Okay, now what? (sperry's motor tear-down thread) - Page 11 - Subaru Enthusiasts Car Club of the Sierras

SteveM · 2008-03-11, 07:00 AM

So the floor came out OK, yes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

How's your garage looking? Mine looks lumpy and kinda flaky. I'm worried that it's been too cold to properly cure... I hope it doesn't take like 15 days to harden! I need to move my shit in there!

As far as the ball joint extractor, I think I could use it. When are you free? Can I come by and pick it up sometime?

sperry · 2008-03-12, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveM

So the floor came out OK, yes?

It looks wrinkly but seems decent.

And I ended up at Kragen for something else and noticed they had pickle forks for cheap so I picked one up and demolished my ball-joints until they came off. Are they supposed to be destroyed during removal?

Dean · 2008-03-12, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

And I ended up at Kragen for something else and noticed they had pickle forks for cheap so I picked one up and demolished my ball-joins until they came off. Are they supposed to be destroyed during removal?

YES! You, a cheap tool....

SteveM · 2008-03-13, 07:38 AM

Yeah, mine's not smooth as glass either, but seems tough enough.

Yeah, destroying the ball joint is about my luck with pickle forks so far too!

That's why I bought that other tool, but if you were replacing them anyway...

Quote:

Originally Posted by sperry

It looks wrinkly but seems decent.

And I ended up at Kragen for something else and noticed they had pickle forks for cheap so I picked one up and demolished my ball-joints until they came off. Are they supposed to be destroyed during removal?

knucklesplitter · 2008-03-13, 08:00 AM

Scott, your cold-side IC pipe is at the welder right now. If he doesn't come thru with it today I have a spare Perrin pipe you could use to get the car started.

JC · 2008-03-13, 11:36 AM

I keep waiting for the post where Scott gives up and buys an STi.

Kevin M · 2008-03-13, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

I keep waiting for the post where Scott gives up and buys a Porsche.

Fixed.

JC · 2008-03-13, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

Fixed.

Haha, probably. Scott, I'm sure James can get you a clean 911 for a good price.

knucklesplitter · 2008-03-13, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklesplitter

Scott, your cold-side IC pipe is at the welder right now. If he doesn't come thru with it today I have a spare Perrin pipe you could use to get the car started.

It's done. I bring it by later.

sperry · 2008-03-13, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklesplitter

It's done. I bring it by later.

Sweet! I'm back and forth between houses... gimme a call before you head over and I'll meet you at the old place.

knucklesplitter · 2008-03-13, 03:57 PM

S'more Cossy oil pan to header luv...

sperry · 2008-03-13, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knucklesplitter

S'more Cossy oil pan to header luv...

That's basically the situation I was in. But now I'm on stock headers, and I think I'll just get 'em ported/polished/coated/crosspiped eventually and not bother w/ other headers.

...which means, I've got a set of Gruppe-S headers, coated, pre-tapped for an EGT probe (1/8" NPT), in great shape if anyone's interested. They're selling for $575 from Gruppe-S, I'll sell mine for $300. Great headers, but the oil pan is way more important to me at the track.

100_Percent_Juice · 2008-03-14, 07:51 AM

^I read that you don't need to coat the stockers because they are so thick.

Kevin M · 2008-03-14, 07:59 AM

It's not to help the exhaust, it's to keep heat out of the engine bay.

100_Percent_Juice · 2008-03-14, 08:27 AM

^yeah, I didn't say it was to help the exhaust. I have seen several people say that since its thick cast, that you would be throwing money away by coating it because the benefit would be small compared to coating a thin after market header. Again, this is what I Read.

Dean · 2008-03-14, 08:58 AM

As long as you are stock, put the heat shields back on after cutting strategic holes/slots for sensors and cables. they should be as good if not better than any coating.

sperry · 2008-03-14, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean

As long as you are stock, put the heat shields back on after cutting strategic holes/slots for sensors and cables. they should be as good if not better than any coating.

I've only got the heat shields for the cross-pipe and the top half of the passenger side header, I left them on. Hopefully that will keep me from melting my fan shroud again over there.

knucklesplitter · 2008-03-17, 08:36 AM

Scott's car started on the first try yesterday.

cody · 2008-03-17, 08:50 AM

:headbang:

SteveM · 2008-03-17, 10:21 AM

Nice!

MPREZIV · 2008-03-17, 11:16 AM

Fucking SWEET!!!

WRX06TR · 2008-03-17, 11:36 AM

Awesome...can't wait to see it running!

