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2006-12-06, 02:50 PM | #1 |
EJ205
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,840
Car: Impreza and an Impreza
Class: AS / CRS PerfStock
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Rotors, blank, slotted, drilled?
I just replaced my brake pads, and got my rotors turned, and found out my front rotors are warped.
As you all know (or don't) I Auto cross, Rally cross, and some occasional track days. Should I stick with Blanks Or go to slotted, drilled, or drilled+Slotted? an explanation would be nice, but i trust the senior seccs members enough to blindly follow at this point. (lemming status has been achieved!) |
2006-12-06, 03:02 PM | #2 |
El Matador
Real Name: Matt Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Reno, NV
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Car: 2012 Toyota Tacoma
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I've had great luck with the DBA Slotted 1pc rotors. They're somewhat affordable and have held up quite well.
Also, Dean found some discount generic brand rotor that I would try, since they're so cheap, I'll look for the link later.
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2006-12-06, 03:10 PM | #3 |
EJ22T
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Reno
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Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red
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First off, your rotors do not "warp"- ask Caroll Smith, author of numerous awesome race car/driving information books.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml Second, I would say plain or slotted- definitely not drilled. Plains is best for autocross, slotted can help at the track, but honestly if you have the right pads it's far from necessary. I have no real argumetns against slots though. The traits I would shop rotors on are vein/venting design, material (good luck getting any har dinfo on their smelting process!) and then price if there are multiple rotors that satisfied me on the other criteria. Awesome brake info: http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm http://www.geocities.com/nosro/abs_faq/ http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/arc...hp/t-1122.html And of course... Let's talk about brakes! Best tech thread on this board, hands down.
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2006-12-06, 03:12 PM | #4 |
Señor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
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The turning should have unwarped them if there is such a thing as warped in the first place.
There are an infinite number of references on this. The short answer is blank, or slotted unless you have a huge need for the additional cooling of drilled and can afford the cheese grater effect on pad life and the tendency for cracking on all but cast in holes. Slotted will wipe moisture, and pad sluff which is good at minor cost to pad life. Blank will be cheapest and best pad live. For your frequent cold/wet use, I would suggest slotted. Prices on STI rotors are down under $200 for a front set, and under $150 for rears, so it is no longer a super big deal if you don't like them.
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2006-12-06, 03:13 PM | #5 |
EJ205
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Reno, NV
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*frantically clicks on provided links*
Thanks |
2006-12-07, 08:35 AM | #6 |
EJ251
Real Name: Nat S Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Reno, NV USA
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Car: 06 S2000
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I like sloted+drilled look nice on the car but I only auto-x no TT and it's still have many hair linecracks. I heard that do not use the e-brake after hot lap it might warp the rear rotors. I just park my car in gear after the hot lap.
I donot turn my rotors just changing the pads. |
2006-12-07, 08:59 AM | #7 | |
Candy Mountain
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Quote:
Some slotted rotors would sure look nice Alex. As long as they aren't much more expensive, I'd get some of those. |
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2006-12-07, 09:12 AM | #8 | |
The Doink
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Quote:
The "e-brake" is really a *parking brake*... I wouldn't use it while rolling for anything less than an actual emergency. Plus, replacing the shoes in those is a huge PITA.
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2006-12-07, 10:09 AM | #9 |
Nightwalker
Real Name: Austin Join Date: Dec 2002
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Yeah, there's nothing wrong with using your discs coming off track. What do you think racecars use? Most have no parking brake system at all. Just try to avoid clamping down on the brakes when the wheels have come to a full stop.
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2006-12-07, 10:46 AM | #10 |
Candy Mountain
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It's just because the R4-S's get a real work out and I don't want them xfering material to the disk and causing pulsing. It's not going to wear out the e-brake pads if I use them to come to a stop from a slow role.
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2006-12-07, 10:58 AM | #11 | |
The Doink
Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
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2006-12-07, 11:59 AM | #12 |
Candy Mountain
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If you say so.
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2006-12-08, 09:18 AM | #13 |
EJ205
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Reno, NV
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I do really like the look of Drilled & Slotted also.
sounds like some slotted will be great for me , esp with lots of snow driving (hopefully) in my near future hopefully i can find a good deal on some . Trying to work with a possible new connection, he was showing a slotted disc for 70$ which makes me think they found the RS or WRX size, as i've had a few car places do already. |
2006-12-08, 12:08 PM | #14 |
Token
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2006-12-08, 12:22 PM | #15 | |
EJ205
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Reno, NV
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"pedal on the right"
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Quote:
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2006-12-08, 01:06 PM | #16 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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lol, I think to own a Subaru, you have to subscribe to that belief.
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2006-12-08, 01:34 PM | #17 | |
Señor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
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Quote:
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2006-12-08, 02:49 PM | #18 | |
EJ207
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2006-12-08, 02:58 PM | #19 | |
Captain Turbo
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Quote:
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2006-12-08, 03:36 PM | #20 |
EJ207
Join Date: Apr 2005
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Master Slurper.
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Did you ever read that thread about the guy that used socks in place of an oil cap in his M3?
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2006-12-08, 03:44 PM | #21 | |
Token
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Quote:
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2006-12-08, 04:02 PM | #22 | |
EJ205
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2008-09-29, 12:11 PM | #23 |
Candy Mountain
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So I've got 96K on the car and am still on the original rotors. They don't pulse at all and have never been turned. They do have grooves from normal wear, but nothing crazy and judging by the lip where the pad doesn't contact the rotor, they seem like they have plenty of meat left on them. I wish I had a micrometer. Maybe I should pick one up.
But OEM blanks are only like $125 shipped and I'm about to do new R4-S pads on all 4 corners (well actually, I might go back to the stock pads for the Winter since they have over 50% left). Any reason to consider new rotors for the new pads? Anyone know the min. and OEM Thickness for front and rear rotors?
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2008-09-29, 01:48 PM | #24 |
Señor Cheap Bastarde
Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003
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Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.
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Min thickness should be stamped or cast into the rotor.
Pick up a cheap digital caliper at Harbor Freight. If they are not down to minimum, it might be time to turn them to go with the new pads. $125/pair or each? A pair it is a fair price, each it is a rip-off...
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2008-09-29, 03:10 PM | #25 |
Candy Mountain
Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005
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Pair. Okay, thanks. I'm not a big fan of turning rotors though. I can never find a place that does it on the weekends, you end up with less heat sync material, pulsing always comes back, etc, and it's just too much of a hassle when new ones are so inexpensive.
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