call me! butthead!

[Dean]

Preload End Links?

If the swaybar is properly installed, it should move fairly freely in it's mounts, and unless you are circle tracking, you don't want preload. Attaching the end links can wait until it is back on the ground I would think. If your sway bar does not move freely, then you need to shim the "D" bracket to allow it to do so. Jack Stands and wheels off should give you more room to work I would think though I did not do my bar.

Assuming your end links are adjustable length solid bushings, you want to do them after the car is settled anyway, so drive it with the bar zip tied up and then park it as level as possible, maybe on some 2x4s or something to get easier access to hook them up with no preload. Don't turn the wheels to install the end links! It will likely change the corner heights.

Do not worry if they are not exactly the same length.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by Dean

Preload End Links?

If the swaybar is properly installed, it should move fairly freely in it's mounts, and unless you are circle tracking, you don't want preload. Attaching the end links can wait until it is back on the ground I would think. If your sway bar does not move freely, then you need to shim the "D" bracket to allow it to do so. Jack Stands and wheels off should give you more room to work I would think though I did not do my bar.

Assuming your end links are adjustable length solid bushings, you want to do them after the car is settled anyway, so drive it with the bar zip tied up and then park it as level as possible, maybe on some 2x4s or something to get easier access to hook them up with no preload. Don't turn the wheels to install the end links! It will likely change the corner heights.

Do not worry if they are not exactly the same length.

Dean, set your ride height to about 12.5" and see if you can fit under there to hook up the endlinks. It's damn near impossible... you need room.

Without ramps, you can usually get one hooked up, but the other one involves a breaker-bar for leverage and lots of cussing. You can flex the bar enough to get the link in there, but I worry about torquing the endlink bolts down under that pre-load. It's probably not a really big deal, since I'm talking about fixed length endlinks, but it's still something to consider.

With adjustable length endlinks, then you *have* to get the car flat and level, which means ramps for sure if you can't squeeze under there.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by Dean

Assuming your end links are adjustable length solid bushings...

With non-adjustables, do it any way you can... nothing matters except making sure the bar itself moves freely... With adjustables, eliminating preload is hopefully why you have them... (Or they came with your bar)

The corners have to be settled, so you should drive it with the bar tied up, and then as evenly as possible drive it up on something to give you the room to work. Idealy, all 4 wheels should be level when you are ready to attach them, or at least the front two, and the rear two...

[MattR]

OKay, the job is complete....Thanks big-time to Mike K for all the help....After the meeting tonight, I just wanted to get the damn thing done, kind of last minute, but it went well. The job is a bitch, I will not deny.

So, we jacked it up on stands, pulled the tires, and subframe. about 2.5 hours total...so it didn;t go real quick. Car's done though.

[dayofpain]

see u wasted so much time...

sigh.

takes me 30 mins...

glad you got it done though

[MikeSTI]

Originally Posted by dayofpain

see u wasted so much time...

sigh.

takes me 30 mins...

glad you got it done though

blah blah blah 30 mins my ass maybe on your car with no subframe.......wait thats right this is Matts car with subframe

Glad you got it done Matt, mine took 3 hours by myself with a few pauses

[dayofpain]

30 mins, subframe included.

dont cry cause you dont have an impact.

i offered. :/

[sperry]

If you've done it a few times before, and have the right tools, 30-45 minutes is about right. 10 minutes for the sub-frame each way (well 6 to take it off and 14 to put it back on...), and 10 to 20 minutes for the bar itself.

[dayofpain]

yeah i had everything off in 10, including sway bar. greasing bushings takes 2 minutes everything back on in about 20


reason i know times is cause i did it at work on my lunch break

[MattR]

Fuck you Both. (Scott and Phil).

I took so long because we tried to do it without removing the subframe at first, that was a waste of time, by the time we did it right, it went pretty smooth.

[dayofpain]

LOL holy crap you actually tried that ?

more balls than me!

[qksubi]

Originally Posted by MattR

Fuck you Both. (Scott and Phil).

I took so long because we tried to do it without removing the subframe at first, that was a waste of time, by the time we did it right, it went pretty smooth.

Sorry man Ill take the blame for that one

[MattR]

Originally Posted by qksubi

Sorry man Ill take the blame for that one

Mike and I concluded that it is impossible to do, without destroying thise little metal hoses in there...scary.

[qksubi]

I think those are power stering lines

[tysonK]

You got it done, your car feels better.

You win.