Yet Another Brake Pad Thread.

[Dean]

Don't get me wrong, swapping pads can be done succesfully, even between brands, but at some point, you are likey to mess up and end up with uneven pad build up, and have to turn them theroghly and start over.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Read the rest of their tech papers, and you will know everything there is to know about brakes...

[cody]

Why would I RTFM when I can just post my questions in all of your threads Dean?

[Dean]

Originally Posted by cody

Why would I RTFM when I can just post my questions in all of your threads Dean?

Because some random thread <100, Scott, Kevin, Matt, Austin, and anyone else we like all agree to spread bad information about something that anyone that can use google could easily show was flat out wrong just to F with lazy asshat n00bs.

[dknv]

Originally Posted by Dean

Read the rest of their tech papers, and you will know everything there is to know about brakes...

I got alot out of the Sperry/Austin/Dean/Gary brake thread. http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1063

[cody]

Originally Posted by Dean

Don't get me wrong, swapping pads can be done succesfully, even between brands, but at some point, you are likey to mess up and end up with uneven pad build up, and have to turn them theroghly and start over.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Read the rest of their tech papers, and you will know everything there is to know about brakes...

This was somthing I didn't know:

Depending upon the friction compound, easy use of the brakes for an extended period may lead to the removal of the transfer layer on the discs by the abrasive action of the pads. When we are going to exercise a car that has seen easy brake use for a while, a partial re-bedding process will prevent uneven pick up.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by cody

This was somthing I didn't know:

Look at the WRX rotors, or anyone else running race compounds on the street. The rotors will likely look like raw metal, not the familiar blue/grey of pad compound. I am always very careful duing my first run session to be very smooth and even in braking and let them cool significantly before parking.

[cody]

So a "partial rebedding" isn't usually needed on street pads?

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by Dean

While I have been unable to find anything but heresay, it is my understanding that Carbotech uses Hawk materials in their pads. I think HPS= Bocat, HP+ = Panther, etc... Buy whichever is cheaper if you want tat compound.

As far as compatibility, I wouldn't count on it.

I think you are right about Carbotech=Hawk dean, but I didn't remember for certain. It is not hearsay though- Carbotech is currently up to their neck in litigation over this.

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by cody

I'm doubtful too. Valhakar is the only one I've ever seen saying that. I checked Carbotech's FAQ section and didn't see anything about it.

That's because Carbotech's marketing department probably doesn't want to use something that got them sued as a selling point.

[cody]

Wait, why are they getting sued?

[Kevin M]

I can't give details (because I don't have them due to the ongoing litigation) but basically they're not playing by the rules. IMO they are way too shady to get my business. Anyways, can you spot the fanboi in this thread?

Originally Posted by Valhalar

Well simly put, go fast = noise and dust. PERIOD. Hawks try and be the all around good pad, but on the track they fade faster than an American Idol single.

Carbotech has 3 pad types, all 3 are interchangable and will remove compound buildup for each other pad type. No other braking company has pads that will do that. So you can run Panther Plus on the track and leave tons of material on the rotor, swap out to the quiet Bobcats, and they will clean off the deposits left by the much harder pad.

[cody]

LOL, yah, that's pretty funny if the Hawk and Carbotech pads are the same.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by cody

So a "partial rebedding" isn't usually needed on street pads?

Correct, though I always reccomend people take a full cool down lap, and use little to no brakes, and use minimal brake if any when parking in th paddock. Blocks of wood, and wheel chocks are great, and if they are still hot, move the car a foot or two every couple minutes until you can put your tongue on the rotors without burning.

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by Dean

...until you can put your tongue on the rotors without burning.

Ah, the Nick method.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by Dean

Correct, though I always reccomend people take a full cool down lap, and use little to no brakes, and use minimal brake if any when parking in th paddock. Blocks of wood, and wheel chocks are great, and if they are still hot, move the car a foot or two every couple minutes until you can put your tongue on the rotors without burning.

