Scotty's EJ22T tech questions

[ScottyS]

Originally Posted by sperry

Oh, in regards to the 3-bond question... Permatex Right Stuff is the equivalent, and it's easy to get at pretty much any Kragen/Napa type place.

Sweet, that sounds better than the stuff I already have.

[ScottyS]

Also, I posted a question in the OP about a small part of the stock STi exhaust system.

[sperry]

I believe that flange/spring section goes between the downpipe and the mid pipe, no? I've never had an STi exhaust, but the WRX exhaust uses those springs around the bolts flange thingy there to allow the pipes to flex/pivot in their soft rubber hangers without leaking.

[ScottyS]

2 hours door to door for an $80 correct diff - priceless.

[ScottyS]

Here is that part, I believe that it goes between the downpipe and the midpipe, but I'm not exactly sure.....

STi Stock Part?

[sperry]

That doesn't look very stock. Is that by chance an adapter for a 3" downpipe to a stock mid pipe or something?

[100_Percent_Juice]

That looks just like the doughnut flange on a stock exhaust. The end closest to the "fivestar" logo would be pointing toward the front of the car, if it were a stock piece. What diameter is the tube?

[Dewey]

in regards to the cutting and splicing of the o2 sensor.. you probably will be fine, unless you are extending it more than a foot, added wire=more electrical resistance, meaning different readings. some people have issues with this, others dont. the readings will not be so much that your car will run differently, but im not too sure about the long term.

[ScottyS]

Originally Posted by sperry

That doesn't look very stock. Is that by chance an adapter for a 3" downpipe to a stock mid pipe or something?

That may be, the ID is freakin huge. I'm not gonna sweat it, and I'll just put the exhaust in duplicating the fasteners of the stock setup.

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by sperry

That doesn't look very stock. Is that by chance an adapter for a 3" downpipe to a stock mid pipe or something?

Vice-versa. Stock downpipe to 3" catback.

[ScottyS]

It looks like I will be pulling the motor and possibly doing a rebuild. Sperry has the following comments in light of efforts of his own:

Well, the first thing I'll say is: if you end up needing a short block, just buy an STi one, sell the EJ22T to the highest bidder even if it's broken. Basically, the EJ22T block is the best block Subaru's ever made: closed deck, oil squirters, etc. Even if it needs to be sleeved, it will probably sell for $1000 as a starting point for someone building a monster motor.

Likely, the motor just needs to be honed for new rings (or perhaps bored, but that will mean new oversized pistons), and new bearings. That is assuming you've got bottom end noise. If the top end is the problem, it's probably just in need of a valve job.

Over at AIMS, the hone/rings will cost you probably $600 if you pull the motor yourself. A valve job on the heads is probably another $600. But I'm just guessing. You'll want to give them a call and talk to Robert if you're interested in having them do the work.

As far as labor... if you can pull the motor yourself, pull off all the accessories and wiring, and pull the heads off... then reverse the process once the shortblock and heads are spruced up at a machine shop, you've just saved yourself $2000 to $3000. And to do that, you really don't need much more than basic hand tools and a engine hoist, with the exception of dealing with the A/C lines (which if you carefully follow the FSM, you should be able to leave charged and work around, but on an old car, they'll likely leak during the process so you'll need to purge and charge them after the swap's done).