Kevin M · 2008-03-17, 11:37 AM

Now that deserves a

sperry · 2008-03-17, 11:56 AM

Yeah, but after 5 minutes of idling, is started smoking more and more... I dunno if that's normal for the first time the motor heats up or something, but it was like some spy-hunter smokescreen action. Then we killed it once the water started coming out the overflow line that I didn't have a catch can on

.

Either way, it really did startup easily. We disabled the fuel pumps, and cranked it for a few minutes to get oil pressure on the gauge, and for a bit longer to really ensure there was oil through the turbo and in all the galleys (the dipstick went from about a quarter over F before cranking, to abotu half a quart under F after priming). Then we renabled the fuel pumps, tweaked the hydra for the larger 800cc injectors with lower latency, and changed the closed loop RPMs so the car would idle in closed loop using the wideband for AFRs. Then on the first cranking it nearly started... on the second cranking it fired easily and went right to cold idle (1400 rpm). After a few minutes it was down to the 1000 rpm idle target, and after a little bit of hunting it was at 14.7 AFR.

EGTs ran up to about 1200F then settled down at around 1000F-1100F at stoich. When the water temps came up to 60F-70F the smoke started getting worse from the motor and over 70F water temp the system started overflowing (it was filled to the brim before we started, so even the tiniest bit of heat in the water was bound to overflow). We turned it off then as we didn't want to miss a real water leak because there was water dripping from the overflow.

Anyone know if all that smoke (it looked pretty blue, i.e. like burning oil) is normal for a first-start? I figured there's a bunch of assembly lube that needs to burn off, and I know the piston rings aren't sealed, so I expect oil smoke. But how long should it take to clean up, and how bad should I expect it to be before the rings seat?

MPREZIV · 2008-03-17, 12:00 PM

Anytime there's oil/assy lube/anything on the engine block, or exhaust it'll smoke like a SOM-BISH when you first heat it up. I usually spray some WD-40 on engine parts that I have sitting around for a while, like while rebuilding a head and it's gotta sit overnight, just to keep things from getting shitty while exposed to whatever is in the air in the shop. A lot of places do this. If you didn't have any actual leaks causing your smoke, I'd be willing to bet it's just a mixture of any of these elements causing your smoke. Depending on what it is, it can take a while to burn off too...

2008-03-13, 11:36 AM	#256
JC Ask me about dubs! Real Name: JC Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Orange, CA Posts: 2,895 Car: 2013 Triumph Speed Triple R	I keep waiting for the post where Scott gives up and buys an STi. __________________ Actually, I am a rocket scientist.

2008-03-13, 03:57 PM	#261
knucklesplitter EJ205 Real Name: Matt Taylor Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cousin-Fck, Carolina Posts: 1,474 Wish in one hand and sht in the other...	S'more Cossy oil pan to header luv... Attached Thumbnails

2008-03-14, 07:51 AM	#263
100_Percent_Juice (40 percent vodka) Real Name: Joel Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 4,446 Car: 2004WRX Class: Baby-Hauler/GroceryGetter	^I read that you don't need to coat the stockers because they are so thick. __________________ "A power nap is when you sleep on someone who is weaker than you." - Dimitri Martin Last edited by 100_Percent_Juice; 2008-03-14 at 08:04 AM.

2008-03-14, 07:59 AM	#264
Kevin M EJ22T Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Reno Posts: 9,445 Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red Class: 19 FP	It's not to help the exhaust, it's to keep heat out of the engine bay. __________________ FWD is the new AWD

2008-03-14, 08:27 AM	#265
100_Percent_Juice (40 percent vodka) Real Name: Joel Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 4,446 Car: 2004WRX Class: Baby-Hauler/GroceryGetter	^yeah, I didn't say it was to help the exhaust. I have seen several people say that since its thick cast, that you would be throwing money away by coating it because the benefit would be small compared to coating a thin after market header. Again, this is what I Read. __________________ "A power nap is when you sleep on someone who is weaker than you." - Dimitri Martin

2008-03-13, 08:00 AM	#255
knucklesplitter EJ205 Real Name: Matt Taylor Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cousin-Fck, Carolina Posts: 1,474 Wish in one hand and sht in the other...	Scott, your cold-side IC pipe is at the welder right now. If he doesn't come thru with it today I have a spare Perrin pipe you could use to get the car started.

2008-03-14, 08:58 AM	#266
Dean Señor Cheap Bastarde Real Name: Dean Join Date: May 2003 Location: $99 Tire Store Posts: 9,294 Car: $.04 STI Class: Fast,Cheap & Reliable=STI Deal, did somebody say Deal? Oh, Dean, yeah that's me.	As long as you are stock, put the heat shields back on after cutting strategic holes/slots for sensors and cables. they should be as good if not better than any coating. __________________ I am a Commodore PET --- Now get off my lawn you kids...