About the blocks of wood comment, It's really not a huge deal to lightly engage the parking brake, since it's a seperate mechanical drum brake under the rear rotors. You won't get pad deposits from using the e-brake.

[cody]

^^^That's what I thought. If I ever did have to come to a complete stop while the brakes were super hot, I'd use the ebrake for the last mph or two if feasible. I know pads are always touching the rotors, but it can't hurt.

[Dean]

Originally Posted by sperry

About the blocks of wood comment, It's really not a huge deal to lightly engage the parking brake, since it's a seperate mechanical drum brake under the rear rotors. You won't get pad deposits from using the e-brake.

You can probably get away with it on a Subaru with the seperate parking brake, but as a general rule, blocks of wood are the way to go.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by Dean

You can probably get away with it on a Subaru with the seperate parking brake, but as a general rule, blocks of wood are the way to go.

Well, I certainly wouldn't recommend jamming the e-brake on w/ 100ft/lbs of torque on the lever, since the rear rotors will be hot... but the shoes aren't on the rotor surface, and usually they're nowhere near as hot as the fronts, and that's where you're really trying to avoid the deposits. It'd take a ton of heat in the rear rotors for the e-brake shoes to fuse to the rotors or warp things out of balance.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Originally Posted by Dean

While I have been unable to find anything but heresay, it is my understanding that Carbotech uses Hawk materials in their pads. I think HPS= Bocat, HP+ = Panther, etc... Buy whichever is cheaper if you want tat compound.

More hearsay, but some of the SM guys are saying it's Cobalt that has been re-using Hawk compounds, not Carbotech.

Originally Posted by Jason Deramo

Did you guys know that Cobalt doesn't make their own compounds? They buy all of Hawks older and outdated stuff!! Bet you guys didn't know that. That is a little inside info from one of my good friends that works at Hawk Sorry, I can't disclose his name. I know Cobalt tries to make it sound like they do, but they don't. It's just fancy marketing.

http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/u...1;t=002035;p=2

[Kevin M]

Carbotech definitely does (or possibly it's used to- they may be big enough now to actually have their own manufacturing) use Hawk pucks, but I would be surprised if they're the only ones who do it. I was considering getting a set of Cobalt pads too. Guess I'll stick to teh HPS next time.

[WRX06TR]

Resurrecting a thread from the dead...

Has anybody ran Yellowstuff pads on the street? I have f/r brand new yellowstuff pads and I am a little worried to run them on the street when it gets really cold outside...any advice is welcome.

[cody]

I can tell you that Alex runs them year round on his STi and so does Nick on his Saabaru. They're the only pad I know of that can go from a cold Tahoe Winter morning to the track and work well in all conditions. The only downside is that Alex has seen some uneven pad deposits lead to pulsing that a light resurfacing fixes.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by cody

I can tell you that Alex runs them year round on his STi and so does Nick on his Saabaru. They're the only pad I know of that can go from a cold Tahoe Winter morning to the track and work well in all conditions. The only downside is that Alex has seen some uneven pad deposits lead to pulsing that a light resurfacing fixes.

That sounds about right for what I've heard. The yellows will get you by in the cold, but you're going to see accelerated rotor wear and deposits, and not get the same braking performance they'd give you when hot.

Personally, I'd just run the Greenstuffs, and keep a set of yellows on the workbench for trackdays.

[Dean]

I thought Alex was on greens (for his STI). Not sure what Nick is on.

I only use yellows, but my car is mostly a dedicated track beast. I would not recommend yellows for a car that is mostly driven on the street. Greens are a better choice for that.

[cody]

Originally Posted by Dean

I thought Alex was on greens (for his STI). Not sure what Nick is on.

I only use yellows, but my car is mostly a dedicated track beast. I would not recommend yellows for a car that is mostly driven on the street. Greens are a better choice for that.

Neh. I just had this conversation with Nick with the Saabaru and Alex this weekend. They both love the yellows.