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Old 2009-09-01, 11:02 AM   #26
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And at least at HF, they are only $50-80...

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...lmet&Submit=Go
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Old 2009-09-01, 11:06 AM   #27
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:08 PM   #28
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And at least at HF, they are only $50-80...

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...lmet&Submit=Go
I figured out why they're so much cheaper... they're don't meet the current ANSI standard. They meet the 1989 standard.

That said, at 1/3 the cost of a current auto dimmer with those features, and 1/2 the cost of a bottom of the barrel current auto dimmer, over my lunch break, I bit the bullet and picked one up. At only $20 over the cost of standard glass helmet, I figure it'll work for me considering it's not like I'll be using it every day.

I do feel kinda sticky all over though after being in Harbor Freight. :shudder:
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:10 PM   #29
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Also, I went over to airgas at Juice's recommendation and the chick that helped me out was super helpful. I bought a 40CF tank of C25, which should be plenty to get me by for a while. I thought I wanted an 80CF tank... turns out, the 40CF tank is what I thought the 80Cf tank was. I would have had to go home and pick up the truck if I were buying the 80CF tank.
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:26 PM   #30
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I figured out why they're so much cheaper... they're don't meet the current ANSI standard. They meet the 1989 standard.

I do feel kinda sticky all over though after being in Harbor Freight. :shudder:
Any idea what the ANSI change was? Is the new standard less than 1/25,000 second for auto-dim?

I know, saving money can have that effect.
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:35 PM   #31
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Any idea what the ANSI change was? Is the new standard less than 1/25,000 second for auto-dim?

I know, saving money can have that effect.
The new standard requires manufacturers to rate the LCD time within a temperature range (30F to 130F IIRC). A lot of good a 1/25,000 helmet does if it's only that responsive at 150F, meanwhile, on a cold day it's 1/2000.

For the most part, the cheap-o autoglass helmets that meet the current standard are 1/3600. Which is fine for occasional use, but tend not to work for TIG welding below 20amps, or for frequent tack welding where all you're doing is striking an arc over and over again. They're also not usually adjustable.

The HF helmet I picked up says it's 1/25,000 (which is comical because even the $600 helmets are only 1/20,000) and can be adjusted from shade #9 to #13. I'm guessing it's actually more like a 1/3600 at cold temps, which is fine at that price, IMO.
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:50 PM   #32
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The new standard requires manufacturers to rate the LCD time within a temperature range (30F to 130F IIRC). A lot of good a 1/25,000 helmet does if it's only that responsive at 150F, meanwhile, on a cold day it's 1/2000.

For the most part, the cheap-o autoglass helmets that meet the current standard are 1/3600. Which is fine for occasional use, but tend not to work for TIG welding below 20amps, or for frequent tack welding where all you're doing is striking an arc over and over again. They're also not usually adjustable.

The HF helmet I picked up says it's 1/25,000 (which is comical because even the $600 helmets are only 1/20,000) and can be adjusted from shade #9 to #13. I'm guessing it's actually more like a 1/3600 at cold temps, which is fine at that price, IMO.
Makes sense. Make a habit of blinking as you strike the arc just in case. Still better than flipping down a helmet as you do.

I'm jealous. I've wanted to learn to weld for years and never done it.
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Old 2009-09-01, 01:54 PM   #33
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Makes sense. Make a habit of blinking as you strike the arc just in case. Still better than flipping down a helmet as you do.

I'm jealous. I've wanted to learn to weld for years and never done it.
If it's any consolation: welding is messy, hot, stinky, burns your clothes, and I'm really bad at it.
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Old 2009-09-01, 03:50 PM   #34
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Old 2009-09-01, 09:39 PM   #35
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So I knew welding arcs gave off the full UV spectrum but I didn't think 10 minutes of welding would give my arms a sunburn.
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Old 2009-09-02, 04:50 AM   #36
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So I knew welding arcs gave off the full UV spectrum but I didn't think 10 minutes of welding would give my arms a sunburn.


Long sleeve shirt & jeans, dude. If I'm going to be doing anything other than tacking things in place, I have a heavy cotton button up shirt I keep in the garage just for welding, and a leather apron I use sometimes too.
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Old 2009-09-02, 09:39 AM   #37
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Long sleeve shirt & jeans, dude. If I'm going to be doing anything other than tacking things in place, I have a heavy cotton button up shirt I keep in the garage just for welding, and a leather apron I use sometimes too.
Yeah, I wasn't planning on really doing much. I was just screwing around for about 10 minutes to see if I got the gas hooked up properly. W/ a 20% duty cycle, I couldn't have been exposed to the arc for more than about 2 minutes total... yet my left bicep between where my gloves end and my sleeve began now has a nice sunburn.
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Old 2009-09-02, 10:46 AM   #38
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Welding is hard on your skin eyes and lungs. Always have excellent ventilation and skin protection as you now know.
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Old 2009-09-02, 11:18 AM   #39
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Oh my god, what a nice break from being over at Flat4
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Old 2009-09-03, 11:18 AM   #40
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I do feel kinda sticky all over though after being in Harbor Freight. :shudder:
In case anyone else is planning to follow suit: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...7&keycode=0000
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Old 2009-09-04, 06:04 AM   #41
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I've been waiting for Josh to chime in over hear. He's started welding too. We are barrowing a 240v tig and got an old mig (I think) for $50 bucks from the neighbor across the street. From the looks of Josh's work I'd say the tig is a lot easier to work with. For safety He has a sweet blue welding jacket with flames and works in his mechanics monkey suit. I have a monkey suit too for working on the 510 . I am enjoying grinding on the car. We are fortunately to have a welding supply place a mile from the house.