2008-03-17, 08:36 AM	#268
knucklesplitter EJ205 Real Name: Matt Taylor Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Cousin-Fck, Carolina Posts: 1,474 Wish in one hand and sht in the other...	Scott's car started on the first try yesterday.

2008-03-17, 08:50 AM	#269
cody Candy Mountain Real Name: Cody Join Date: May 2005 Location: Californication Posts: 7,751 Car: 03 Pussy Wagon, now with more pink! Class: TESP OMG Internet!	:headbang: __________________ Slow and low, that is the tempo.

2008-03-17, 10:21 AM	#270
SteveM EJ22 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Reno Posts: 148 Car: RED WRX Class: Spectator Mangia la mia polvere	Nice!

2008-03-17, 11:16 AM	#271
MPREZIV Token Real Name: Le Stig Afrique? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: sitting next to a big yellow box Posts: 3,589 Car: 2001 Impreza 2.5 RS Class: 05 TDSP No, I won't work on your car. F your car*	Fucking SWEET!!! __________________ "...these condoms have a topical anesthetic to reduce sensitivity, so you can last longer. What a paradox. You can't feel a thing, but you can f*ck for HOURS..."

2008-03-17, 11:36 AM	#272
WRX06TR EJ251 Real Name: Nick P Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Reno Posts: 881 Car: 2005 STi Class: MadtyteTunerBro! Back to the studio!	Awesome...can't wait to see it running!

2008-03-17, 11:37 AM	#273
Kevin M EJ22T Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Reno Posts: 9,445 Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red Class: 19 FP	Now that deserves a __________________ FWD is the new AWD

2008-03-17, 11:56 AM	#274
sperry The Doink Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 20,335 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata Class: PDX/TT-6 The way out is through	Yeah, but after 5 minutes of idling, is started smoking more and more... I dunno if that's normal for the first time the motor heats up or something, but it was like some spy-hunter smokescreen action. Then we killed it once the water started coming out the overflow line that I didn't have a catch can on . Either way, it really did startup easily. We disabled the fuel pumps, and cranked it for a few minutes to get oil pressure on the gauge, and for a bit longer to really ensure there was oil through the turbo and in all the galleys (the dipstick went from about a quarter over F before cranking, to abotu half a quart under F after priming). Then we renabled the fuel pumps, tweaked the hydra for the larger 800cc injectors with lower latency, and changed the closed loop RPMs so the car would idle in closed loop using the wideband for AFRs. Then on the first cranking it nearly started... on the second cranking it fired easily and went right to cold idle (1400 rpm). After a few minutes it was down to the 1000 rpm idle target, and after a little bit of hunting it was at 14.7 AFR. EGTs ran up to about 1200F then settled down at around 1000F-1100F at stoich. When the water temps came up to 60F-70F the smoke started getting worse from the motor and over 70F water temp the system started overflowing (it was filled to the brim before we started, so even the tiniest bit of heat in the water was bound to overflow). We turned it off then as we didn't want to miss a real water leak because there was water dripping from the overflow. Anyone know if all that smoke (it looked pretty blue, i.e. like burning oil) is normal for a first-start? I figured there's a bunch of assembly lube that needs to burn off, and I know the piston rings aren't sealed, so I expect oil smoke. But how long should it take to clean up, and how bad should I expect it to be before the rings seat? __________________ Is you is, or is you ain't, my con-stit-u-ints?

2008-03-17, 12:00 PM	#275
MPREZIV Token Real Name: Le Stig Afrique? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: sitting next to a big yellow box Posts: 3,589 Car: 2001 Impreza 2.5 RS Class: 05 TDSP No, I won't work on your car. F your car*	Anytime there's oil/assy lube/anything on the engine block, or exhaust it'll smoke like a SOM-BISH when you first heat it up. I usually spray some WD-40 on engine parts that I have sitting around for a while, like while rebuilding a head and it's gotta sit overnight, just to keep things from getting shitty while exposed to whatever is in the air in the shop. A lot of places do this. If you didn't have any actual leaks causing your smoke, I'd be willing to bet it's just a mixture of any of these elements causing your smoke. Depending on what it is, it can take a while to burn off too... __________________ "...these condoms have a topical anesthetic to reduce sensitivity, so you can last longer. What a paradox. You can't feel a thing, but you can f*ck for HOURS..."

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