Good luck Scott with the practice

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Old 2009-09-04, 08:22 AM   #42
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I don't know why they don't teach tig earlier in school. The way I was taught was oxy-acetylene , arc, mig, then tig last. I think tig should have come right after oxy-acet because the hand movements are the most similar with the addition of a foot pedal.
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Old 2009-09-04, 10:49 PM   #43
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I've been waiting for Josh to chime in over hear. He's started welding too. We are barrowing a 240v tig and got an old mig (I think) for $50 bucks from the neighbor across the street. From the looks of Josh's work I'd say the tig is a lot easier to work with. For safety He has a sweet blue welding jacket with flames and works in his mechanics monkey suit. I have a monkey suit too for working on the 510 . I am enjoying grinding on the car. We are fortunately to have a welding supply place a mile from the house.

Good luck Scott with the practice

Correction:

I have a borrowed 240v Lincoln MIG, and my personal Miller 240v ARC/Stick welder. MIG is running .023" wire with C25/Gold Gas (25% CO2/75% Argon)

I probably have 30 minutes on the MIG welder. I was able to take to it much more quickly than the stick welder, as stick is tough to start.

I also have a HF Auto-darkening helmet, it's awesome. Cost ~60 I think.

My recommendation is to not waste your time on a 120v machine, but that's my personal opinion. But I intend on welding stuff thicker than 1/4". I just use the dryer plug in our garage, and have the welders setup to use the same plug, works like a champion.

I'd like to get a TIG setup, as that's what I'd really like to cut my teeth on, but I'm gonna try and rack up the hours on the MIG before I consider dropping 1600+ on a TIG outfit.

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Old 2009-09-05, 02:12 PM   #44
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Correction:

I have a borrowed 240v Lincoln MIG, and my personal Miller 240v ARC/Stick welder. MIG is running .023" wire with C25/Gold Gas (25% CO2/75% Argon)

I probably have 30 minutes on the MIG welder. I was able to take to it much more quickly than the stick welder, as stick is tough to start.

I also have a HF Auto-darkening helmet, it's awesome. Cost ~60 I think.

My recommendation is to not waste your time on a 120v machine, but that's my personal opinion. But I intend on welding stuff thicker than 1/4". I just use the dryer plug in our garage, and have the welders setup to use the same plug, works like a champion.

I'd like to get a TIG setup, as that's what I'd really like to cut my teeth on, but I'm gonna try and rack up the hours on the MIG before I consider dropping 1600+ on a TIG outfit.
Considering I got my brand new 120V MIG for about $600 less than the cheapest 240V Lincoln, I'm gonna go ahead and just do two passes on the thicker stuff.
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Old 2009-09-08, 10:31 AM   #45
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I've decided that welding is not very hard. W/ the autoglass mask, it's a cinch to weld stuff together. However, making really pretty, pro-quality looking welds is still beyond me... but that's not a big deal to me, 'cause I'm not selling anything.

Over the weekend, I built myself a trailer hitch mounted angle bender. I'll do up at least 10 gauge 5" wide steel, up to a 90 deg bend, with a 1/2" radius. Though if I were to cut the hinge I used off and flip it 180 deg I think I can get more like 120 deg bends out of it...

Either way, I've got what I need now to make some seat brackets for the SVX, I just need some 10 gauge steel at a decent price. Anyone have a recommendation for a local place that sells steel stock? Home Depot is retard expensive and has no selection (I priced out the cost of material to build a welding cart, and the material alone cost more than just buying a cart from Lincoln).
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Old 2009-09-08, 12:43 PM   #46
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Some scrap yards resell used stock. The one on 4th street used to be a great source for all sorts of stuff, but then they closed, but I heard they reopened. There is also one down in Moundhouse I got some stuff from in the past. You just wonder around and find pieces that match your needs and pay by the pound.
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Old 2009-09-08, 01:43 PM   #47
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Some scrap yards resell used stock. The one on 4th street used to be a great source for all sorts of stuff, but then they closed, but I heard they reopened. There is also one down in Moundhouse I got some stuff from in the past. You just wonder around and find pieces that match your needs and pay by the pound.
Ugh.

I'd rather just by a couple of 10ga 2"x6' pieces of mild steel and be done with it. Only problem is that Home Depot/Lowes don't seem to carry stuff that big, and if they did, it'd be $45 each.
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Old 2009-09-08, 03:09 PM   #48
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Sorry, I thought you wanted cheap. Have you tried the first 5 or so of these... If you need something but can't go get it during business hours, I might be able to get it for you.

Metal Masters is Pat R.'s buddy who used to give us a killer deal on powder coating, but he has a huge metal fab shop as well.

Carson masonry & steel supply would work as well, but they are a drive.
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Old 2009-09-08, 03:29 PM   #49
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Sorry, I thought you wanted cheap. Have you tried the first 5 or so of these... If you need something but can't go get it during business hours, I might be able to get it for you.

Metal Masters is Pat R.'s buddy who used to give us a killer deal on powder coating, but he has a huge metal fab shop as well.

Carson masonry & steel supply would work as well, but they are a drive.
There's a difference between "cheap" and "having to get a tetanus shot before I go rooting around in a scrap yard" and Home Depot's 300% markup. So yeah, I do want cheap, just not so cheap it takes me a whole day of digging through a scrap yard to find what I'm looking for every time I need to build something.

Certainly I can do the legwork of calling around and trying to find a place... but I'd much rather go somewhere that someone else has already used that can be recommended. I'm a noob at this stuff, so I'd much rather go on the personal recommendation of someone that deals with places like this (Knucklesplitter, where are you?) than my own experience.
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Old 2009-09-08, 04:36 PM   #50
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